I think I get more answers on how to do things the more people I ask. So, I'm writing here.
Should there be a gap between the boards, or should they be flush against each other? When applying joint compound, should I use paper tape or mesh? And can I just embed the paper tape with joint compound, or does it need to be glued as the compound dries? It feels quite cumbersome.
When joining two panels, how deep should the chamfer be? I chamfered quite a bit with about a 4-5 mm gap that goes down into a V until they meet. But I've also been told that the chamfer should only be a few mm?
Hope someone can give some clarity on this
Should there be a gap between the boards, or should they be flush against each other? When applying joint compound, should I use paper tape or mesh? And can I just embed the paper tape with joint compound, or does it need to be glued as the compound dries? It feels quite cumbersome.
When joining two panels, how deep should the chamfer be? I chamfered quite a bit with about a 4-5 mm gap that goes down into a V until they meet. But I've also been told that the chamfer should only be a few mm?
Hope someone can give some clarity on this
The drywall sheets should be installed tightly against each other; there's already a recess where you should apply putty on the long sides. You can see/feel this if you run your hand over them. Then apply the putty (be fairly generous) and affix the paper tape into the wet putty. After that, apply more putty over the tape so that it is securely fastened (remove some excess so it is nice and smooth). Once this is dry, apply the next layer; I've learned that you shouldn't sand between these layers, just remove any lumps if present. This layer should cover what you've puttied and extend a little further out. Let it dry, and apply the final layer of fine putty, which should be even larger and very thin. Sand this thoroughly, and then brush down the walls/ceiling with a soft brush. Check with a lamp to see if it casts any shadows.
Regarding the tapering, I find it easiest to fill with putty if you have a wide taper that isn't too deep, but the guideline indicates 45 degrees, where they meet at a vee.
Regarding the tapering, I find it easiest to fill with putty if you have a wide taper that isn't too deep, but the guideline indicates 45 degrees, where they meet at a vee.
The "normal" method, i.e., the one that gypsum board and putty manufacturers show in their work descriptions and that professional painters use, is exactly as Nillinsim writes, that you embed the strip in putty.mekkarn said:
Gluing the strip, however - that's something that many people do when joining short ends that lack a recess and something some also do on long sides because they find it easier to succeed with than embedding in putty.
Personally, I have actually had more problems with glued strips than with embedded ones.
According to the latest issue of GDS magazine, there should be a gap (2mm) between the drywall panels to allow the joint compound to seep in, then you proceed as Nillinsim writes. However, they have been wrong before...
As Nillinsim wrote: Filler - paper strip - filler wet on wet - dry - final fill - dry - sand. So it doesn't work with adhesive strip.Tiger79 said:
Paper tape holds up better!?
If you have underlying wooden boards/panels that you screw your drywall into, it can be good to have a one or two millimeter gap so that the drywall sheets can't rub against each other, as this will create a snapping noise from time to time.
If you have underlying wooden boards/panels that you screw your drywall into, it can be good to have a one or two millimeter gap so that the drywall sheets can't rub against each other, as this will create a snapping noise from time to time.
Now I have read up a bit more and even on the Byggmax site they recommend a small gap between the boards.
When it comes to a jointed board, you can also leave a gap there instead of chamfering according to norgips instructions.
But I think, as mentioned, that both methods work on a regular wall, gap or no gap.
When it comes to a jointed board, you can also leave a gap there instead of chamfering according to norgips instructions.
But I think, as mentioned, that both methods work on a regular wall, gap or no gap.
Find it hard to believe that there SHOULD be a gap between gypsum boards, considering it’s a "dead" material. I have no idea how large the bevel should be on a cut edge, but the larger it is, the more putty you'll need.
In any case, I completely agree with Nillinsim; although the final layer of putty doesn't need to be fine putty if you’re going to weave or wallpaper. You can do the same with a fiberglass tape as with a paper tape, i.e., lay it in the putty and then spread with more, but which holds best I have NO idea, other than having read that the paper tape is supposed to be better.
When applying the putty, you can angle the spatula slightly + apply a light pressure with a well-filled putty, a wider one is preferable as you don't need to fill the edges with putty until the final putty round. If you’re unsure if it’s uneven once applied, you can also place the edge of the putty knife over it and check to ensure there's neither a "bulge" nor shadow in the seam.
I can't claim to be a master at puttying, but with quite a bit of putty + sanding hours and some practice with a painter, I've picked up some tips not super fun, but it’s what determines the end result.
In any case, I completely agree with Nillinsim; although the final layer of putty doesn't need to be fine putty if you’re going to weave or wallpaper. You can do the same with a fiberglass tape as with a paper tape, i.e., lay it in the putty and then spread with more, but which holds best I have NO idea, other than having read that the paper tape is supposed to be better.
When applying the putty, you can angle the spatula slightly + apply a light pressure with a well-filled putty, a wider one is preferable as you don't need to fill the edges with putty until the final putty round. If you’re unsure if it’s uneven once applied, you can also place the edge of the putty knife over it and check to ensure there's neither a "bulge" nor shadow in the seam.
I can't claim to be a master at puttying, but with quite a bit of putty + sanding hours and some practice with a painter, I've picked up some tips
not super fun, but it’s what determines the end result.I have built quite a bit and done all the tasks you can think of at home, but something I've never gotten right is the paper tape, so I've always gone back to the fiberglass tape. Now, I haven't had any cracked joints yet, but it annoys me that I can't get it right. I get a lot of air bubbles under the paper tape. I apply a layer of filler in the joint, insert the tape, and filler over it... Now it's time for the next room, so I thought I'd give the paper tape another try, any last-minute tips?