I have a garage consisting of a cast uninsulated slab on the ground, lecawalls, approximately 22 thick, and an insulated roof with uninsulated space above.
Half of the building consists of a garage and the other half of a workshop and gym.
I would like to maintain the gym area at about 10-15 degrees Celsius year-round.
I'm thinking of dividing between the workshop and the gym with an insulated drywall. The outer walls I plan to frame and insulate, and then drywall. On the inside, of course.
What is the right technique to use here?
I saw on the Isover website that you should insulate directly against the outer wall to make it airtight and then frame and insulate between the studs. Then vapor barrier and drywall. Does that sound like a good plan?
Do you think I can manage with 45-studs, so I don't lose too much floor space?
Half of the building consists of a garage and the other half of a workshop and gym.
I would like to maintain the gym area at about 10-15 degrees Celsius year-round.
I'm thinking of dividing between the workshop and the gym with an insulated drywall. The outer walls I plan to frame and insulate, and then drywall. On the inside, of course.
What is the right technique to use here?
I saw on the Isover website that you should insulate directly against the outer wall to make it airtight and then frame and insulate between the studs. Then vapor barrier and drywall. Does that sound like a good plan?
Do you think I can manage with 45-studs, so I don't lose too much floor space?
Your 22 cm thick lecablock walls (is the measurement including plaster?) have an insulation value equivalent to about 40 mm of mineral wool if it is standard lecablock. Honestly, I don't think the efforts and expenses for additional insulation, which would correspond to 85 mm of mineral wool, are justified. It's better and more effective to allocate resources to, for example, additionally insulating the roof.
Then I get a bit puzzled when you describe Isover's model. I tried to find a page that describes additional insulation of a lecablock wall on Isover's website without success. Can you provide the link to this page?
Then I get a bit puzzled when you describe Isover's model. I tried to find a page that describes additional insulation of a lecablock wall on Isover's website without success. Can you provide the link to this page?
http://www.isover.se/isolera-yttervagg-inifranJ justusandersson said:
OK. Pay particular attention to the following in Isovers' instructions:
"If you have exterior walls with thick homogeneous material layers such as solid brick or lightweight concrete walls or plank or log walls, you need to consider summer condensation. Sun-exposed exterior walls can have problems with summer condensation if you use traditional plastic sheeting when insulating internally. The variable vapor barrier ISOVER Vario® Xtra has a unique ability to reduce the summer condensation problem."
Therefore, use a variable vapor barrier and not plastic sheeting. Also note that with Isovers' method, you cannot make thinner insulation than about 75 mm.
"If you have exterior walls with thick homogeneous material layers such as solid brick or lightweight concrete walls or plank or log walls, you need to consider summer condensation. Sun-exposed exterior walls can have problems with summer condensation if you use traditional plastic sheeting when insulating internally. The variable vapor barrier ISOVER Vario® Xtra has a unique ability to reduce the summer condensation problem."
Therefore, use a variable vapor barrier and not plastic sheeting. Also note that with Isovers' method, you cannot make thinner insulation than about 75 mm.
The roof, or the ceiling structure, is well insulated and then there is an uninsulated space before the outer roof comes. So I don't think it's needed there.
But you mean that heating won't become cheaper if I insulate the outer walls?
But you mean that heating won't become cheaper if I insulate the outer walls?
When it comes to thermal insulation, one must have a holistic view. The only thing that is truly interesting from an energy efficiency standpoint is the building's overall U-value. What you would gain by adding insulation to the walls can just as well be achieved with increased roof insulation. I mean that you gain very little from insulating the walls, at the expense of reduced floor space, inconvenience, and cost.