Well, there I was again with a question about how on earth to make cutouts in the surface material so everything lines up. Last time, it was about a week ago concerning the floor chipboard.
Now it's about drywall on the walls. In the small bathroom, I have a number of boxes to be installed. Boxes because I'm using Uponor's fixture system. The issue is compounded by it being a room with a slanted ceiling, which makes alignment a bit tricky.
So how do you actually place the drywall properly so it aligns well at the joints, against the ceiling, and, most importantly, with small gaps around the boxes? I'm planning to seal these with caulk, followed by waterproof paint and its system.
Splicing the board between a pair of boxes doesn't feel great.... Please share how those who know this do it!
I can add that the boxes are smaller in dimension than electrical installation boxes, so those magnets won't work if anyone had that idea. :S
In great need of tips!
Now it's about drywall on the walls. In the small bathroom, I have a number of boxes to be installed. Boxes because I'm using Uponor's fixture system. The issue is compounded by it being a room with a slanted ceiling, which makes alignment a bit tricky.
So how do you actually place the drywall properly so it aligns well at the joints, against the ceiling, and, most importantly, with small gaps around the boxes? I'm planning to seal these with caulk, followed by waterproof paint and its system.
Splicing the board between a pair of boxes doesn't feel great.... Please share how those who know this do it!
I can add that the boxes are smaller in dimension than electrical installation boxes, so those magnets won't work if anyone had that idea. :S
In great need of tips!
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 024 posts
I measure with a tape measure and it usually succeeds.
Protte
Protte
Another tip is to smear the edge of the box with some kind of color (shoe polish, kids' finger paint, anything - but avoid the wife's lipstick if you care about the relationship), and then press the board in place against the boxes. Then saw according to the color marks.
Is it the Uponor Wall Box M6 or something similar you are using?
I've seen a solution where someone made their own jig placed inside the box to center a drill bit for a hole saw with a dimension that went exactly outside the edges of the box. Same principle as hole-in-one but this one looked homemade. If I remember correctly, a small hole was made in the plate that was so precise that you could center the bit, the plate was mounted against the ceiling, and then the respective hole at the box was drilled with the hole saw. Perfect holes, but personally, I thought it looked dangerous considering the risk of setting the centering drill bit too deep and then the risk of getting dirt and gypsum residues in the connection. If Uponor doesn't have such a device, I would probably go with the good old style with a folding rule and possibly risk having to fill in a bit with suitable material before the waterproofing layer.
I've seen a solution where someone made their own jig placed inside the box to center a drill bit for a hole saw with a dimension that went exactly outside the edges of the box. Same principle as hole-in-one but this one looked homemade. If I remember correctly, a small hole was made in the plate that was so precise that you could center the bit, the plate was mounted against the ceiling, and then the respective hole at the box was drilled with the hole saw. Perfect holes, but personally, I thought it looked dangerous considering the risk of setting the centering drill bit too deep and then the risk of getting dirt and gypsum residues in the connection. If Uponor doesn't have such a device, I would probably go with the good old style with a folding rule and possibly risk having to fill in a bit with suitable material before the waterproofing layer.
Hehehe... you apparently don't read the WHOLE postsandersmc said:
cederbusch said:
Measuring accurately is the trick, and you can manage that considering how precise you've been before. Otherwise, there are those who spend time creating things that fit the fixture (similar to hole in one effort) and have a spike through to find the center of the disc that needs to be placed.
You can make a drill template in any material, like plaster. I don't know how large the area with the holes is, but I always find it easier to handle a smaller piece of plaster than a larger one. It might even be possible to mark out the holes from the backside if there’s nothing in the way. Whether you drill to the right dimension first or go via smaller drill holes and a rasp/file is a matter of preference. With a template, at least the relative positioning is correct. If you then ensure it is level, it’s easier to measure from the edges of the template and transfer the measurements to the actual plasterboard. Probably not the most professional solution, but something like that is what I would do if I wanted it precise. I know exactly what a hassle it is with sloped ceilings Also, consider how you want the joint between the wall, sloped ceiling, and ceiling.
Also, consider how you want the joint between the wall, sloped ceiling, and ceiling.Many great tips, thanks. I'm inclined to create something to insert into the box and center a nail or so. Or I'll smear something on the boxes as mentioned. Wife's paraphernalia excluded, duly noted.
The tricky part is that most of it is neither level nor plumb, so it becomes a bit tricky to measure out. But the rasp will come in handy.
Regarding the ceiling, I'm thinking of trying to connect the drywall as close to the sparse panel that I put on the ceiling as possible. Then boards on the ceiling. Seal in gaps. Then we'll see if there should be trim or not.
The tricky part is that most of it is neither level nor plumb, so it becomes a bit tricky to measure out. But the rasp will come in handy.
Regarding the ceiling, I'm thinking of trying to connect the drywall as close to the sparse panel that I put on the ceiling as possible. Then boards on the ceiling. Seal in gaps. Then we'll see if there should be trim or not.
With "skarven" I meant that you have to think about what it will later meet, which might not be set up yet. If you hold two scrap pieces against each other in some angled corner, you'll understand what I mean. If you didn't already There are many variations there.
Yes, I'll have to do "foga" too
There are many variations there.Yes, I'll have to do "foga" too
Checked with the guy I saw using the jig, and they had actually used a corresponding hole-in-one and made a jig. Apparently, it took 5 minutes to make the jig if you have the right hole saws at home. I thought it was a really smart way when I understood how they put it all together.
1) Buy a suitable hole-in-one from, for example, biltema, besides the guide for the centering drill, it should be plastic
2) Use a hole saw whose inner diameter matches the size of your box; I assume you have to think about the length of the centering drill in some way here. Saw off the edge, in other words
3) Now you have a hole-in-one with the right outer dimensions for your box and continue with a hole saw whose inner diameter is a few mm larger than the outer diameter of the box.
Since they start from a hole-in-one, the box and connections are protected from the drill's tip; however, it's crucial to vacuum thoroughly afterward.
1) Buy a suitable hole-in-one from, for example, biltema, besides the guide for the centering drill, it should be plastic
2) Use a hole saw whose inner diameter matches the size of your box; I assume you have to think about the length of the centering drill in some way here. Saw off the edge, in other words
3) Now you have a hole-in-one with the right outer dimensions for your box and continue with a hole saw whose inner diameter is a few mm larger than the outer diameter of the box.
Since they start from a hole-in-one, the box and connections are protected from the drill's tip; however, it's crucial to vacuum thoroughly afterward.
When it comes to electrical boxes, you can...
- Unscrew the screws used to attach the cover/outlet/switch
- Cut off the heads of some nails that fit in the screw holes. They should be long enough to stick out a few mm when they bottom out in the screw holes
- Insert the cut nails into the screw holes with the tips facing outward
- Hold up the board where it should be and press firmly
- Between the impressions from the nails, use the hole saw
Maybe not a method for those who do this day in, day out, but if you don't want to spend the money on a hole-in-one (and the time to mod it in this case) for a small number of holes, this approach works quite well. The result is certainly good.
- Unscrew the screws used to attach the cover/outlet/switch
- Cut off the heads of some nails that fit in the screw holes. They should be long enough to stick out a few mm when they bottom out in the screw holes
- Insert the cut nails into the screw holes with the tips facing outward
- Hold up the board where it should be and press firmly
- Between the impressions from the nails, use the hole saw
Maybe not a method for those who do this day in, day out, but if you don't want to spend the money on a hole-in-one (and the time to mod it in this case) for a small number of holes, this approach works quite well. The result is certainly good.
Then it was plastered and done. It wasn't a "hole-in-one". I measured and kept my fingers crossed for all the water fixtures. It actually went pretty well. The first board was the best, then a little worse. But nothing that a bit of sealant can't handle.
For the electricity, which was only in one place, I smeared a bit of ketchup and pressed the board there. Then it was just about aiming with the hole saw in the middle and going for it. Turned out well.
For the electricity, which was only in one place, I smeared a bit of ketchup and pressed the board there. Then it was just about aiming with the hole saw in the middle and going for it. Turned out well.