Joist rule outside the plinths

[holmberg87]

Partition walls work well with leca or wood

 

[minisorkis]

Partition wall works well with leca or wood

I meant underlay, not partition wall =)

 

[minisorkis]

I think that sounds good, but you might have to lift the entire side of the house at the same time. So make sure to have some jacks on hand just in case.
A rotary hammer works well to remove the old foundation if a sledgehammer doesn't do the trick.

An alternative would be to cast a footing and then build up with something like leca. Then you wouldn't need to cast so high

Hmmm, that might be something. But then I'll be mixing foundations and leca, I don't really care about the aesthetics since I'm likely going to build a deck around the entire house soon. Is there anything negative about that?
Is it difficult to cast a footing?

 

[holmberg87]

A foundation is the simplest; make a frame about 40x40 and backfill around it. Secure it firmly and fill it with concrete, ensuring that the frame is level.

The fact that it's mixed is probably not a problem at all; the main thing is that the contact with the rock is stable and anchored.

 

[Patrik Lidstedt]

Even though casting concrete footings is relatively easy, you can make it even easier.

Buy some proper fittings or perforated strips that allow you to anchor the load-bearing beam in the footing and prevent it from moving further in the direction it is heading. Make precise markings and document with pictures how they are positioned this year.
Then "inspect" next year and make sure they haven't moved further!

 

[minisorkis]

Even though casting footings is relatively easy, you can make it even easier.

Buy some proper brackets or strap hinges that allow you to anchor the beam to the footing and prevent it from shifting further in the direction it's moving towards. Make careful markings and document with photos how they are positioned this year.
Then "inspect" next year and ensure they haven't moved further!

Thank you for the answer and suggestion!

Do you mean I should, for example, attach a beam to the potentially sliding footing with something like carriage bolts (?) and then attach the same beam similarly to the presumably stable row of footings in the middle to lock the footing in place?

 

[Patrik Lidstedt]

Thanks for the answer and suggestion!

Do you mean that I should, for example, attach a board to the possibly sliding plinth with, for instance, carriage bolts (?) and then attach the same board in the same way to the presumably stable row of plinths in the middle to lock the plinth in place?

Anything that prevents the bearer from falling off entirely feels like a solution.

Personally, I would have used some form of heavy-duty construction bracket and coarse/suitable fastener and only attached the plinth to the beam above, which is usually done but, unfortunately, not here!

 

[holmberg87]

It is not much of a solution but rather a temporary measure to prevent the bärlina from falling off the plinth.

 

[Patrik Lidstedt]

Of course, but if you want to avoid a whole lot of work, it's definitely more convenient!

And the cabin has been standing for a great many years, so it will probably remain even without action!

 

[olotor]

Agree with Patrik, if the kåken has stood for a number of years, it's likely to remain standing for a few more years. It sounds a bit too advanced to lift the house.

 

[KnockOnWood]

Alternative measure (suggestion from an amateur):

If it is possible to lift the cabin, e.g. by a decimeter.
Get I-beams corresponding to the width of the cabin.
Lift it with jacks, one section at a time, and place the beam over the row of plinths, and set the cabin down again.
Possibly anchor the beam to the plinths as well for safety.

But I can imagine that the sills have been placed far out on the edge for aesthetic reasons.
I.e. to prevent the "ugly" plinths from sticking out beyond the facade.

 

[holmberg87]

Can agree that it will probably remain as it already is. But the question was how to fix it and there are no shortcuts other than new foundations that are properly anchored. If it wasn't built like that from the start, which seems unlikely.

But lifting a small cottage is no problem. My neighbor has raised his house 1 meter as the ground sloped towards the house. Simple jacks and a gradually built-up foundation.

In this case, it's enough to lift just enough to free the foundation or simply make a new one next to the old one and not lift at all.

 

[Patrik Lidstedt]

Yes, it's clear that the only real solution is to replace it, while just fixing up the existing one is more like sweeping the problems under the rug.
But it sounded a bit like the house might eventually be replaced, so one can take a chance and go the "easy" route for as long as it lasts!..if you dare!

 

[minisorkis]

Thanks for all the answers!

Now I heard from an acquaintance who knows the people we bought from that he vaguely remembers he and the previous owner, only one owner before us, walking around and thinking that the pillar foundation was poorly made from the start, i.e., that it has looked ABOUT like this since 1980 when the house was put up. However, I suspect that some movement has occurred because I assume that where the beam slipped off the pillar didn't happen immediately.

Yes, the dream is, as mentioned, to build an entirely new house, but it feels very luxurious at the moment. I have other things to spend money on =) that are prioritized.

For the time being, I'm mostly considering letting the existing pillars stay for a while, supporting the house in a few weeks at well-chosen spots with some pallets and garden slabs. Then in the spring, I'll do as holmberg87 suggested earlier, i.e., cast a ledge in various places and then use lea blocks. That solution felt solid and simple =)

KnockOnWood's solution is also appealing if it turns out that the pillars actually HOLD but are a bit misplaced.

 

[minisorkis]

Alternative measure (suggestion from an amateur):

If it's possible to lift the cabin, for example, a decimeter.
Get I-beams corresponding to the cabin's width.
Lift it with jacks, one section at a time, and place the beam over the row of plinths, then set the cabin down again.
Possibly anchor the beam to the plinths as well for safety's sake.

But I can imagine that the sills have been placed far out on the edge for aesthetic reasons.
That is, so the "ugly" plinths wouldn't stick out beyond the facade.

Thank you! I checked quickly on Byggmax but didn't find any I-beams, where can I buy them?

It also sounds like a slightly more expensive solution, would I need maybe 8-9 pieces of 5-meter beams then? Don't they cost a few thousand each?