I'm planning to set up two short walls in the basement that won't be in contact with the exterior walls. Should I use regular wood studs, or should I go with metal studs instead?
Also, I'm considering laying a parquet floor. What should I use underneath, against the concrete floor? I've checked the entire space and currently have no moisture penetration anywhere in the floor. The ceiling height isn't very high, so the less I need to build up the height, the better.
Also, I'm considering laying a parquet floor. What should I use underneath, against the concrete floor? I've checked the entire space and currently have no moisture penetration anywhere in the floor. The ceiling height isn't very high, so the less I need to build up the height, the better.
As long as the rule does not touch the concrete floor either, it should be fine; you need something inorganic in between.
With the floor, it's very difficult to know. If you have bare concrete today, the floor is as ventilated as it can get. The fact that you don't have moisture penetration doesn't mean much. Have you tried taping a piece of plastic to the floor to see if any moisture gets trapped?
At the very least, I would lay some platon-like mat, which takes up less than a centimeter.
With the floor, it's very difficult to know. If you have bare concrete today, the floor is as ventilated as it can get. The fact that you don't have moisture penetration doesn't mean much. Have you tried taping a piece of plastic to the floor to see if any moisture gets trapped?
At the very least, I would lay some platon-like mat, which takes up less than a centimeter.
I have checked with plastic over the entire area that will become a room, and for two years moving boxes have stood directly on the floor, which show no signs of moisture, but as I said, it's still early days. 
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· Stockholms
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Bauhaus etc. have a plastic with foam that provides ventilation called ProVent.
In order from the bottom: Soundproofing net, Platon mat. Cellplast (if space), chipboard, foam, then the floor. Ventilated east to it. Make sure you don't get so-called general joints (joint of multiple materials in the same place.)
Good luck!
Good luck!
Many parquet floors, 14mm and thicker, can be installed on Platon without particle board. You should check the manufacturer's instructions.
ProVent is interesting; it's also said that there is air circulation created by walking on Platon floors. Whether this is sufficient or negligible is debated. An advantage of Platon is that with some planning, mechanical ventilation can be added afterward if problems persist.
But with these concrete floors, it's difficult to know what is the right solution, and it's easy to spend quite a bit of money on things that aren't necessary.
ProVent is interesting; it's also said that there is air circulation created by walking on Platon floors. Whether this is sufficient or negligible is debated. An advantage of Platon is that with some planning, mechanical ventilation can be added afterward if problems persist.
But with these concrete floors, it's difficult to know what is the right solution, and it's easy to spend quite a bit of money on things that aren't necessary.
Think again before you take that route. How will you attach the studs, for example?
Byggmax has a Platon copy for 25/m2...
http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/byggva...und/21201/fuktisolermatta#Product_information
Byggmax has a Platon copy for 25/m2...
http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/byggva...und/21201/fuktisolermatta#Product_information
Metal studs? For the walls, you mean? Since I already have all the walls in place in my basement, I haven't thought much along those lines. If you look in Platon's instructions:
http://www.isola.se/assets/Sweden/Brochure/PlatonGolv2013web.pdf on page 11, it seems the stud lies above the mat and is thus moisture-insulated. Exactly how the stud is attached to the floor is not specified. There are special nail plates that fit in the bumps on the mat; if you drill through the stud down into the concrete floor, plug and screw the stud with those kinds of plates in between, it should be fine.
Note, I now see that you haven't written anything about how old your house is, I have assumed it's an older house with an uninsulated slab and without underfloor heating. If you have an insulated slab, it's a different situation, and if there's underfloor heating, you absolutely must not drill into the slab.
http://www.isola.se/assets/Sweden/Brochure/PlatonGolv2013web.pdf on page 11, it seems the stud lies above the mat and is thus moisture-insulated. Exactly how the stud is attached to the floor is not specified. There are special nail plates that fit in the bumps on the mat; if you drill through the stud down into the concrete floor, plug and screw the stud with those kinds of plates in between, it should be fine.
Note, I now see that you haven't written anything about how old your house is, I have assumed it's an older house with an uninsulated slab and without underfloor heating. If you have an insulated slab, it's a different situation, and if there's underfloor heating, you absolutely must not drill into the slab.
Is it possible to prepare the framework, with base paper between the horizontal rule and the concrete floor, and then lay Platon on the remaining floor, or does the Platon sheet also have to be under the floor rule?
You should be able to level before you lay the floor. There are small support surfaces when it comes to a few walls. It's not a whole wooden floor. I spontaneously think it's difficult to get it stable if you place it on top of the Platon floor.
I used the "platonmatta" from Byggmax myself and am satisfied with it. And just like pelle242 described, there are floors thick enough that chipboard is not needed. I had a lot of space and chose chipboard + a cheaper Ikea floor that I can replace when the basement in a few years stops being a hockerink....
Good luck.
I used the "platonmatta" from Byggmax myself and am satisfied with it. And just like pelle242 described, there are floors thick enough that chipboard is not needed. I had a lot of space and chose chipboard + a cheaper Ikea floor that I can replace when the basement in a few years stops being a hockerink....
Good luck.
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