Hi,
we are just in the process of completing the OSB boards in the new build (finally) and are now starting to think about the next step - the drywall layer.
If I remember correctly, the drywall joints should be placed above the windows + doors to avoid those cracks along the seams.
But now, if we have already done so with the OSB boards, do we really need to do the same with the drywall as well? Or can we place a drywall panel on each side of the window/door and then use a separate piece that covers the whole top and/or bottom?
In any case, I understand that the seams should NOT be in the same place...
Thanks in advance
we are just in the process of completing the OSB boards in the new build (finally) and are now starting to think about the next step - the drywall layer.
If I remember correctly, the drywall joints should be placed above the windows + doors to avoid those cracks along the seams.
But now, if we have already done so with the OSB boards, do we really need to do the same with the drywall as well? Or can we place a drywall panel on each side of the window/door and then use a separate piece that covers the whole top and/or bottom?
In any case, I understand that the seams should NOT be in the same place...
Thanks in advance
No, I understand. The question was whether you can position the drywall however you want if you've been careful with the panel joints on the osb layer.
For example, placing a full sheet of drywall on one side of the window, another on the other side, and then a suitably sized piece above and another below. This results in less waste.
Talked to a friend yesterday, and he said this works great.
With overlapping joints, then...
For example, placing a full sheet of drywall on one side of the window, another on the other side, and then a suitably sized piece above and another below. This results in less waste.
Talked to a friend yesterday, and he said this works great.
With overlapping joints, then...
You can do that, according to gyproc you should then take metal strips that you screw to both boards at c 200 so the boards move together without the seams cracking. OSB should work just as well, I think. There's no industry approval for it but it should work fine, just screw tightly enough.
No, stop right there ...
You do not splice the drywall board over the vertical window or door frame. Read any installation instructions from a drywall manufacturer. (Gyproc, Knauf-Danogips, Norgips, etc.)
I've placed OSB almost any way. 1-3mm gap between the boards to allow for moisture movement. But preferably full boards against corners, so I can then start with edge-cut half drywall boards.
Then I have three rules for the drywall. Start with a cut edge in corners (which will then be acrylic sealed before wallpapering/painting) Overlapping seams between OSB and drywall, overlap at least 5-6 cm, but preferably more. No drywall seams flush with the vertical parts of window and door frames.
That's it.
OSB is screwed with 32mm chipboard screws (with a countersunk head). I screw drywall with 32mm drywall screws into the OSB. (but sometimes I've put in some 41mm screws where there's a stud behind, completely unnecessary, but it feels good.)
You do not splice the drywall board over the vertical window or door frame. Read any installation instructions from a drywall manufacturer. (Gyproc, Knauf-Danogips, Norgips, etc.)
I've placed OSB almost any way. 1-3mm gap between the boards to allow for moisture movement. But preferably full boards against corners, so I can then start with edge-cut half drywall boards.
Then I have three rules for the drywall. Start with a cut edge in corners (which will then be acrylic sealed before wallpapering/painting) Overlapping seams between OSB and drywall, overlap at least 5-6 cm, but preferably more. No drywall seams flush with the vertical parts of window and door frames.
That's it.
OSB is screwed with 32mm chipboard screws (with a countersunk head). I screw drywall with 32mm drywall screws into the OSB. (but sometimes I've put in some 41mm screws where there's a stud behind, completely unnecessary, but it feels good.)
But place the joint somewhere above the doorway instead, and you can avoid the steel bands.
Maybe so.
But personally, I didn't dare to take a chance on it.
I followed the plasterboard manufacturers' instructions.
Also, OSB is more expensive than plasterboard, so if you want to get the most out of the material, it's OSB you should primarily be frugal with.
But personally, I didn't dare to take a chance on it.
I followed the plasterboard manufacturers' instructions.
Also, OSB is more expensive than plasterboard, so if you want to get the most out of the material, it's OSB you should primarily be frugal with.
I can't say anything other than you're absolutely right, and you've been consistent all along.matbanan said:
JOW's thought is about the same as mine.
But then OSB underneath might work just as well as metal strips. Now I feel like I might have tried it in a few places.
I can't really see why it wouldn't work. But if it doesn't, you probably can't complain to anyone and would simply have to redo it at your own expense.
I don't think Gyproc will agree to cover the cost even if you have steel bands. I also never splice over the door. It takes quite a few openings to avoid more waste. But it would be interesting if someone tries and comes back with the results.