Hello!
I bought a countertop from Ikea.
http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/60153716
I need to cut it a little but don't want the surface to be damaged.
So now the question is whether I should saw it from the laminate side or from the other side so the saw doesn't break the laminate?
I was thinking of using a circular saw.
Big thanks in advance
Fredrik
I bought a countertop from Ikea.
http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/60153716
I need to cut it a little but don't want the surface to be damaged.
So now the question is whether I should saw it from the laminate side or from the other side so the saw doesn't break the laminate?
I was thinking of using a circular saw.
Big thanks in advance
Fredrik
When I cut delicate items, I set my Makita plunge saw to the scoring mode = 3mm and carefully saw backwards, then saw through it.
Otherwise, it can be difficult to get clean cuts in laminate with a circular saw, unfortunately. What can help is to tape over where you need to cut, it usually results in less unsightly cuts.
Otherwise, it can be difficult to get clean cuts in laminate with a circular saw, unfortunately. What can help is to tape over where you need to cut, it usually results in less unsightly cuts.
Laminate can usually be sawed excellently with a good hand saw. You don't need to saw for very long, and you have time to notice if something starts to go wrong, which you don't have with the circular saw if something isn't right.
To achieve a clean cut with the circle, tape the top where the cut will go (a good masking tape usually suffices), then saw from the underside.
If you want additional assurance that the cut will be good, also acquire a laminate blade; with one on the circle, the cut is guaranteed to be good.
If you want additional assurance that the cut will be good, also acquire a laminate blade; with one on the circle, the cut is guaranteed to be good.
What kind of cut are you going to make?
I actually cut one of those today. I jigsawed the hole for the cooktop. In my case, it wasn't particularly important to avoid chipping, so I cut from the "laminate side" with a slightly shorter pendulum movement. Setting the pendulum at level 1 didn't cause any chips at all, and level 2 resulted in 1-2mm chipping despite the tape. If you want a completely chip-free cut, you have to saw from the other side if you're using a jigsaw, the same goes for the circular saw.
If you're going to cut the board lengthwise, I would saw from the underside and start at the edge, minimizing the risk of visible chipping. Use a straightedge to saw against instead of using the fence.
I actually cut one of those today. I jigsawed the hole for the cooktop. In my case, it wasn't particularly important to avoid chipping, so I cut from the "laminate side" with a slightly shorter pendulum movement. Setting the pendulum at level 1 didn't cause any chips at all, and level 2 resulted in 1-2mm chipping despite the tape. If you want a completely chip-free cut, you have to saw from the other side if you're using a jigsaw, the same goes for the circular saw.
If you're going to cut the board lengthwise, I would saw from the underside and start at the edge, minimizing the risk of visible chipping. Use a straightedge to saw against instead of using the fence.
Go to Beijer, Silvan where they have good sawing equipment, they charge 50.00 for that job.
30.00 if you bought the board there.
30.00 if you bought the board there.
I incredibly rarely chip when I use TS55 and guide rail from the top side...
Tape and a fresh blade make it easier, but I always cut out for hobs and trim countertops that way...
In TS's case, it was at the back edge, so if he's going to have tiles, he doesn't need to worry too much about a little chipping if he has to use the jigsaw...
Tape and a fresh blade make it easier, but I always cut out for hobs and trim countertops that way...
In TS's case, it was at the back edge, so if he's going to have tiles, he doesn't need to worry too much about a little chipping if he has to use the jigsaw...
Hello!
Thanks for all the tips!
I taped and sawed from the underside and used a backing I fastened tightly.
The result turned out really well.
The piece I sawed off got a bit frayed, which is probably due to a slightly damaged blade. But the side of the board turned out great!
Best regards,
Fredrik
Thanks for all the tips!
I taped and sawed from the underside and used a backing I fastened tightly.
The result turned out really well.
The piece I sawed off got a bit frayed, which is probably due to a slightly damaged blade. But the side of the board turned out great!
Best regards,
Fredrik
If you have a fresh guide rail as well (fresh rubber, that is), it works just fine from the top... However, I often tape anyway because it always helps a little and it's easier to mark where to saw... Caution should be taken if you saw from back to front so you don't damage the front edge's trim as you go through it...tallmilan said:
Well... I mean if you cut from the back edge of the board forward, you have to be careful when passing through the front edge strip...
I usually cut from the back edge up until I have like a couple of cm left and then I lift the saw and move it forward to cut straight down through the front edge strip instead... it turns out better and there's less risk of cracking it...
I usually cut from the back edge up until I have like a couple of cm left and then I lift the saw and move it forward to cut straight down through the front edge strip instead... it turns out better and there's less risk of cracking it...
If you need to saw off a bit of a countertop on its left side (if you're standing in front of it), it becomes difficult with support for the guide rail and then you're forced to saw from the back...MathiasS said:
