Hello!

We have a large room on our upper floor that we are now going to divide to give a room to our son. On one side where the wall will be attached, there is some kind of lumpy wood paneling. Does anyone have tips and ideas on how we can solve that corner nicely? That wall is also a slanted wall.

The room he will get is going to be small, and we need to build as thin a wall as possible but of course, it also needs to insulate sound. Can we build with 45*45 studs and then just have some sort of board on the outside? We want a good wall that you can screw things into without having to look for studs and need to plug a lot. And then insulation in between. That’s really what my partner wants to build.

I want to build with 45*70 studs and then a layer of OSB board and then a layer of gypsum board on top of that.

We're then going to have wallpaper and paint on it. We also need a door in size 7*21.

Is one power outlet enough in a child's room? It feels a bit little, but at the same time, it's a lot more work to install more.
 
At first glance, 45x45 sounds weak, it might make for a slightly shaky wall, the most common is to use 45x70 + some sort of fiberboard + plasterboard, as you mentioned.

And you can run the electricity externally with "kulo" from the outlet that already exists. Contact an electrician since this is considered a permanent installation.
 
45x70 + wooden board + plasterboard.
This way, you can screw up what you want without having to look for studs.
Without the wooden board, the wall becomes weaker.
 
If you use plaster+osb+70-studs+osb+plaster, you get a very stable and good wall. Maybe even unnecessarily good for your purpose.
Do you mean the wall will be permanent or is it something you will take down after a few years?
You can also build with studs and chipboard, without plaster. Then it becomes a thinner and slightly simpler wall.
 
The bulky panel wall depends on whether the wall should remain even when the child grows older and how much effort you want to put in. I would probably just screw the batten to the wall and fill the holes with latex sealant which can then be painted over. Only the most enthusiastic DIY enthusiasts (like me for example :)) will scrutinize the seam so that it shows how you did it. Alternatively, you can mark out the batten, cut and recess the batten into the panel, which looks neater from a distance of 7 cm and gives the impression that the wall has always been there.
I wouldn't build a wall in 45x45, it becomes flimsy, do it properly from the start, the few cm you save in floor space are not worth the disadvantages.
In general, you can't have too many power outlets, a double outlet per wall is the minimum, but in children's rooms, it has never been enough for our kids. You need to power at least one computer, a TV with at least one often several video games, mobile charger, lamps, and some things we don't even know about today :) friends also drag their computers and video games there from time to time :)
 
Thanks for all the great answers. The wall is intended to stay there for as long as he lives at home at least, but if we don't need to remove it, it will remain even longer, probably for 20 years :) As for electrical outlets for video games, TV, computer, and similar things, we will have a room outside that will be the children's with all that stuff. But I feel that one outlet might be a bit too little. That kind of "kulo" wiring can be done when you feel you need more outlets in that case.

How does it work to build with just particleboard, then? I mean, how well does glue stick to the wallpaper afterward? Does it hold well?
 
You should not wallpaper on chipboard; you need gypsum! Otherwise, the wallpaper will come off.
 
In the house we renovated in the late '80s, we put chipboard on all the walls, didn't want plasterboard in a house where the frame was from the 1800s + we wanted to be able to nail/screw things up everywhere we wanted. We wallpapered all the walls, pre-glued, and when it dried we put up the wallpaper, it's still there even if some walls have new wallpaper on top, but nothing has fallen off. No problem at all, I would say, but maybe the wallpaper paste has been environmentally adapted since 1988 and therefore works worse on chipboard today than it did back then, like so many other things. :rolleyes:
Oh yes, the boy has a room outside with the computer/TV :D:D ours did too, but suddenly there are electric-needing things in both rooms, don't know why, seems to grow up from the floor :confused::p
 
I divided a large room into two, used 45x45 with osb and plasterboard on both sides. The wall is about 4 meters long and feels stable. In other words, 45 studs are enough if you use double boards with insulation in between.
 
We used 45x70 with OSB + plasterboard on both sides, don't forget insulation. Of course, 45x45 with OSB + plasterboard and insulation works fine. The reason we used 45x70 was that we wanted thicker insulation.
 
Optimal sound insulation is said to be 1/3 of the space, so 70mm studs and 25mm insulation are probably good.
 
1/3 is enough to take care of the resonance in the box that occurs between the discs. It has nothing to do with optimal. Then it is so that one uses 45 or 70 insulation in a 70 wall because this is standard.
 
JLAINE said:
You shouldn't wallpaper on chipboard, you need plaster! Otherwise, the wallpaper will come off.
I have wallpapered on chipboard without any problems. You might just need to use a little more paste than usual.
 
I would save the 25 mm by using 45x45 + 2x osb + 2x plasterboard. good enough for the purpose. You're not supposed to hang anything heavy on the wall.
 
C
JLAINE said:
You should not wallpaper on chipboard, you must use plasterboard! Otherwise, the wallpaper will come off.
Why would it do that? You just need to pre-paste the chipboard before wallpapering and it will stick well.
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.