The plan is to insulate from the outside. Not fully thought through but something like:
1. remove the outer panel/paper.
2. extend by 90mm.
3. add insulation.
4. apply paper/outer panel.
But first, I need to finish these small tasks and get new fresh ROT money
, I don't think I can handle such a job myself.
1. remove the outer panel/paper.
2. extend by 90mm.
3. add insulation.
4. apply paper/outer panel.
But first, I need to finish these small tasks and get new fresh ROT money
, I don't think I can handle such a job myself.go for a västkustskiva. much better.
http://guiden.rockwool.se/produkter/byggisolering/vaestkustskiva
http://www.isover.se/tilläggsisoler...ch+golv/isolera+yttervägg+utifrån+-+ett+lager
http://guiden.rockwool.se/produkter/byggisolering/vaestkustskiva
http://www.isover.se/tilläggsisoler...ch+golv/isolera+yttervägg+utifrån+-+ett+lager
Yes, exactly. How do you manage around doors and windows? You don't want thicker walls than before. I have the same dilemma with Treetex versus gypsum as many others here. And I also can't figure out what would be best despite all the wise advice. I also want a smooth wall with gypsum on my paneled walls...Nimajneb said:
Replacing the texmex with plywood/chipboard/OSB + renovation plasterboard should work reasonably well, considering the door and window frames. But what a job...
As several have written, I myself have put 6mm plasterboard on tretex with tongue-and-groove wood under the tretex. You have to be a bit careful when screwing, but I haven't experienced "your" problems. Are the walls really that crooked/"holey"/uneven, you mean?
As several have written, I myself have put 6mm plasterboard on tretex with tongue-and-groove wood under the tretex. You have to be a bit careful when screwing, but I haven't experienced "your" problems. Are the walls really that crooked/"holey"/uneven, you mean?
I guess I'll have to choose one of the rooms as a test subject simply. Do you think it's better to try to put 6mm gypsum on the Treetex than to tear down all the Treetex and put osb+gypsum? What a dilemma... Solid walls are great, but it's not entirely problem-free
I added external insulation to my previous house and therefore only wanted nice surface finishes on the walls (covered with tretex) on the inside.
I screwed (with screws that went through the tretex and into the tongue and groove behind) up 13mm gypsum and it turned out great.
I avoid working with renovation gypsum because they are flimsy and harder to screw.
I screwed (with screws that went through the tretex and into the tongue and groove behind) up 13mm gypsum and it turned out great.
I avoid working with renovation gypsum because they are flimsy and harder to screw.
In my house from the 1920s, the interior walls are made of tongue-and-groove plank with trätex or masonite on top. The exterior walls consist of trätex-rough planking-paper-tongue-and-groove-plank-panel-insulation-panel from the inside. The last layer of insulation and paneling is not original.
God knows if it's done according to all the rules, but the following has worked excellently for me:
-Interior wall with trätex, somewhat flat: Renovation plasterboard directly on. Be a bit careful when screwing...
-Interior wall with masonite, uneven trätex wall: Tear down masonite/trätex, find what's causing the unevenness, usually it's just a single plank that has warped. Chisel it down with a carpenter's axe so it's in line with the rest or replace it. Install the thinnest "studs" possible at 60 cm intervals to get a straight wall. I've often split these studs from a wider piece. On top of that, plasterboard. This doesn't add much thickness compared to the old wall, but it's a lot of work.
-Exterior wall (regardless of old surface material): Tear down to the tongue-and-groove planks. Frame with horizontal studs and vertical blocking at 60 cm intervals. Insulate. Finish with OSB and plasterboard. With 45mm studs, this builds approximately the same as the old wall. Where possible, I've used 70 or 95 studs and corresponding insulation. This method may sound complicated, but it has surprisingly gone smoothly to use.
Why horizontal studs then? Well, nothing in my house holds the tongue-and-groove planks together sideways more than the tongue and the horizontal rough planking on the inside. The tongue is in fair condition on some planks. I want to remove the interior rough planking to get a thinner wall. So I frame with horizontal studs to tie the wall together lengthwise and insert vertical blocking to have something to joint the plasterboard on.
God knows if it's done according to all the rules, but the following has worked excellently for me:
-Interior wall with trätex, somewhat flat: Renovation plasterboard directly on. Be a bit careful when screwing...
-Interior wall with masonite, uneven trätex wall: Tear down masonite/trätex, find what's causing the unevenness, usually it's just a single plank that has warped. Chisel it down with a carpenter's axe so it's in line with the rest or replace it. Install the thinnest "studs" possible at 60 cm intervals to get a straight wall. I've often split these studs from a wider piece. On top of that, plasterboard. This doesn't add much thickness compared to the old wall, but it's a lot of work.
-Exterior wall (regardless of old surface material): Tear down to the tongue-and-groove planks. Frame with horizontal studs and vertical blocking at 60 cm intervals. Insulate. Finish with OSB and plasterboard. With 45mm studs, this builds approximately the same as the old wall. Where possible, I've used 70 or 95 studs and corresponding insulation. This method may sound complicated, but it has surprisingly gone smoothly to use.
Why horizontal studs then? Well, nothing in my house holds the tongue-and-groove planks together sideways more than the tongue and the horizontal rough planking on the inside. The tongue is in fair condition on some planks. I want to remove the interior rough planking to get a thinner wall. So I frame with horizontal studs to tie the wall together lengthwise and insert vertical blocking to have something to joint the plasterboard on.
I found my tretex to be too soft for 13mm plasterboard.
However, I installed renovation plasterboard a few weekends ago (had never worked with it before and thought it was just thin "regular" plasterboard) in a room with Masonite on the walls (plasterboard directly on Masonite). It worked very well!!! Renovation plasterboard is much more flexible (it has fibers running lengthwise, which you can see when cutting).
On the other hand, I had a section of plastered wall (chimney breast) where it was difficult to attach the plasterboard; the screws adhered very inconsistently, so I glued, screwed, and hammered in screws. Seems to hold in the end...
So I think renovation plasterboard works better directly on tretex since regular plasterboard becomes too brittle and can't accommodate as much movement in the substrate.
Overall, it's very nice with renovation plasterboard where you can handle 6x2700x900mm sheets without too much hassle. It's okay that they're soft since they're so tough and don't break.
If I were doing the room today, I would probably try 6mm plasterboard and live with uneven walls. It actually looks nice... And it's convenient to just put on 6mm thick trim as a reveal (spacer) so you can use regular casings around windows and doors.
Regarding additional insulation, I will probably follow the tip from SBH with Västkustskivor. My exterior walls are from inside out plasterboard-tretex-panel-paper-air gap-paper-standing plank 5cm-windproofing-outer panel-batten. So I thought about removing the batten, outer panel, and windproofing, and installing around 80mm Västkustskiva, then putting on new paneling and batten again.
However, I installed renovation plasterboard a few weekends ago (had never worked with it before and thought it was just thin "regular" plasterboard) in a room with Masonite on the walls (plasterboard directly on Masonite). It worked very well!!! Renovation plasterboard is much more flexible (it has fibers running lengthwise, which you can see when cutting).
On the other hand, I had a section of plastered wall (chimney breast) where it was difficult to attach the plasterboard; the screws adhered very inconsistently, so I glued, screwed, and hammered in screws. Seems to hold in the end...
So I think renovation plasterboard works better directly on tretex since regular plasterboard becomes too brittle and can't accommodate as much movement in the substrate.
Overall, it's very nice with renovation plasterboard where you can handle 6x2700x900mm sheets without too much hassle. It's okay that they're soft since they're so tough and don't break.
If I were doing the room today, I would probably try 6mm plasterboard and live with uneven walls. It actually looks nice... And it's convenient to just put on 6mm thick trim as a reveal (spacer) so you can use regular casings around windows and doors.
Regarding additional insulation, I will probably follow the tip from SBH with Västkustskivor. My exterior walls are from inside out plasterboard-tretex-panel-paper-air gap-paper-standing plank 5cm-windproofing-outer panel-batten. So I thought about removing the batten, outer panel, and windproofing, and installing around 80mm Västkustskiva, then putting on new paneling and batten again.
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