There have been quite a few marks on our walnut floor.
It is a veneer-type floor with a thin wood surface that cannot be sanded.
So, it is not a laminate floor.
There are scratches as well as small indentations/nicks as seen in both attached images.
How can I hide these as much as possible?
I have walnut stain if that would help anything?
It is a veneer-type floor with a thin wood surface that cannot be sanded.
So, it is not a laminate floor.
There are scratches as well as small indentations/nicks as seen in both attached images.
How can I hide these as much as possible?
I have walnut stain if that would help anything?
You can buy köning wax at theofils m lackpenna, with them you can magically remove the damages.
I wonder if it's enough to apply some lacquer in the scratches/holes.
It's the difference in gloss between lacquered and unlacquered that is visible.
It's the difference in gloss between lacquered and unlacquered that is visible.
I agree with KnockOnWood to fill the damage with an oil-based varnish (important for the wood to darken, water-based does not work). Test on a single spot first and if it doesn't get dark enough, stain the damage before you drop in varnish.
Do you mean that an oil-based varnish darkens?Helioz said:
Does it do so immediately or over time?
How do I make sure it doesn't get too dark and look strange?
By varnish, do you mean a regular small varnish can that you can buy at any paint store, as long as it's oil-based?
Oil-based varnish causes the wood to darken more upon application compared to water-based varnish because the oil penetrates and remains in the wood while the water evaporates. The varnish itself will not darken further after application.
The rest of your floor is very likely varnished with an oil-based polyurethane varnish, so using an oil-based one yourself will match better. Almost any oil-based varnish will work, but a true floor varnish or marine varnish (polyurethane-based) will provide better durability.
The rest of your floor is very likely varnished with an oil-based polyurethane varnish, so using an oil-based one yourself will match better. Almost any oil-based varnish will work, but a true floor varnish or marine varnish (polyurethane-based) will provide better durability.
Check out the link http://www.konigtouchup.com/Aerosols.html
Should work fine but I think the floor is coated with glossy varnish, though it's hard to judge from the pictures. Drip a little varnish into one of the smaller holes and see if it matches before you go over all the damages.
Use something really small.savio said:
Probably best with a toothpick or matchstick.
For large damages, perhaps a cotton swab.
Varnish that goes outside the damage should be wiped away immediately with a cloth or lint-free paper.
Okay, toothpick sounds convenient, I'll go with that =)KnockOnWood said:
But one thing I don't understand, won't the damages still have the same light color even after my repairs? Shouldn't I try to drop in some dye first, then lacquer?
The oil in the varnish should make the light areas darken to the same color as the rest of the floor, provided they have not gone through the walnut veneer. Therefore, test it on one spot first and see how it turns out. If it's still too light, then use stain. If you use stain directly, it might become too dark.