Hello,
I am going to build an interior wall with 70mm leca according to the sketch below.
All instructions online assume it's outdoors with free corners.

I have access to a laser level, long level, straightedge, large square, battens, mason's line, etc., but I can't figure out how to plumb everything. If I attach a batten to the existing wall, it will be in the way of the wall that is to be built.

Does anyone have any clever tips on how I can create points to stretch the mason's line between?
 
  • Concrete floor with marked plumbing lines, pipes protruding, tools, and new patchwork near the wall for building an inner wall, as per construction sketch.
M
If you attach a batten to the wall with a spacer so that the mason's string fits in between, and build against the batten, then you just remove the batten when you're done building, hope you understand what I mean, and hope I understand what you mean (y):rofl:
 
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Robbannor82 and 1 other
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Well, I don't understand that about the distance. Do you mean according to sketch A or B below? In that case, what should the distance x be in the picture? 0 mm? 10 mm?
 
  • Hand-drawn sketches labeled A and B showing distances, existing and new walls, and construction measurements.
The sketches disappeared...
 
Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
The sketches disappeared...
Oops. Fixed now.
 
You choose the distance (right?) yourself. With a 10 mm distance, you can build 10 mm from the string.
 
M
P proffsrik said:
Well, I don't understand the part about the distance. Do you mean according to sketch A or B below? In that case, what should the distance x be in the picture? 0 mm? 10 mm?
Like image A, but you don't need a large spacer, a tip is to attach the rule with drywall hooks, then just draw the heights on the rule, but set the distance at a height so the string doesn't get in the way of a height, it's enough with a spacer just so that the string fits between behind the rule
 
Great. Thank you. I can't find putshakar to buy on a Saturday, so maybe I'll have to attach it in another way.

For the walls that don't connect to an existing wall, I was thinking of attaching the string to a vertical 45x70 timber stud that I plumb and wedge between the floor and ceiling with an adjustable post shoe. Kind of like a prop. Do you think that could work?
 
M
P proffsrik said:
Great. Thanks. I can't find putshakar to buy on a Saturday, so it might be attached in another way.

For the walls that don't connect to an existing wall, I thought of attaching the string to a vertical 45x70 stud that I plumb and wedge between the floor and ceiling with an adjustable post shoe. Sort of like a prop. Do you think that might work?
Absolutely! That's how we do it too when we're building :)
 
M Zolt said:
Absolutely! That's also how we do when we build walls :)
A lot of string supports were needed...

Another question: Non-load-bearing walls. I'm planning to use Finja murblock bas 70mm. On the floor, I'll attach it with regular mortar B. But how do I anchor it to the adjoining walls and ceiling? Is reinforcement necessary?

The previous walls (made of 70mm lightweight concrete/blåbetong) had a similar span and they were not reinforced. They were also not anchored with anything other than mortar and possibly a few fixed-in-place four-inch nails.
 
  • Basement under renovation with cinder blocks, wooden supports, exposed pipes, and a boiler unit; discussing non-load-bearing wall anchoring.
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xLnT
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P proffsrik said:
Many rules for strings there...

Another question: Non-load-bearing walls. I will use Finja masonry block base 70mm. To the floor, I attach with regular masonry mortar B. But how do I anchor to connecting walls and ceiling? Is reinforcement necessary?

The previous walls (of 70mm lightweight concrete/blue concrete) had a similar alignment and they were not reinforced. They were also not anchored with anything other than mortar and possibly some embedded nails.
There are 90-degree angles that you attach to both the wall and the block (in the mortar).
 
X xLnT said:
There are 90-degree angles that you attach to both the wall and the block (in the mortar).
Do you mean one like this?
 
  • Weber Saint-Gobain Leca roof profile, metal strip with holes, dimensions 50x70x1200mm, used for securing when building with Leca blocks.
M
P proffsrik said:
Many rules for strings there were...

Another question: Non-load-bearing walls. I plan to use finja murblock bas 70mm. I will attach to the floor with regular murbruk B. But how do I anchor to the connecting walls and ceiling? Is bistålsarmering necessary?

The previous walls (of 70mm lättbetong/blåbetong) had a similar layout and they were not reinforced. They were also not anchored with anything other than murbruk and possibly some fastened Fyrtumsspikar.
Use bistål every 3rd course, that will suffice, but, but attach something to the wall if you want to feel more secure.
 
M Zolt said:
Run rebar every 3rd shift and it will suffice well enough, but fasten something to the wall if you want to feel more secure
Of course, it should be reinforced; I understood it as being about the connection between the new wall and the existing wall he was asking about.
 
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