Have you checked if there is a stud in the wall somewhere behind where you want the shelf? If so, attach a bracket to it, and it will take the majority of the load, then you can safely attach one or two more brackets to the drywall to stabilize the whole thing. As long as you get at least one screw into a wooden stud, you can feel completely at ease afterwards.
Alternatively, you can screw in the brackets you have, place a board in them, grip the board on the short sides towards the wall, and check if it supports your weight. If it doesn't in there, you probably shouldn't count on it holding in the long run for a 20 kg speaker + 20 kg cat landing on the speaker. However, if it feels stable with your weight, it will probably handle the speaker + cat too 
Here are some pictures of the painted plank and brackets. My plan now is to use 4 brackets in total to reduce the pressure on the drywall.
Larger images here: http://imgur.com/a/4TjG8
As you can see, the brackets are hollow but made of some type of metal.
The plank will be 5 cm short on each side and about 4 cm in the front for the center, which I think will look quite decent. I want to make the shelf as discreet as possible while still holding up well.
I know you say the plank should hold even though the glued joints are crossways, but to be on the safe side, I'm thinking of gluing 4 pieces of 2 mm brackets on the underside, which the brackets will also clamp around. The thickness of the bracket on the plank will be 20 mm, which is just what the brackets can handle.
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Monteringsdetaljer/Halplatta/Spikplatta-2000032393/
Larger images here: http://imgur.com/a/4TjG8
As you can see, the brackets are hollow but made of some type of metal.
The plank will be 5 cm short on each side and about 4 cm in the front for the center, which I think will look quite decent. I want to make the shelf as discreet as possible while still holding up well.
I know you say the plank should hold even though the glued joints are crossways, but to be on the safe side, I'm thinking of gluing 4 pieces of 2 mm brackets on the underside, which the brackets will also clamp around. The thickness of the bracket on the plank will be 20 mm, which is just what the brackets can handle.
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Monteringsdetaljer/Halplatta/Spikplatta-2000032393/
It won't be necessary. The drywall will give way long before the laminated wood does. You can count on the glue joint being stronger than the wood itself. Try to break a plank and you'll see that it's the wood that gives way, not the glue joint.snowjim said:
Another option is to choose a console that you can set up upside down like an L, where you place the speaker on the foot of the L. This way, the console will be completely hidden by the speaker, and you can opt for a large console.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
If you glue that plate under the glue-laminated board, I promise the laminated wood will bend in some direction, and in the worst case, the speaker will fall off the shelf.
Protte
Protte
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
Why don't you use the console in post 5?
With the console you have chosen, the speaker cannot be placed right against the wall.
Protte
With the console you have chosen, the speaker cannot be placed right against the wall.
Protte
It still doesn’t seem like they would do any good, so I’ll skip them, although I might clamp them in the beginning to ensure the board doesn’t crack, but they will only be clamped on the underside. It is extremely important that the speaker doesn’t fall because it could destroy a TV that can’t be replaced today.prototypen said:
Thank you for the information, I didn’t know the plate would warp just by gluing it.
Those are the brackets I've had before as I mentioned, and they are very large. The problem is that the center ends up near the TV, and unfortunately, it doesn't look very nice mounted. With the new brackets, it looks much better... I hope.prototypen said:
I have now set up the shelf.
Chose 3 brackets for appearance's sake, and for some reason, I managed to hit a stud (I think) with the right screw. The strange thing was that what I drilled out was still white, but it was still solid all the way in, and when you tightened the screw, it resisted quite well, so it couldn't have been drywall. The 2 E6 expansion screws weren't great; there are no problems attaching them, but they never become particularly rigid compared to the screw that was set in the stud. If you hung onto the expansion screws a bit, you could hear the claws digging into the drywall a little, but unfortunately, that's how it is with drywall. The rest of our walls have some type of particle board, and it feels MUCH more durable.
The brackets from Biltema don't feel super high-quality. When you've screwed them in place, the lower part tips forward slightly, which means that when you put weight on the shelf, it sways down to the brackets. Despite that, the shelf seems to sit well in the brackets since it can't be pulled out by hand after the screws were tightened.
You can see that the speaker leans outward quite a bit according to the spirit level, but it's not so bad in reality, actually. Of course, I would have liked it to be perfect, but I'm not sure if it's really possible with brackets like these.
Here are some pictures, if you want to see better resolution, go here: http://imgur.com/a/bepJl
Chose 3 brackets for appearance's sake, and for some reason, I managed to hit a stud (I think) with the right screw. The strange thing was that what I drilled out was still white, but it was still solid all the way in, and when you tightened the screw, it resisted quite well, so it couldn't have been drywall. The 2 E6 expansion screws weren't great; there are no problems attaching them, but they never become particularly rigid compared to the screw that was set in the stud. If you hung onto the expansion screws a bit, you could hear the claws digging into the drywall a little, but unfortunately, that's how it is with drywall. The rest of our walls have some type of particle board, and it feels MUCH more durable.
The brackets from Biltema don't feel super high-quality. When you've screwed them in place, the lower part tips forward slightly, which means that when you put weight on the shelf, it sways down to the brackets. Despite that, the shelf seems to sit well in the brackets since it can't be pulled out by hand after the screws were tightened.
You can see that the speaker leans outward quite a bit according to the spirit level, but it's not so bad in reality, actually. Of course, I would have liked it to be perfect, but I'm not sure if it's really possible with brackets like these.
Here are some pictures, if you want to see better resolution, go here: http://imgur.com/a/bepJl
Some more pictures.
You can see that the lower lip is not completely against the board here, this gets better when the weight is applied, but there is still a few mm. This is probably because the expansion mount protrudes the console mount by a few mm, but it could also be due to poor quality.
You can see that the lower lip is not completely against the board here, this gets better when the weight is applied, but there is still a few mm. This is probably because the expansion mount protrudes the console mount by a few mm, but it could also be due to poor quality.
Install a safety wire considering the large cat
This thread has shifted focus towards a thread I already have, so I refer to it instead as long as it concerns the shelf as a whole: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/261051-diskret-hylla-center-hogtalare-3.html
A safety wire could probably help with the force at the end, but near the screws, it won't make any difference. The unfortunate thing is that the safety wire will rest against the speaker, and it will unfortunately be quite a messy solution. However, it's a good thought!hsd said: