How to pour a small footing for a low wall?

[snowjim]

Now that the mold is filled up, how long do you wait before smoothing the top? Or is it not necessary if you've leveled it with a board?

 

[snowjim]

Tried plastering and it went well.

Drilled a lot of rebar into the existing wall, filled the holes with concrete, and hammered in the pins. The rebar lying on the side was also used but was added only after 2 layers of concrete, i.e. quite high up.

http://i.imgur.com/YkX6qTw.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/NJDGhYX.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/07woNwE.jpg

Since we don't have a large concrete mixer, we used an old drill to mix which gave a bit of extra work (it started smoking a little ). But it managed through 4 bags anyway which unfortunately turned out to be too little for the mold (i.e. not counting the changes made to the mold). So we had to go to ByggMax and buy their fine concrete for the last layer, hope it doesn't matter too much? Took the opportunity to buy Biltema's 1400w mixer, and it worked really well! Now it was thoroughly mixed

http://i.imgur.com/qlCyl7C.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/ZH2DBu6.jpg

After an hour or so, I quickly plastered over it.

http://i.imgur.com/dB2EJvu.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/47CujbL.jpg

Now we've also covered it in plastic (black garbage bag) so it doesn't dry too quickly. However, the rain is in the air so it's probably fine.

How long should you wait before removing the mold?

 

[mexitegel]

Looks Finemang

I usually wait about 24 hours before demolding. However, you need to be cautious and not pry against the concrete as it is fragile the first few days.

You should water it several times per day for at least a week, and the first watering should be done carefully this evening.

The rule of thumb is a little water in the concrete when mixing and a lot of water when curing.

And you haven't plastered; you've ripped the concrete .

 

[snowjim]

so then I should be able to remove the mold tonight around 18-19 since we poured the last layer yesterday around 18-19? I can imagine it needs some finishing work, for example, there are some leftovers around the cross beams, and there's probably some excess as it wasn't completely even on top.

If we take off the mold tonight, should we fix the final touches then? What tools should be used for that? And after that, do we water it a bit with a watering can?

 

[mexitegel]

Yes, no problem. Just take it easy as I said. Flash and other residues are usually easy to remove. I usually use the edge of the crowbar and scrape off such things.

And water thoroughly, no light sprinkling. The concrete should preferably be kept moist all the time.

 

[snowjim]

Yes, it's no problem. Just take it easy as mentioned. Casting flash and other residues are usually easy to remove. I usually use the crowbar's claw side to scrape such things off.

And water thoroughly, no light splashing. The concrete should ideally be kept moist all the time.

Oh, so maybe I should even use the garden hose with a sprinkler nozzle?

Thanks for all the valuable information =D

 

[kimf]

Yes, take the garden hose and water generously. If there's plenty of sun this week, wrap it in a tarp or other plastic so it doesn't evaporate so quickly.

 

[GK100]

You don't need to be in such a hurry to remove your small form either. As mentioned, water generously now and remove it tomorrow so you don't break off edges when you've got everything in place. Score a little along the top edge when it's wet so it's even easier not to break it later when you loosen it.

 

[snowjim]

Unfortunately, he removed the mold before I read here, but it went well, and there was no problem chopping off some residue. However, we've encountered a small problem, or should we say beginner's mistake!?

We completely forgot to stir/vibrate the concrete, which unfortunately created quite a few air pockets. Here's what it looks like:

http://i.imgur.com/22syETv.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/R7MNy2L.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/tdBar4v.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/lEDzd4H.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/AsRjlyT.jpg

Here you can see one of the areas where there was a stud. There were previously quite high ridges here.

http://i.imgur.com/9RapbvN.jpg

To solve it quickly, we mixed some concrete and applied it. However, it was quite difficult to just fill in the holes, one might say, probably because the 0.4 mm grain is too large. I glanced at the plaster I have, which is 0-0.3 mm, but after talking to a friend, we're holding off on repairing the edge more. We'll let it dry thoroughly first, and then we might repair the holes with fine-grain plaster.

What I'm otherwise worried about with holes like these is cracking, but it seems just as likely that the thin layer of concrete we applied will also crack and fall off.


http://i.imgur.com/ICtttSE.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/VgaXe02.jpg

How would you address this? Don't say to rip it up again

By the way, I'm impressed with how hard concrete gets in such a short time!

 

[mexitegel]

Yes, you have to vibba. I thought I would have written it earlier, but unfortunately, I forgot .

But let it dry first as mentioned, then you can smooth it out as best as you can. There are fine renderring products, but rendering is not my cup of tea, so I hope someone else can answer better.

The risk of cracks in what you've cast isn't because you forgot to vibba. Possibly, there's a risk that the render you apply later might be prone to frost damage over time.

 

[snowjim]

The risk of cracks in what you've cast is not due to forgetting to vibrate. Possibly, there's a risk that the render you apply later may suffer from frost damage over time.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm afraid of, unfortunately not uncommon with render, and that's why I wanted to avoid it as much as possible. I'm also not very impressed with rendered facades as they often don't last in the long run.

We'll see what we do here, either we settle with what we've now applied or we'll try to fill the holes with something really nice. There must be something that can seal and still look good. I don't want to render the whole thing, but at the same time, I want the same color

I’ll water it before work tomorrow and then once when I get home.

 

[mexitegel]

By the way, don't forget to post pictures when you've done the bricklaying as well. I think I heard something about mexitegel and you definitely don't want to miss that

 

[snowjim]

Then we have cast a bit more, and at first, it looked really good!


http://i.imgur.com/coIVDz8.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/1q5UMy4.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/1Ed6WAo.jpg

But then we noticed that something wasn't quite right


http://i.imgur.com/LcKlhuq.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/YLul66P.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/lKZ0fe1.jpg

Can it be called a feature or straight-up a design question

Removing everything doesn't seem so interesting, maybe we could cast a bit extra so it's straight on the outside, or just ignore it. What would you have done?

Managed to fill in the cracks and cavities we've carved and sanded earlier.

 

[snowjim]

By the way, we are going to pick up mexitegel tomorrow and the current idea is to place mortar under the first layer to make it even (since the existing ledge is quite uneven), and then we'll use adhesive for the remaining layers.

We are thinking of 5 layers (37 cm) of mexitegel and then 2 pillars at the entrance, which are 7 levels high (44 cm).

2600 cm (26m) / 25 = 104 per layer
104 x 5 = 520 bricks (250x120x62) + 10% so about 570 bricks

I don't know yet how much space the pillars will take from those 26 meters.

 

[snowjim]

There was quite a lot of stone


http://i.imgur.com/5hrbJeH.jpg

Used tile adhesive fixk inside and outside.

http://i.imgur.com/qtTxiT0.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/TG5MTGg.jpg

Do you need to repair the holes more?

http://i.imgur.com/PtfJii4.jpg

Placed the column slightly outside the base to compensate.


http://i.imgur.com/y6artbE.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/Khn0zhW.jpg

The columns became rectangular due to the base's width.


http://i.imgur.com/WDuY8oD.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/FqEse2u.jpg