I am renovating a room that will become our future kitchen. There are six beams, and I have used a laser to determine that the floor slopes towards the middle of the room and there are deviations between the different beams ranging from 1-15mm.
After spending a number of hours here on the forum to see others' solutions, I decided to screw-glue 45x70 on the side of the existing beams. Now to the problem shown in the picture below.
The photo shows the beam that is the worst. All six exhibit the same phenomenon; they have dried and deformed.
The stud that I have screw-glued follows the beam, and the floorboard will not sit so well on it, it feels like? Right now, I have done 1/4 of the floor, and I am planning to plane my screwed-on stud straight. Are there better solutions?
The plan is to lay some grooved floorboards for underfloor heating and a part with regular floorboards where we will not have underfloor heating. On top, the idea is to lay a laminate floor.
I'm in the process of renovating a room that will become our future kitchen. There are six beams, and I've determined with a laser that the floor slopes towards the middle of the room and there are discrepancies between the different beams of between 1-15mm.
After spending several hours here on the forum to see others' solutions, I decided to screw-glue 45x70 on the side of the existing beams. Now to the problem that is visible in the picture below.
[image]
The photo shows the beam that is worst. All six exhibit the same phenomenon; they have dried and deformed.
The stud that I have screw-glued follows the beam, and the floorboard doesn't seem to lie well on it, I feel. Right now, I've done 1/4 of the floor, and I'm planning to plane my screwed-on stud straight. Are there better solutions?
The plan is to lay some slotted floorboard for underfloor heating and some regular floorboard where we won't have underfloor heating. On top, we plan to lay laminate flooring.
Thankful for tips!
[image]
Thread lift, but:
Did it turn out well with planing? Or are there better ways when the beams have twisted?
Regarding dimensions, it seems there are many options when leveling floor joists. 45x95 seems to be a common suggestion. 28x120 is another option. Stud on one or both sides of the existing beam is an alternative.
Is there any form of consensus?
Thread lift, but:
Did it turn out well with planing? Or are there better methods when the beams have twisted?
Regarding dimensions, there seem to be many options for aligning joists. 45x95 seems to be a common suggestion. 28x120 is another option. Placing a stud on one or both sides of the existing beam is an alternative.
Is there any form of consensus?
I planed all my studs to the correct angle before installation. I did it on my jointer in the garage, which also made them perfectly straight. I naturally understand that not everyone has access to such machines.
I planed all my studs to the correct angle before assembly. I did it on my jointer in the garage, which also made them perfectly straight. Naturally, I understand that not everyone has access to such machines.
It turned out great.
[image]
Looks wonderfully flat. Are those 45x90 studs?
If I understand correctly, your method relies on the existing beam having the same slope/twist across the span?
It doesn't work when the beams twist like a screw?
Aligning the new studs so they are completely straight sounds like a dream.
Can it be achieved with a table saw and alignment jig like on YouTube?
I ended up planing all the studs that were crooked. Taped a small mini spirit level at the top of a simple Biltema electric planer and it worked really well!
It wasn't entirely easy with the heights as you had to set the stud a bit too high and then plane it down to the right level, but I am satisfied with the final result.
I planed all my studs to the correct angle before assembly. I did it on my jointer in the garage, that way I also got them perfectly straight. Naturally, I understand that not everyone has access to such machines.
It turned out great.
[image]
Assuming you have a larger model jointer in the garage?
Assuming you have a larger jointer model in the garage?
I would like to have such a smaller jointer in the garage, like [link]
The support surface is 77cm, too small to straighten 3-4 meter long studs I suppose?
Yes, it's quite large. A Hammer A3-41 with a 180cm long jointer table, I also have extension tables so the total length of the jointer table becomes 260cm.
77cm is probably a bit too small to straighten 3-4 meter long studs, yes.
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niclas_e said:
