Outdoors, I think it is a precarious construction from a moisture and maintenance perspective. In terms of strength, it is negligible. The difference in rigidity between steel and wood is at least a factor of 20.
If you reverse the direction of construction and build everything at once, you can significantly reduce the dimensions. I have calculated 90x360 for the glulam beams and 45x95 for the nail studs. Material-wise, about 1000 SEK cheaper.
Wires in a cross or something similar are needed to stabilize the corners.
What does it mean ... do I need to go up in size then? Can a HEA 200 handle the load?
No, you don't need to go up in size. Snow load and useful load will not reach their maximum value simultaneously.
Mmatsca2m said:
What do you think about taking an IPE200 and bolting a pressed 45x170 or 45x195 which can be planed to fit. This should contribute a bit to the durability too? I think it will be easier to attach beams, etc., to the embedded pressed beams.
I think it looks like a sensible solution. It doesn't add anything strength-wise, but it will make it easier to mount joist hangers, etc.
If you reverse the direction of the construction and build everything at once, you can significantly reduce the dimensions. I have calculated with 90x360 for the laminated beams and 45x95 for the nail battens. Material-wise, about 1000 kr cheaper.
[image]
Wires in a cross formation or something similar are needed to stabilize the corners.
Do the corners need to be braced even if you lay decking, for example? It almost becomes like a "board."
If you're interested in using steel beams and you want the construction to withstand anything, there are plenty of HEB260 in 20m lengths available near Alingsås that I believe you can get at a very favorable price.
Send a PM if it would be of interest.
If you reverse the direction of the construction and build everything at once, you can significantly reduce the dimensions. I have calculated with 90x360 for the glued laminated beams and 45x95 for the nail studs. In terms of materials, about 1000 SEK cheaper. [image]
Cross-bracing or something similar is needed to stabilize the corners.
I have considered this type of construction but unfortunately, I am not allowed to build the balcony in one go due to construction bureaucracy rules. The footprint becomes too large.
Moreover, I want to avoid a column in the middle since I will be using the balcony as a carport and the column would be in the way because I can't drive straight under the carport but need to turn in from the right.
Here is a very simple sketch. The green area is High rhododendron hedge. I have written car on the black rectangles to illustrate where they should be placed.
If you're interested in using a steel beam and you want the construction to withstand anything, there are lots of HEB260 in 20m lengths nearby Alingsås that I believe you can get for a very favorable price. Send a PM if that would be of interest
It is a creative challenge to come up with a good solution. I'll sleep on it. Is it only the inner 2.2 meters that should be a balcony? HEB 260 are hefty things that can handle a lot, but weigh almost 100 kg per meter.
It's a creative challenge to come up with a good solution. I need to sleep on it. Is it only the inner 2.2 meters that are supposed to be the balcony? HEB 260 are massive pieces that can handle a lot, but they weigh almost 100 kg per meter.
It should be a balcony over the entire length, but I need to build the first 2.2 meters according to the building permit and then an additional 3 meters as an Attefall extension.
Underneath, I will place TRP to create a roof over the cars.
One alternative I'm considering is to build a frame and lay out TRP for lower edge reinforcement and cast a balcony, but that would probably be very expensive and complicated.
Actually, the concept is flawed because you can't build the best solution from the start. The fact that it is supposed to be built in two stages, with the length and width measurements as well as access possibilities (if you don't want to encroach on the Rhododendrons), complicates the whole thing. If you were only building the inner part, you might consider replacing the outer long beam with a truss construction that also acts as a fence. Similar to a railway bridge. You could also replace the outer beam with two three-hinged frames, but the height might not be sufficient for that. One might also consider adding two diagonal supporting beams (for the inner part) to help reduce the load on the outer beam so it can be made more slender. You might also consider whether the construction can be made narrower. Simply reducing from 7 to 6 meters makes a big difference.
