I am going to completely renovate an old log house that will have vertical paneling and additional insulation on the gables (only to achieve the correct level compared to the foundation and roof as previously). I have ordered windows (Tanums wooden windows) which will arrive in 5 weeks. I will not use any metal cladding but will do everything around the windows in wood.
The window openings will need some adjustments here and there, partly due to different sizes but also due to some rot damage.
I plan to do as much as possible before the windows arrive... I have changed facades and windows before but have never been completely satisfied with the details around the window, feeling the need to redo them, etc., and I don’t want to be in that position in 5 weeks and be forced to tear down boards that are incorrectly thought out... I hate it when the frame screw misses everything it can screw into, for instance... this has happened before and leads to a lot of extra work....
I plan to install the windows in line with the facade, so no "recessed" windows.
My thoughts are as follows, where I have some questions as I go along.... (I have googled and checked träguiden.se...):
1. For all window openings that don’t match, I will install a framing square. I align the outer edge of the framing square with what??? The same level as the finished facade or in line with the nailing battens or in line with the outer wall????. If the hole pattern in the wall matches, I may build onto the timber depending on what you say about the previous question..
2. Install wind barrier paper over the entire wall, directly over the window openings, which I will then cut open. For this to work, the framing for the windows should be level with the wall... that is, before the nailing battens.... this risks having the frame screw dangerously close to the edge or even "in the air..." or in a seam...
3. Install the panel so the last board against the window ends x number of cm from the window opening but close enough for a 12.5 cm trim board to overlap both the window and the panel board.
4. Here's a tricky part... The window sill above the window: I will bevel this so it has a suitable slope pressed against a nailing strip. I notch into the last cladding board 1 cm so the window sill meets the panel board under the cover strip and the window sill then extends a few cm beyond the cover strip, see figure. Is this a moisture-proof solution?
4. Yes, it is an okay solution as long as the windowsill extends beyond the window casings. Edit: Don't forget to make the attachment of the overlying drip cap/sacrificial board/windowsill so that it is easily replaceable without dismantling the trim, casings, and other facade boards.
Windows flush with the facade means that the window casings sit on top of the window frame and the underlying panel boards, i.e. at the same level as the vertical battens. Thus, the window (window frame) should align with the outer edge of the lower facade board. So if you only have information on the distance the frame holes are from the outer edge of the window, you will know where to place solid wood.
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