11,028 views ·
17 replies
11k views
17 replies
How to attach and plumb masonry strings?
Hello,
I am going to build an interior wall with 70mm leca according to the sketch below.
All instructions online assume it's outdoors with free corners.
I have access to a laser level, long level, straightedge, large square, battens, mason's line, etc., but I can't figure out how to plumb everything. If I attach a batten to the existing wall, it will be in the way of the wall that is to be built.
Does anyone have any clever tips on how I can create points to stretch the mason's line between?
I am going to build an interior wall with 70mm leca according to the sketch below.
All instructions online assume it's outdoors with free corners.
I have access to a laser level, long level, straightedge, large square, battens, mason's line, etc., but I can't figure out how to plumb everything. If I attach a batten to the existing wall, it will be in the way of the wall that is to be built.
Does anyone have any clever tips on how I can create points to stretch the mason's line between?
M
muraren2
Building conservationist
· 441 posts
muraren2
Building conservationist
- 441 posts
If you attach a batten to the wall with a spacer so that the mason's string fits in between, and build against the batten, then you just remove the batten when you're done building, hope you understand what I mean, and hope I understand what you mean 

M
muraren2
Building conservationist
· 441 posts
muraren2
Building conservationist
- 441 posts
Like image A, but you don't need a large spacer, a tip is to attach the rule with drywall hooks, then just draw the heights on the rule, but set the distance at a height so the string doesn't get in the way of a height, it's enough with a spacer just so that the string fits between behind the ruleP proffsrik said:
Great. Thank you. I can't find putshakar to buy on a Saturday, so maybe I'll have to attach it in another way.
For the walls that don't connect to an existing wall, I was thinking of attaching the string to a vertical 45x70 timber stud that I plumb and wedge between the floor and ceiling with an adjustable post shoe. Kind of like a prop. Do you think that could work?
For the walls that don't connect to an existing wall, I was thinking of attaching the string to a vertical 45x70 timber stud that I plumb and wedge between the floor and ceiling with an adjustable post shoe. Kind of like a prop. Do you think that could work?
M
muraren2
Building conservationist
· 441 posts
muraren2
Building conservationist
- 441 posts
Absolutely! That's how we do it too when we're buildingP proffsrik said:Great. Thanks. I can't find putshakar to buy on a Saturday, so it might be attached in another way.
For the walls that don't connect to an existing wall, I thought of attaching the string to a vertical 45x70 stud that I plumb and wedge between the floor and ceiling with an adjustable post shoe. Sort of like a prop. Do you think that might work?
A lot of string supports were needed...M Zolt said:
Another question: Non-load-bearing walls. I'm planning to use Finja murblock bas 70mm. On the floor, I'll attach it with regular mortar B. But how do I anchor it to the adjoining walls and ceiling? Is reinforcement necessary?
The previous walls (made of 70mm lightweight concrete/blåbetong) had a similar span and they were not reinforced. They were also not anchored with anything other than mortar and possibly a few fixed-in-place four-inch nails.
There are 90-degree angles that you attach to both the wall and the block (in the mortar).P proffsrik said:Many rules for strings there...
Another question: Non-load-bearing walls. I will use Finja masonry block base 70mm. To the floor, I attach with regular masonry mortar B. But how do I anchor to connecting walls and ceiling? Is reinforcement necessary?
The previous walls (of 70mm lightweight concrete/blue concrete) had a similar alignment and they were not reinforced. They were also not anchored with anything other than mortar and possibly some embedded nails.
M
muraren2
Building conservationist
· 441 posts
muraren2
Building conservationist
- 441 posts
Use bistål every 3rd course, that will suffice, but, but attach something to the wall if you want to feel more secure.P proffsrik said:Many rules for strings there were...
Another question: Non-load-bearing walls. I plan to use finja murblock bas 70mm. I will attach to the floor with regular murbruk B. But how do I anchor to the connecting walls and ceiling? Is bistålsarmering necessary?
The previous walls (of 70mm lättbetong/blåbetong) had a similar layout and they were not reinforced. They were also not anchored with anything other than murbruk and possibly some fastened Fyrtumsspikar.



