I'm wondering how to make the transition between the threshold and the floor look nice.

When installing flooring, there should be an expansion gap around the entire floor, even at the threshold. So there will be a gap that needs to be covered in a good way. See image.

If you want to cover the gap with the yellow piece I have drawn in, how do you best attach it to the threshold? Should you glue it to the threshold?

Or do you have other tips?

Otherwise, you can let the floor go under the threshold and door frames.
 
  • Illustration of a flooring transition, showing a gap between a threshold and hardwood floor, with a proposed yellow piece to bridge the space.
  • Illustration showing a doorway transition with wooden flooring, a threshold, and a yellow piece suggested to cover the expansion gap between floor and threshold.
At home, I removed the threshold and let the floor continue to the outside wall. Then I have the option to continue and just have a thin transition strip in between.
 
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David 1980 and 2 others
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I have placed the expansion joint under the door frames, then the floor has been allowed to go under the threshold.
Where it hasn't worked, I have nailed a smyglist to the threshold.
 
If you want to make the work simple, lay the parquet board parallel to the threshold. Without gaps and without molding. That's what I did in two different rooms. In one room, there were no problems at all. In the other room, it creaks a bit in the summer when you step near the threshold because wood expands when it gets more humid. I'm still satisfied and it looks perfectly fine.

If you want the floor to appear original and not added later, you should do like magnu. He placed the expansion joint under the door frame and then let the floor extend under the threshold. That work is considerably more difficult.

If the parquet boards are laid perpendicular to the threshold, a molding is needed unless you do like magnu.
 
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Hgetuhdwhhjcx
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I would lift the threshold, then plane away a bit of the frame if the floor doesn't go under it, then lay the floor under the frame. Leave a 2 cm gap between each floor, reattach the threshold, possibly make a new threshold, then saw the bottom edge of the door to match the new height of the threshold.

Best regards
 
CSF said:
I would raise the threshold, then plane away a bit of the frame if the floor doesn't go under, then put the floor under the frame. Leave a 2 cm gap between each floor, put back the threshold, possibly make a new threshold, then saw the door at the bottom edge according to the new height of the threshold.

Best regards
That's what I did in the first bedroom. I sawed out the frame to fit the floor. The engineered parquet was laid perpendicular to the threshold. It was easy to tuck the parquet board under the first door frame, but when I got to the second door frame, it was physically impossible to get the parquet in—I had to disassemble the frame to fit the parquet.

If you have a somewhat modern house with door frames that are screwed and relatively easy to dismantle, it's not too much work. You might need to repaint the moldings afterward to make it really nice. However, if you have a house where it's not entirely clear how to remove the frame, you should probably use smyglister.
 
Otherwise, you set up the threshold in the same way as when making thresholds for wet rooms! Build it like a T or an upside-down L, let the overhang cover the floor completely without any joint. neat and easy!
 
I have installed new flooring in my hallway. There is a bathroom where I couldn't remove the frame and threshold. What I did here was arrange an insert in the threshold, which covered the entire part where the door leaf goes in and extends a bit over the floor. Then I also had to saw a bit off the door.

For the laundry room, where the threshold is slightly higher compared to the floor, I nailed a quarter round molding.

For the kitchen floor, I have a level difference. Here I made a new threshold, starting with a threshold piece from Bauhaus. Then I combined it with a brass leveling strip.
 
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