Hello
Standard wooden roof trusses need to be attached to a load-bearing 20cm wide lightweight concrete wall, and I'm wondering how this is done. I will, of course, discuss this with an engineer, but it doesn't hurt to be fairly prepared.
The idea is primarily to ensure that the roof does not fly away even if Gudrun were to return.
At first, I thought of simply using the same kind of fasteners used when building a deck or so, see (1) in the attached file. However, I haven't seen this in my Google searches; instead, the searches seemed to suggest something like (2) or (3).
What are the esteemed members of this forum's opinions?
Best regards,
Magnus
Standard wooden roof trusses need to be attached to a load-bearing 20cm wide lightweight concrete wall, and I'm wondering how this is done. I will, of course, discuss this with an engineer, but it doesn't hurt to be fairly prepared.
The idea is primarily to ensure that the roof does not fly away even if Gudrun were to return.
At first, I thought of simply using the same kind of fasteners used when building a deck or so, see (1) in the attached file. However, I haven't seen this in my Google searches; instead, the searches seemed to suggest something like (2) or (3).
What are the esteemed members of this forum's opinions?
Best regards,
Magnus
On the top layer, place tar paper, a wood beam (at least 145x45), and then trusses that are fixed to the beam using angle brackets (100 mm, 4 per truss) and anchor nails.
The beam itself can be secured using countersunk threaded rods (M10 or M12, about 40 cm long). Place a beam on the wall. Drill holes about 30 cm deep, approximately 20 cm beside each truss. Remove the beam, fill the holes with glue/thin-bed mortar, and insert the threaded rods. Once the glue has hardened, you can lay tar paper and put the beams in place with pre-drilled holes. Place large square washers and tighten the nuts. Then continue with the angle brackets, preferably reinforced ones. Everything you need is available at Byggmax. Cheapest option.
Note that concrete does not adhere particularly well to lightweight concrete, which is why thin-bed mortar is a much better alternative.
The beam itself can be secured using countersunk threaded rods (M10 or M12, about 40 cm long). Place a beam on the wall. Drill holes about 30 cm deep, approximately 20 cm beside each truss. Remove the beam, fill the holes with glue/thin-bed mortar, and insert the threaded rods. Once the glue has hardened, you can lay tar paper and put the beams in place with pre-drilled holes. Place large square washers and tighten the nuts. Then continue with the angle brackets, preferably reinforced ones. Everything you need is available at Byggmax. Cheapest option.
Note that concrete does not adhere particularly well to lightweight concrete, which is why thin-bed mortar is a much better alternative.
Hello Isolde
This was exactly what I wanted, not least finding out that it's called threaded rod, anchor nail, and angle bracket. You're not in the game until you've 'acquired the appropriate construction vocabulary' and can search more specifically and make use of construction descriptions. That's what I like about this forum; there's always someone who can help the inexperienced get into the game. d^_^b
Thanks for the help and Merry Christmas
/Magnus
This was exactly what I wanted, not least finding out that it's called threaded rod, anchor nail, and angle bracket. You're not in the game until you've 'acquired the appropriate construction vocabulary' and can search more specifically and make use of construction descriptions. That's what I like about this forum; there's always someone who can help the inexperienced get into the game. d^_^b
Thanks for the help and Merry Christmas
/Magnus
Borrowing this old thread 
The strength of this fixture seems fantastic, but what do you do if you want aerated concrete between the rafters to be able to plaster all the way up to the eaves (minus the air gap, of course).
The strength of this fixture seems fantastic, but what do you do if you want aerated concrete between the rafters to be able to plaster all the way up to the eaves (minus the air gap, of course).
Reviving an old thread with a similar question.
I am building a garage with a shed roof and the trusses are beams instead of a truss system. The plan is to build one long side to 2400 and the other to 2900, with the last course of each built with U-blocks filled with concrete. The gables will be built like stairs and cut at an angle in line with the roof truss. However, if I install a wall plate and place the beams (they build 400) on it, I can't build up between the trusses (unless I build on top of the wall plate, maybe an upside-down U-block would be a solution?!)
Or is it easier to skip the wall plate and place the trusses directly on the concrete and secure with angle brackets on both sides?
I am building a garage with a shed roof and the trusses are beams instead of a truss system. The plan is to build one long side to 2400 and the other to 2900, with the last course of each built with U-blocks filled with concrete. The gables will be built like stairs and cut at an angle in line with the roof truss. However, if I install a wall plate and place the beams (they build 400) on it, I can't build up between the trusses (unless I build on top of the wall plate, maybe an upside-down U-block would be a solution?!)
Or is it easier to skip the wall plate and place the trusses directly on the concrete and secure with angle brackets on both sides?