Time to run heating pipes through the concrete ceiling! As far as I can tell, it's 20cm of concrete, likely of good quality with a lot of rebar, then a rubber mat and then 5-10 cm of leveling compound (seen from below).

The pipes are 15mm with 40mm c-c, but since it's a bit hard to hit the right spot, I think a hole about 100mm in diameter is what I want.

I can stand and drill/chisel from above, as the floor will be renovated anyway. Below is a garage, not too important.

Do you think these tools will do? If chiseling, is there a risk of large pieces falling out when breaking through, or is it millimeter by millimeter? And what do you do with the rebar?
Electric jackhammer on a speckled blue floor, with a pointed chisel bit attached, used for breaking through concrete ceilings. Electric jackhammer set in a case, with drill bits and protective accessories, prepared for concrete ceiling work.
 
L
There will be a lot of drilling and chiseling for you, it's like you said 200 mm and iron,
it could create a significant impact on the basement ceiling.
Hire a driller to get nice holes, and he will cut straight through the iron as well, definitely worth the money,
and he can drill 50 mm holes next to each other.
Do you know if there are any EL-rör in the vault where the holes are supposed to be?
 
No, only electric floor heating. Which shall be removed.
 
L
I wrote 50 mm hole, a driller can run 2 pcs of 20 mm side by side with 4 cm C/C and it goes fast as hell with small holes
Call and ask for cost, you avoid a lot of work, but you're not afraid to work I see,
but still in this situation
 
E
There is a drill available for rent for this. Drill 2 holes of 20 mm. A fraction of the labor effort and restoration work compared to a jackhammer.
 
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Hmm, maybe it's something. But still, I have a hammer drill 850W and 4.3J energy and good drill (https://www.proffsmagasinet.se/verk...borr/bosch-hammarborr-med-sds-plusfaste-o20)? What happens when you hit rebar with one of those?

In one spot I have to chisel anyway, because the outer wall goes too far into the room below, so the pipes have to go diagonally up to make it look nice. Thought I'd start there, so I can quickly see how tough it is?
 
E
If you have a rotary hammer, try drilling a pilot hole about 6-8 mm and then use a 20 mm of good quality. If you encounter iron, either change location or use a diamond core drill to get through where you want.
 
L
It's up to you how you do it, but it's possible to drill at an angle with such a machine,
I don't envy you with the chiseling,
 
The wall is in the way, can't drill at an angle! :)
 
E
Neither from below nor from above?
 
Going from below, but:
a) I don't know the exact thickness, so I can't calculate the angle, and
b) I want the pipes to come out perpendicular from the floor, so the bend will have to be in the concrete.
 
E
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That PX10 seems like a very good idea! How accurate is it, do you know? Does it work through reinforced concrete?
 
E
It can measure up to 1.35 meters, so it's no problem in your case. The margin of error is according to Hilti +-8 mm / 200 mm, but it is probably generously estimated.
 
L
It is also possible to get the correct angle graphically on mm, but if the PX10 works it can be easier.
 
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