Load-bearing beam that is bent.

[Ripper500]

I'm guessing they removed the wall and put up a 75x75 beam against the ceiling, which was way too weak. It looks like it's clad with a couple of boards on each side.

I would probably have put support on both sides, removed the rubbish, and cut open the ceiling if this hasn't been done. Then you could easily install a 90x225 glulam beam after raising the ceiling to the correct level.

You wouldn't lose any ceiling height at the passage given that the junk that's there today probably builds almost as much, and the ceiling height increases if you raise the ceiling.

[image]

Thanks, it sounds like it was done exactly as you described.
The question is whether it is considered a big risk or minimal risk.

I would actually prefer to avoid addressing this, at least in the next year or so.
But you don't want to risk a collapse even if it's been this way for the last 5-6 years.

 

[GK100]

You can completely ignore any structural issues; it is rather the aesthetics and possible disturbing deflection etc. that determine if you want to improve it, and as mentioned, it is quite easily arranged.

 

[Ripper500]

You can completely disregard structural integrity issues; it's more the aesthetics and potential annoying sway, etc., that determine whether you want to make it better, and as mentioned, it's quite simple to arrange.

How do you know there is no risk concerning structural integrity? Can you base it on the fact that nothing has happened over the years that have passed? Or is there something else that forms the basis for this? (Mostly curious to feel reassured)

Considering fixing it up in the future with a proper beam, actually.
However, I want to figure out how to do it with as little impact as possible.
Maybe it's possible to tension up a beam underneath and also replace the posts?

 

[GK100]

Personally, I mostly look at the slight deflection on the visible construction and also how the different supports that have been made compare to an originally framed wall. And of course, that it has been this way for a long time without any negative changes. Furthermore, in these cases, dimensioning is mostly meant to ensure sufficiently low elasticity; outright dangerous failures are far from these limits.

 

[Lutte]

Now I'm just brainstorming a bit, but if you stamp and press it up with the help of those and then glue screw on more to the existing one and reassemble the braces and release the stamp.

 

[Oldboy]

Is there a corresponding deflection in the floor above?
Is there any flex to speak of in the floor above?

 

[Ripper500]

Is there a corresponding sagging in the floor above? Is there any noticeable sagging in the floor above?

No, I wouldn't say so. Nothing I can see with the eye.

 

[Ripper500]

Is there a corresponding deflection in the floor above?
Is there any deflection to speak of in the floor above?

The floor deflects throughout the upper floor. But no difference directly above this specific construction.
I believe that the flooring boards deflect between the beams, and that's what you feel.

 

[Ripper500]

Thank you all for the answers! I feel calmer knowing it's probably not a problem. Now I just need to figure out how to add a beam underneath without causing damage around it (i.e., how to support it while inserting a beam).

The second thought is - there is no building permit for this, and it would likely be required. Does it fall under due diligence when buying?

I was aware of this solution at the time of purchase but needed housing immediately, so there was no time for further investigation or questioning.

 

[SwiftD]

Thank you all for the replies!
I feel calmer knowing that it's probably not dangerous. Now it remains to figure out how to add a beam underneath without causing damage around it (i.e., how to support it when you want to insert a beam)

The second thought is - there is no building permit for this, and it would likely be required.
Does this fall under the duty of investigation when buying?

I was aware of this solution at the purchase but needed housing immediately, so there was no time for further investigation or questions.

You don't place the props against the beam but against the different studs in the floor structure, which allows you to tear out and install new before removing the props.

 

[Ripper500]

You don't place the props against the beam but against the different joists in the flooring, which means you can remove and install new ones before you remove the props.

This means I have to tear down the ceiling, which I want to avoid since it is new.

 

[SwiftD]

It means I have to tear down the inner ceiling, which I want to avoid since it's new.

You could cut out a strip on each side and when you're done, insert fitting pieces and spackle with a 10cm wide fiberglass tape. If done right and if you take the time to try to match the stippling on the paint, it can be quite difficult to see the intervention afterwards.

 

[hempularen]

It all comes down to opinion and taste, whether you try to reinforce the current construction without causing damage, and the problem it creates with low clearance under the beam. Or if you take the hassle of cutting up a small part of the roof and restore it.

I actually believe that the supports you have there should make it hold even if the actual "beam" is undersized, as the span between the different support points is very short. But it's likely that the supporting structure is not correctly executed, so it has shifted. Perhaps it's more there for appearance's sake.

 

[Lutte]

I don't think you have to tear it down; instead, you can nail two T's made of 45x195, cover the top of the T with, for example, sleeping mat, then shore up on both sides of the beam.

However, you should hit the battens that hold the inner ceiling, which in turn sits on the trusses with the shoring; otherwise, you will break the ceiling.

 

[SwiftD]

Tror inte du är tvungen att riva utan du kan spika två T av 45x195, klä ovansidan av T'et med exempelvis liggunderlag sen stämpar du på båda sidor av balken.

Du bör dock pricka in läkten som håller innertaket som i sin tur sitter på åsarna med stämpningen annars kommer du trycka sönder taket

Är det inte risk att han pressar upp regeln mellan två läkt och knäcker gipset då?