How to deal with tretex?

[Dissonans]

In the rooms where I'm renovating, there's a fiberboard panel on the walls and something similar on the ceiling. Right now my plan is as follows:
1) Nail paneling on two of the walls directly onto the fiberboard
2) On the other two, I plan to place plasterboard (not reinforced plasterboard) and then fabric
3) On the ceiling, I plan to put a thin batten (to accommodate the electrical installation) which I will then attach the ceiling paneling to

So I intend to keep all the fiberboard in place, but will there be problems (e.g., too soft or uneven for plasterboard)?
How would you have done it?

 

[Davion]

I am currently renovating the entire house. Tretex on about 100 m2 of wall has been there since '77. I'm just putting 13 mm plasterboard with loooooooong screws so that it grips quite well into the underlying 3-inch raw wood from the 1930s. I imagine it also helps to keep things rigid.

So I'm screwing directly on. Tretex insulates a bit, reduces noise a little, and is already there. So why not, I thought.

 

[Dissonans]

Thanks for the answer.

Have you had the chance to put up any drywall yet?

If so, has it gone well, and what are your thoughts on attaching things to the wall?

 

[Avemo]

From a construction perspective, I don't see any problems. And how you put things on the walls partly depends on what's behind them. If there are planks behind, as mentioned, you just need to use long screws.

Personally, I would hesitate to unnecessarily make the room smaller. In particular, I wouldn't want to decrease the ceiling height. There will also be more work with the moldings compared to if you replace the treetex with plasterboard.

 

[Pallewea]

I used renovation plaster long screws, 1940s house about 10 years ago no problems.

 

[Davion]

Thanks for the response.

Have you managed to put up any gypsum board yet?

If so, has it gone well and how are you planning to attach things to the wall?

I've managed to put up about 8 boards in width on the walls that have tretex behind them. It's gone really smoothly actually, after all, there are solid boards behind that the 58mm screws grip nicely into. I might be unusually un-fussy, but it looks good. It doesn't look worse than the walls I've put gypsum on with the old particle boards left. As we all know, old houses are a bit off by a couple of millimeters anyway. So all in all, it's going fine, probably thanks to the 58mm length of the screws. At the moment, I’m happy I didn’t tear away the tretex and struggled to replace it.

Moreover, you stop screwing when the gypsum starts to give way to the screw, so the tretex never really becomes a problem in terms of bulging, etc. So the gypsum and the screw have their interaction before there is any pressure that affects the tretex's properties.

 

[kniv]

We tore everything down and put up new drywall. There were also chipboards that made up the walls. Three rooms and a hallway, totaling maybe 50-60 sqm. Doesn't take too long, but unfortunately, it creates a lot of mess as it always breaks into 1000 pieces.

 

[claym]

I set renovation gypsum with long screws, 1940s house about 10 years ago, no problems.

I did the same though I used regular screws, no problems

 

[boohoo]

Removing all tretex. Partially, it has a special smell, burns like a torch, and is completely useless if you're trying to put things up.

 

[snuttjulle]

Removing all Tretex. It partly smells a bit peculiar, burns like a torch, and is completely worthless if you want to put things up.

And I think it's wonderful to be able to hang relatively heavy things on a pin or a picture on a thin brad, and when it needs to be moved around, you pull out the nail or pin and tidy up with the back of a screwdriver so the damage on the wallpaper isn't visible. But of course, if you screw something heavy into the wall, there will often be pressure marks afterward, but the strength isn't provided by the Tretex in that case, but by the underlying wood sheathing, which will be the same if you put up plasterboard.