Renovator
· Västra Götaland
· 1 117 posts
I have yet to encounter such an incredibly varied spectrum in construction and housing as how meticulous people are with moldings.
Some install moldings without mitering.
Others plane/whittle the moldings into perfection and have never used latex caulk.
Some screw up the moldings with visible, regular, wood screws.
Others latex caulk everything, both mitered edges and inner and outer edges on, for example, trim to make it 100% gap-free.
Some install corner blocks.
How meticulous are you? Do you re-cut a molding that creates a gap or do you use latex caulk? Or do you not care and live with the gap?
Some install moldings without mitering.
Others plane/whittle the moldings into perfection and have never used latex caulk.
Some screw up the moldings with visible, regular, wood screws.
Others latex caulk everything, both mitered edges and inner and outer edges on, for example, trim to make it 100% gap-free.
Some install corner blocks.
How meticulous are you? Do you re-cut a molding that creates a gap or do you use latex caulk? Or do you not care and live with the gap?
It would never occur to me to have a gap on a floor/ceiling trim. I'd be irritated by it forever, so if there is a mistake, it's just a matter of doing it over and getting it right. =) So bring out the miter saw when you're installing trims and moldings!
I won't be satisfied until it's completely gap-free!
Recipe:
I only put up moldings, trims, and baseboards in the winter after they've been inside and drying for at least a month (yes, they usually warp a little).
I saw with a few mm margin, try the piece, and then gradually trim away bits with the miter saw. The last iterations are about tenths of a mm.
Recipe:
I only put up moldings, trims, and baseboards in the winter after they've been inside and drying for at least a month (yes, they usually warp a little).
I saw with a few mm margin, try the piece, and then gradually trim away bits with the miter saw. The last iterations are about tenths of a mm.
I guess I'll represent the middle ground and say: It depends on where it is... moldings that are in the line of sight and well-used rooms I spend quite a bit of time on... others I miter, use latex sealant, and apply list white paint... where I can, I use mounting glue, otherwise the brad nailer... and occasionally thin screws with pre-drilling if it’s trim or similar...
Everything depends on time, location, and what other things need to be prioritized. You can't be called a "perfectionist" if you want to complete an entire house before the kids move out... one "perfect" room and 2 unfinished rooms are worse, in my world, than 3 perfectly fine finished rooms.
Everything depends on time, location, and what other things need to be prioritized. You can't be called a "perfectionist" if you want to complete an entire house before the kids move out... one "perfect" room and 2 unfinished rooms are worse, in my world, than 3 perfectly fine finished rooms.
Nice that you focus on what you think is important... myself, I have a rough style and in that way, it's not as precise... but I use latex if needed...
I'm quite particular when it comes to miters, but as a last resort, I'd rather use latex than stand and whittle by hand at the end. I don't have unlimited time for that.
Inner edge of the casing against the door or window, I've sometimes used latex if there's been a noticeable gap, as I've experienced it, but usually not. It's okay to have a slight gap. I'm naturally quite meticulous, but I've learned. In an old wooden house where no angles are right and things also move, you make yourself unhappy if you're too particular.
I mostly attach molding with brads (hammer-driven, I don't have a nailer) and then paint the final coat in place. I don’t like visible screws in moldings, so if I need to screw (it might be necessary in certain situations for practical reasons), I usually fill the head before the final coat.
Inner edge of the casing against the door or window, I've sometimes used latex if there's been a noticeable gap, as I've experienced it, but usually not. It's okay to have a slight gap. I'm naturally quite meticulous, but I've learned. In an old wooden house where no angles are right and things also move, you make yourself unhappy if you're too particular.
I mostly attach molding with brads (hammer-driven, I don't have a nailer) and then paint the final coat in place. I don’t like visible screws in moldings, so if I need to screw (it might be necessary in certain situations for practical reasons), I usually fill the head before the final coat.
Avoid lists as much as possible. Refuse! Expensive, troublesome, and boring.
Unfortunately, sometimes I have to use lists and those rooms aren't finished yet. The lists will probably be done when we move. :-S
But a little on topic now, I miter and fill all misses with latex. Nail up with white brads, which turn black as soon as the hammer comes within 2 cm =( latex on that too =)
Unfortunately, sometimes I have to use lists and those rooms aren't finished yet. The lists will probably be done when we move. :-S
But a little on topic now, I miter and fill all misses with latex. Nail up with white brads, which turn black as soon as the hammer comes within 2 cm =( latex on that too =)
Renovator
· Västra Götaland
· 1 117 posts
Hehe, I do that too.. unfortunately, not many moldings are perfectly mitered, or rather, the cutting is usually quite okay, but if the walls differ by a few mm and aren't completely square, then the moldings either fit perfectly against each other but have gaps against the walls, or you press the moldings against the walls and then they crack at the miter joint instead.misingen said:
It partly depends on how much time you have too. If I had just one small room to renovate, without any stress, I would probably work a bit more on the groundwork, moldings, etc. When it's a larger area and you "want to be finished" at some point, the mistake tolerance also increases.
