I (or my dear wife) really want to have mirrored paneling in the hallway and after some research, I think I know how to build it.
We have many doors in our hallway where the mirrored paneling will find an end, bringing me to my dilemma...
How do you make/get a reasonable end to the door frames?
As I understand, the new baseboard will protrude, let's say 15mm, which will of course also project 15mm outside the door frame.
It's hardly possible to "miter" it since it's not flat on the back.
I've tried to illustrate my question in a simple picture.
I haven't decided yet whether to use MDF or planhyvlat, but perhaps someone here knows which is best to use.
You're thinking correctly, you usually miter it in so the profile continues into the wall when you finish it that way, 45-degree miter, glue the parts together so it becomes tight and nice.
You're thinking correctly; you typically miter it, so the profile continues into the wall when you finish in that way, 45-degree miter, glue the parts together so it becomes tight and neat.
Ok
But then doesn't that create a hollow space between the "new" baseboard and the old one since the baseboard isn't completely flat on the backside but slightly rounded?
Question 2:
What type of trim should one use? We currently have regular "straight" ones, like 12x56, but they don't really feel like the same style as the paneling?!
Antik or allmoge?
I don't know if it helps or hinders, but this is how it looks for us. The principle feels the same. Our linings and skirting boards are 15x95 and 15x120 respectively. Between the skirting board and decorative strip is masonite to build as little as possible.
But doesn't that create a void between the "new" baseboard and the old one since the baseboard isn't completely flat on the back but a little rounded?
Question 2:
What type of trim should be used? We currently have regular "straight" ones like 12x56 but they don't quite feel in the same style as the panel?
Antique or allmoge?
I think you got it completely wrong, you take the molding, cut it 45 degrees where it should end, then cut another piece at 45 degrees the same thickness as the molding, glue or nail the pieces together so it looks like the molding continues into the wall with the profile, and the back of the molding isn't visible, precisely because you miter it, the front of the molding follows all the way around and also covers the back.
I think you got it all wrong, you take the molding, cut it at a 45-degree angle where it ends, then cut another piece at a 45-degree angle with the same thickness as the molding, glue or nail the pieces together so it looks like the molding continues into the wall with the profile and the backside of the molding is not visible, precisely because of the mitering, the front of the molding follows all the way around and also covers the back.
Now I understand!
It will be a bit of work with this since we have 6 doorways/doors in the hall.
Thank you so much for all the tips!
Regarding the chair rail (which I think it's called), should you miter it where it extends beyond the casing?
Now I understand!
It will be a bit of a task since we have 6 doorways/doors in the hallway.
Thank you so much for all the tips!
Regarding the chair rail (which I think it's called), should it be mitered where it extends beyond the casing?
You can do with the chair rail as Roofer suggests with the profiled baseboard. It looks nicer and feels more crafted in my opinion, but otherwise, it's not uncommon to have a beveled cut that ends at the height of the casing if the rail is thicker than the casing. If you choose to continue with the thin casings, there will be a rather large level difference if it's a thick chair rail, but when everything is painted, it will probably look good.
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Petjohansson said:
