Need printed boards measuring 185x28 mm and I'm considering if it's possible to rip/plane 195x45mm to get the correct dimensions. Do you know if hardware stores offer that service or should I turn to a joinery shop? Feel free to provide recommendations for joineries in the vicinity of Huddinge.
 
Isn't it possible to glue two pieces of 28x120 and then rip?
 
No, I don't think it will last.
 
Most often, the poison is only in the outermost millimeters. If you shave it off, you might as well (and much more environmentally friendly) use unprinted.
 
What will it be used for? Gluing wood together along the grain becomes extremely strong.
 
hantverkare1 said:
What is it going to be used for? Gluing wood along the grain becomes incredibly strong.
It's going to be placed under the rails for a pool cover. What do you mean by "along the grain"? I want to glue together 2 pieces of 28x95 so that they form a 28x190 mm, i.e., glue them side by side. Will it be strong?
 
Fredric1 said:
It should be placed under rails for a pool cover. What do you mean by "along the fibers"? I want to glue together 2 pieces of 28x95 so that they form a 28x190 mm, i.e., glue them side by side. Will it be strong?
Along the wood's fibers. Yes, it will be extremely strong. Choose a polyurethane glue if you are using treated timber!
I would strongly consider using regular timber, as you can likely find the right dimensions directly, without gluing.
 
Then it's along the fibers, it becomes very strong. Some claim that the joint becomes the strongest part of the board, I'm unsure but it does become strong.
 
Ok, thanks so much for the reply. Should work to glue and clamp together with some clamps, right?
 
Fredric1 said:
It should be under the rails for a pool cover. What do you mean by "along the fibers"? I want to glue together 2 pieces of 28x95 so that they form a 28x190 mm, i.e., glue them side by side. Will it be strong?
Yes, in your case it will be along the fibers; gluing end grain to end grain doesn't work so well.

But how important is it that they are joined together, aren't they hidden by the rail?
 
The problem is that the track is split lengthwise and I want a solid base as possible to avoid movement. Additionally, there will be half as many anchor plugs going into the pool's concrete wall.
 
Consider regular timber, if you can find a bit better quality, it's probably better than treated wood which is usually of quite low quality, although that's a point since the poison penetrates the wood better if it's sapwood... Perhaps you can find larch in the right dimension? Or slow-grown pine...
 
Does the wood you list have the same good rot protection as pressure-treated lumber?
 
Fredric1 said:
Does the wood you mention have as good rot protection as pressure-treated wood?
No, but most likely good enough. If you're not going to use it in water or in the ground, it will probably last for many years anyway!
 
There will be quite a bit of water splash as this is at the top of a pool wall, so I think the best possible rot protection should be prioritized. NTR A would have been preferable, but it's only available on studs, 45x145 and up?
 
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