But in the summer, the natural ventilation is also zero flow when the indoor and outdoor temperatures are the same. So, you must at least have mechanical exhaust ventilation in a house today, with fresh air supply in designated rooms. Otherwise, the CO2 levels will rise significantly beyond healthy levels, along with humidity and spores, etc.
 
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BirgitS
Ninhow Allamo Olsson said:
Do you know if mechanical ventilation of the basement floor can affect the natural ventilation? I've read something about there being drafts.
Not really, but don't confuse it feeling drafty (if that's what the second sentence means) with natural ventilation, i.e., air entering through supply vents and leaving through exhaust vents without the help of any fans.
 
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H håbbe1961 said:
But in the summer, natural ventilation is also zero flow since the indoor and outdoor temperatures are the same. So you must have at least mechanical exhaust in a house today with air supply in designated rooms. The CO2 level shoots up significantly otherwise, far beyond healthy levels, then the humidity with spores, etc.
I understand, what I'm afraid of is adding air from the walls and floor in the basement and accidentally creating problems. But if I understand you correctly, you must ensure that the air supply is sufficient, in other words, that we are not sending too much air out. I'm wondering how to do that correctly, what values to look at, etc. You mentioned the Rh value; I've read a bit about it, and one should aim to be between 40 - 60%. But is that a sufficient measure?
 
One might consider installing a floating raised floor on top of floor plates with ventilated skirting. Without a fan. A fan is usually used if there is really severe moisture.
 
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Ulltand Ulltand said:
One may consider laying a floating raised floor on floor platon with ventilated baseboards. Without a fan. Fans are usually used when there is really severe moisture.
Where will the air be drawn out? So you mean that the ventilated baseboards should handle both incoming and outgoing air?
 
Isn't it the indoor air that is sucked down under the floor and then out into the open? Then it's important to have good heat that binds more moisture, at least in the beginning. 40-60 is over the year, so summer can see it go higher.
 
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Ninhow Allamo Olsson said:
Where is the air drawn out? Do you mean that ventilated baseboards should handle both incoming and outgoing air?
Well, the idea is more that there is an open airway in the ventilated baseboards so that moisture from the slab can evaporate out there without coming into contact with any biological material. The floor membrane is designed so that there is a certain air movement when you walk on the floor, but I think that is unimportant and more marketing.

It's important to clean the slab thoroughly when the floor is removed. Then treat it with Boracol, which is a potent long-acting fungicide. Lay out the floor membrane with a fold. Lay out the floor joists and insulation loosely on the membrane and leave a gap around it of about 10 mm. Screw the new floor into the joists. Install the ventilated baseboard.

I built my own ventilated baseboard as it was quite expensive.
 
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Ulltand Ulltand said:
Well, the idea is more that there is an open airway in the ventilated baseboards so that moisture from the slab can evaporate out there without coming into contact with any biological material. The actual floor mat is constructed so that there is some air movement when you walk on the floor, but I think that is unimportant and more of marketing.

The important thing is to clean the slab thoroughly when the floor is gone. Then treat with Boracol, which is a potent long-term fungicide. Lay out the floor mat with upturn. Lay out floor joists and insulation. Screw down the new floor. Install the ventilated baseboard.

I built my own ventilated baseboard as it was quite expensive.
Ulltand Ulltand said:
Well, the idea is more that there is an open airway in the ventilated baseboards so that moisture from the slab can evaporate out there without coming into contact with any biological material. The actual floor mat is constructed so that there is some air movement when you walk on the floor, but I think that is unimportant and more of marketing.

The important thing is to clean the slab thoroughly when the floor is gone. Then treat with Boracol, which is a potent long-term fungicide. Lay out the floor mat with upturn. Lay out floor joists and insulation loosely on the mat and leave a gap around about 10 mm. Screw down the new floor into the joists. Install the ventilated baseboard.

I built my own ventilated baseboard as it was quite expensive.
I probably shouldn't attempt to make one myself, but do you have any tips for one? Now I understand what you mean, the Boracol tip was excellent, we hadn't thought of that.
 
Ninhow Allamo Olsson said:
I'm not sure I should make one myself, but do you have any tips on one? I understand how you mean now, the Boracol tip was excellent, we hadn't thought of that.
I attached a regular board, about 8 cm, at a distance from the wall using supports made from cut VP pipes, where the screw goes through the VP pipe and into the wall. The gap between the trim and the wall should be covered with a fine mesh so that dust doesn't accumulate over time and clog it.
 
Ninhow Allamo Olsson said:
Thinking something like this: [link]
No, this is a mechanically ventilated floor. You don't need this unless there are bigger problems.
 
Did you do the same with the walls? That's where I am torn, it might be that the walls don't need ventilation either and that it was simply built wrong. With trä studs directly against the concrete.
 
Ninhow Allamo Olsson said:
Did you do the same with the walls? That's where I become conflicted, it could be that the walls don't need to be aired out either and that it was just built incorrectly. With wooden studs directly against the concrete.
Do you have wooden studs on the walls internally?
 
Ulltand Ulltand said:
Do you have wooden studs on the walls inside?
Yes, we recently bought the house.
 
Ninhow Allamo Olsson said:
Yes, we recently bought the house.
Golvplaton on the wall should work if you think a little. But first check that there is a problem with moisture in the wall studs so you don't overwork.
 
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