Anyone with experience mounting large MDF panels on interior walls with hidden fasteners?
The idea is to mount MDF panels veneered with oak along a roughly 20m long interior wall with OSB board behind. The MDF panels will be 2800x2000x16.
We plan to fasten the panels with brads at the top against the ceiling and at the bottom against the floor through the OSB board on studs, where moldings will cover any visible nails. To secure the attachment to the wall, we will also use setting glue/strong glue/construction adhesive.
Will the panels stay in place? We don't want them to come loose and harm someone as they weigh a lot, so we would appreciate feedback or tips on solutions.
The idea is to mount MDF panels veneered with oak along a roughly 20m long interior wall with OSB board behind. The MDF panels will be 2800x2000x16.
We plan to fasten the panels with brads at the top against the ceiling and at the bottom against the floor through the OSB board on studs, where moldings will cover any visible nails. To secure the attachment to the wall, we will also use setting glue/strong glue/construction adhesive.
Will the panels stay in place? We don't want them to come loose and harm someone as they weigh a lot, so we would appreciate feedback or tips on solutions.
The joints will probably not be easy to make look nice... I hope the OSB boards will be perfectly straight and that the MDF boards are thick enough to align nicely with each other...
Is it safe to use a brad nailer along the "side" or tongue of the MDF board? Isn't there a risk that it might crack?
Is it safe to use a brad nailer along the "side" or tongue of the MDF board? Isn't there a risk that it might crack?
That sounds very stylish!I Talltomten said:
Wouldn't it look nice to skip the ceiling molding and baseboard? There are profiles that create a distance from the floor which make it very striking.
I can almost guarantee you can mount with just adhesive. Clean/dust-free surfaces and an adhesive suited for the purpose, and you'll have to tear down the wall if you want them off. Essve has good adhesives.
I would have loved to mount with only glue, but they weigh sooooo much? They are almost 6 sqm and 16 thick... is that safe?
We are going to have slats on the ceiling with the same material, so the idea is that a ceiling slat starts against the MDF board and can then hide any visible pin fastenings... the baseboard, however, I would have liked to avoid, but since some walls are painted gypsum that is too short to skip the baseboard, we probably have to keep them.
We are going to have slats on the ceiling with the same material, so the idea is that a ceiling slat starts against the MDF board and can then hide any visible pin fastenings... the baseboard, however, I would have liked to avoid, but since some walls are painted gypsum that is too short to skip the baseboard, we probably have to keep them.
It will be good.I Talltomten said:
But the board is standing on the floor, isn't it?
What can the board weigh? 30 kg. The glue just holds it against the wall. And if you're going to have a slat ceiling, then the slats will lock the board as well.
Have been advised to leave a small gap between the concrete floor and MDF. Don't know why? The board weighs 60-70kg... approximately 12kg per sqm for MDF if I understand correctly.
Did something similar with MDF with ash veneer, but slightly narrower panels at 110 cm. Only glued. However, I ran a 2 mm 45-degree chamfer milling on the edges and used biscuits between the boards to align them and with the chamfering to catch any minor shifts.
Keep in mind that wood moves, even though MDF and OSB are relatively stable, there is a risk that joints will move with the seasons, especially with that width.
Keep in mind that wood moves, even though MDF and OSB are relatively stable, there is a risk that joints will move with the seasons, especially with that width.
One more thing - MDF rarely (if ever?) has nice factory-made edges. They're often a bit convex, so you probably need to re-cut them—and it's not that easy to cut straight over such a distance. Even the slightest deviation and the boards won't line up, so you'll need to figure out a way to hide it.I Talltomten said:
Sounds like a good solution to avoid the risk with the joints with the 45-degree chamfering! I'll take that with me.
Anyone have good tips for a strong and fast-curing glue for the purpose? 
What is the difference between construction adhesive, heavy-duty glue, and mounting adhesive?
What is the difference between construction adhesive, heavy-duty glue, and mounting adhesive?I Talltomten said:
Casco extremefix is very good for such installations. I hardly think you need to worry about them coming loose, the problem is usually the opposite. But you need to trim the boards, and ideally insert some biscuits in the joints. Even better if you can rout an entire groove with a 4mm slot cutter using a hand router, and place a strip of 4mm MDF in the joint.
Yes I'll give them a ring! Thanks for the tip!
Where did you get the boards? I can't find them in any hardware store and it's a bit unfortunate to order online since I'd like to take a look at them before buying.