Stumbled upon this link.
This sounds exciting, what do you all building experts think? Does it work? Is it good?

http://isotimber.se/
 
It's fun that new things are coming in construction. But I don't think this product will revolutionize building. Poor insulation capability is probably the biggest disadvantage I see. Also, "three men, two workdays" isn't terribly fast for raising the frame of a 100m² house. That's about the same time it takes to erect a conventional stud frame.

The frame itself is quite a small part of the entire house construction. It's difficult to save that much time on just that step.
 
andersmc said:
Poor insulation capacity is probably the biggest disadvantage I see.
U-value of 0.11 for isotimber corresponds to regular MU so I think it's wrong to say it has poor insulation capacity. The advantage is probably that it is a diffusion-open construction.

I spoke with the building inspector where the presented object is being constructed and they mostly thought it was interesting with new technology.
 
It is not at all the same U-value as mineral wool. A 300mm thick wall built as a conventional stud frame, insulated with mineral wool, has a U-value of 0.12 W/m² °C. A 300 mm thick wall made of ISO-timber has a U-value of 0.20 W/m² °C. In my opinion, that is a big difference.

And I also don't understand what the advantage is of it being diffusion-open. It just makes you risk getting even worse insulation, due to condensation water or even worse, ice, inside the wall.
 
andersmc said:
It's not at all the same U-value as mineral wool. A 300mm thick wall built as a conventional stud frame, insulated with mineral wool, has a U-value of 0.12 W/m² °C. A 300mm thick wall made of ISO-timber has a U-value of 0.20 W/m² °C. I think that is a big difference.
Now, I'm no expert on insulation, just checked the producer's website, so that's where the information comes from.

Isotimber 300e95 U-value 0.11 (total thickness 395mm)
Paroc with climate panel 240 + 2*70 U-value 0.112 (total thickness 380mm)

I got stuck on the Paroc alternative since I just looked at this construction for our upcoming build.

For me, it's quite the same but maybe I'm missing something?
 
Allow me to somewhat doubt their isolation data!
I can't find anywhere how they produced their values.
 
S
why?
Very roughly, one can say that air insulates. And there are many channels in the logs.
Then whether the numbers are correct is another question.
 
They provide U-values for different blocks without support from any institute like SP. Considering their product is completely new, they should have a certificate.
Then they boast that wooden blocks are diffusion-open, only to mention in the next section the need to frame inside for electricity, etc. - and that the gap should be filled with insulation. Still no vapor barrier?

Whether these blocks are sensible largely depends on the truthfulness of the manufacturer's information, and of course, on the price. Has anyone received price information?
 
I was considering using isotimber for my extension on the log house. I received this information from them. I've given up on the idea because I think it will be too expensive, but I believe in the concept.
The building blocks are available in 3 different widths,
Width x height x length
100 x 123 x 2350 mm 900:- / sqm wall surface
200 x 123 x 2350 mm 1800:-
300 x 123 x 2350 mm 2200:-
In addition to the building blocks, it also includes sill, top plate, and plywood on the outside and inside. More information is available on the website, www.isotimber.se

If you reach 100 sqm of wall surface, we offer free shipping and assembly.
 
borichard said:
Width x height x length
100 x 123 x 2350 mm 900:- / sqm wall surface
200 x 123 x 2350 mm 1800:-
300 x 123 x 2350 mm 2200:-
Suspected that was the case, especially considering the processing of the timber. Autoclaved aerated concrete, also a diffusion-open material, additionally non-organic, about 700 SEK/m2 for thickness 300-365 mm. Game over.
 
andersmc said:
Then "three men, two working days" is not terribly fast for erecting the frame of a 100m² house. That's about the time needed to erect a conventional stud frame.
Does it go that fast to frame, insulate, install plastic, and for example an OSB board on the inside?

I have no experience with this at all, but I'm curious!
 
anaitis said:
Allow me to somewhat doubt their isolation data! I can't find anywhere how they have come up with their values.
Glad you brought it up. I had the same thought but didn't want to seem whiny. Just instinctively, their values seem very good, and as mentioned, one would certainly like to know exactly how they arrived at them.
SBH said:
why?
very roughly, one can say that air insulates. and there are many channels in the logs. then if the numbers are correct, that's another question
There are no real plans, the only thing available are the product images. But if you look at them, you see that a very large part of the blocks is solid wood.

Air insulates if it's in very narrow gaps. Very narrow means parts of a mm. Air in wider gaps insulates worse; much wider, it doesn't insulate at all. If the gaps in ISO-timber are made by a saw blade, they should be at least 3 mm wide. That's too much to get really good insulation.
 
Rappala said:
Does it go that fast to frame, insulate, apply plastic, and for example an OSB board on the inside?

I have no experience at all with this, but I'm curious!
Erecting a frame structure goes quickly. It's not the step that dominates a house construction.

Then it can be difficult to make a completely fair comparison. It naturally takes some time to mount OSB on a frame structure. But remember that the ISO wall is not complete when it is erected. You still need to continue with framing and insulation on the inside to have somewhere to run electricity etc.
 
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