Currently building a maximally simple firewood shed (rain shelter). Foundation on ground slabs or paving stone (building plastic underneath as moisture barrier), sill in 28x120 standing decking timber and then a frame with 28x120 or 45x70. Laying 28x120 decking as a floor with a 2-3 cm air gap. Planning to panel horizontally with pressure-treated 22x95 with a 5mm gap for ventilation. Lean-to roof consisting of TR20 screwed onto crosswise 28x120, braced underneath with standing 28x120 crosswise.

How can I best reinforce this? Considering using cross-lapped perforated metal band but maybe oil-hardened board or asfa is better? But how would ventilation be solved then? I suspect that board material on the walls would result in poor ventilation, right?

/Anders
 
Think about two things. Firewood is heavy and messy. I recommend casting plinths so you can elevate a bit. Loose bark and splinters can then fall down through the gaps under the floor, and you won't have to sweep the shed clean all the time. You'll also get ventilation from underneath, which is good. The gaps in the floor should be at least 3-5 cm wide. Use sturdy beams 45*180 cc 60 because it's so heavy. Use diagonal braces in the frames or steel bands to reinforce the shed. The planks on the walls should also have gaps for ventilation, about 1-2 cm.
/CC
 
One or two diagonal braces from floor to ceiling, a Z, and you get stability without panels.
 
Ok, put a Z in a few sections then, and you'll get stability the simplest way. I was thinking of laying the foundation with a sill directly on 30x30 garden slabs to make it cheaper, but maybe it's better to put Byggmax ready-made blocks on garden slabs that I dig down? Still, I think a 45x145 standing directly on double layers of slabs should provide 145 + 50 + 50 mm ground clearance (minus the sinking) and hold up since the load is distributed. Joists 60 c-c and lay 28x120 as the floor.

I will have 22x95 pressure-treated wood as the panel and simply use a plank as a spacer when I screw it up.

Can anyone recommend what to paint decking wood with? I was thinking of using opaque glaze.

/Anders
 
That seems to be more than a maximally simple woodshed. :)

You can simplify by letting it rest on concrete slabs/garden slabs in the corners.

Proper joists in the roof, bearers, a horizontal joist a bit above the ground, and vertical paneling.

Something to prevent ground moisture. After a sufficiently long time, you will have enough debris under the floor for airflow there to potentially affect drying.

How do you then clear it out?

When you don't make a sealed shed, the roof and the wind through the walls are enough to dry the wood. And in any case, it's good to leave a few cm between the stacks.

Inside the shed, you can relieve the pressure from the stacks with vertical joists.
 
charta77 said:
That seems to be more than a maximally simple woodshed. :)

You can simplify by letting it rest on cement slabs/garden slabs in the corners.

.....

Something to prevent ground moisture. After a sufficiently long period, you'll have enough debris under the floor for airflow there to potentially affect drying.

How do you then clear it away?

........

Inside the shed, you can relieve the pressure from the stacks with standing studs.
I have laid out 35x35 garden slabs and stomped on them, the ground seems to hold up fairly well even though that spot in the garden is a bit soft. Will lay 45x145 c-c 900 and screw 28x120 across as a floor. The width of the floor will be 270 cm so I don't think it's enough to just place slabs under the outer supporting beams, or? The supporting beams should have slabs underneath them with about 90 cm spacing. I'm using pressure-treated lumber NTR A in the supporting beams even though the beams are not in direct contact with the ground.

Grateful for recommendations for c-c for the supporting beams. The beams are 390 cm and the height of the shed will be roughly 220 cm, so the shed will accommodate maybe 15-20 cubic meters, which is what I've split so far.

Laying regular 0.2 mm vapor barrier underneath as protection against ground moisture and then it will be easy to clean underneath from debris by running a broom or using a leaf blower. If the plastic breaks, I'll just lay in a new one.

How should I relieve the pressure from the wood stacks with standing studs; I don't quite understand.

/Anders
 
Something that works well for flooring is regular sj pall, there are gaps in them and the floor comes about 15cm up from the ground so it ventilates from underneath. :)
 
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