Hello all experts!
I am clearly an amateur. I had quite a few cracks in the exterior and interior walls made of blåbetong. Cheerfully, I scraped them into grooves about 3 cm wide and equally deep. I patched them with gypsum plaster after a recommendation at the building supply store, sanded and painted with skirting paint approved for the purpose. Now, after 3-4 weeks, almost all the cracks have returned. Most are as thin as hair strands but still fully visible. This is a storage space, but after all the work it still feels quite disappointing.
The house is classic, early 70s split-level.
Now to the question: What can I do differently in the next storage space to avoid the same thing happening again? I saw tips about using a setting compound for tiles. Good or bad idea? Is there any elastic compound that would work? Experiences? I would be sooo grateful for effective tips and advice on this!
I am clearly an amateur. I had quite a few cracks in the exterior and interior walls made of blåbetong. Cheerfully, I scraped them into grooves about 3 cm wide and equally deep. I patched them with gypsum plaster after a recommendation at the building supply store, sanded and painted with skirting paint approved for the purpose. Now, after 3-4 weeks, almost all the cracks have returned. Most are as thin as hair strands but still fully visible. This is a storage space, but after all the work it still feels quite disappointing.
The house is classic, early 70s split-level.
Now to the question: What can I do differently in the next storage space to avoid the same thing happening again? I saw tips about using a setting compound for tiles. Good or bad idea? Is there any elastic compound that would work? Experiences? I would be sooo grateful for effective tips and advice on this!
Is it an exterior wall in the split-level part? If so, it should only be plaster + silicate paint so the wall that is below ground can breathe. You can apply the plaster in plaster mesh to prevent cracks.B Bennca said:
If it's a regular wall/interior wall, you can glue paper strips over the cracks with wet room glue and then spackle over.
It never helps to just spackle/plaster over a crack without something reinforcing.
Thank you! Yes, that sounds reasonable.
The next storage to fix has only interior walls. Do you think it works with something like fiberglass tape that can be used when plastering drywall?
The storage with newly cracked walls has both exterior walls at basement level, i.e., below ground (newly drained) and interior walls. Do you think it can be "quick-fixed" with something, or is it "redo it right" that's needed?
The next storage to fix has only interior walls. Do you think it works with something like fiberglass tape that can be used when plastering drywall?
The storage with newly cracked walls has both exterior walls at basement level, i.e., below ground (newly drained) and interior walls. Do you think it can be "quick-fixed" with something, or is it "redo it right" that's needed?
It's kind of the same thing with fiberglass tape, they're easier to just stick on but they reinforce much less than a paper tape. So it's a bit risky, personally, I would have glued paper tapes to be completely on the safe side.B Bennca said:
To do it completely correctly on an exterior basement wall, the only approved materials are plaster + silicate paint.
So the correct way is to plaster one wall at a time, apply the mesh while the plaster is wet, smooth over the mesh with a putty knife, then plaster over the mesh and float, then plaster and float again after it's dried. Then paint with silicate paint.
For a quick fix on your cracks, I would probably use the fiberglass tape since it's hollow and can breathe. Then depending on how many cracks there are and the time you want to spend on it, plaster and float where the fiberglass tape is, or entirely replaster all walls and float them!
Paper strips it is. I'll tackle the exterior walls a bit later.Please elaborate a bit more on what you want to do, so it's understandable.
A few pictures make it easier
Plaster should never be used outdoors or in areas where there is a risk of penetrating moisture.
Correct. But I still got the recommendation to use gypsum plaster as the walls have long been rendered with it. However, the cracks are deeper than just the old plaster. The interior walls have the same type of cracks. That is, they were cracked before my failed repair attempt and thus cracked again after the repair. Therefore, it doesn't seem like it was the gypsum plaster's fault that the repairs didn't hold.N neo11 said:
can recommend this. working on fixing a rental apartment where the housing company thinks the best low drop on wallpaper, I believe the cracks will disappear. use this when broadly plastering my walls. crazy job. light concrete results in a lot of settling. then I don't know but point plaster the cracks with a smaller strip with housefix so you might try using something stronger for point masonry where the cracks are with a smaller strip.