3,046 views ·
6 replies
3k views
6 replies
Hanging up Pull-Up bar, porous walls?
Hello,
I need some expert help on how to install a Pull-Up bar at home in my apartment (built in the 1950s) and the walls seem to be made of lightweight concrete as they are porous and crumbly. There's a certain amount of movement in the pull-up bar when I'm pulling myself up and down (90kg), so I don't want to take chunks of the wall with me... (I'm referring to this https://www.gorillasports.se/pull-up-stang-vagghangd-chinsstang-chins/p/747?gad_source=1).
I've had challenges hanging everything from paintings and nightstands to the TV. The holes become both high and wide when drilling. I've learned to use a smaller drill in diameter and drill very carefully, but despite that, the drill can move both upwards and sideways, making it very difficult to drill straight like in concrete. It's one of the worst materials I've drilled into so far; I'm not an expert, but I usually manage to fix most things after looking up tips online, but this is a different type of challenge.
Our janitor thought it was a mix of lightweight concrete & brick, so that's the information I went by when talking to Beijer. The man at Beijer recommended proper duo plugs and large screws (M10x80) to attach to the brick that usually comes behind the lightweight concrete. There's no guarantee, of course, but he thought it best to start with that before the more expensive solution like anchor mass, where you end up with a cost equivalent to the pull-up bar. HOWEVER! I drilled the other day with a 10 cm long drill without the hammer drill function and the material was just gray (see pictures), which means there doesn't seem to be any brick involved.
What/how do I do? I don't want to give up on this. At Hornbach, they said it's impossible, but then I went to Beijer because it doesn't feel like it should be impossible.
I need some expert help on how to install a Pull-Up bar at home in my apartment (built in the 1950s) and the walls seem to be made of lightweight concrete as they are porous and crumbly. There's a certain amount of movement in the pull-up bar when I'm pulling myself up and down (90kg), so I don't want to take chunks of the wall with me... (I'm referring to this https://www.gorillasports.se/pull-up-stang-vagghangd-chinsstang-chins/p/747?gad_source=1).
I've had challenges hanging everything from paintings and nightstands to the TV. The holes become both high and wide when drilling. I've learned to use a smaller drill in diameter and drill very carefully, but despite that, the drill can move both upwards and sideways, making it very difficult to drill straight like in concrete. It's one of the worst materials I've drilled into so far; I'm not an expert, but I usually manage to fix most things after looking up tips online, but this is a different type of challenge.
Our janitor thought it was a mix of lightweight concrete & brick, so that's the information I went by when talking to Beijer. The man at Beijer recommended proper duo plugs and large screws (M10x80) to attach to the brick that usually comes behind the lightweight concrete. There's no guarantee, of course, but he thought it best to start with that before the more expensive solution like anchor mass, where you end up with a cost equivalent to the pull-up bar. HOWEVER! I drilled the other day with a 10 cm long drill without the hammer drill function and the material was just gray (see pictures), which means there doesn't seem to be any brick involved.
What/how do I do? I don't want to give up on this. At Hornbach, they said it's impossible, but then I went to Beijer because it doesn't feel like it should be impossible.
Did you try inserting the plug and using the screws you bought? It's not until you've done that that you know if they hold sufficiently..? Most of the force in the upper holes will be pulling out from the wall, and there, the plug and screw need to withstand the pulling force. The lower holes will need to withstand forces from above and below, so the screws and plugs might compress the material, causing it to loosen.
If this happens, maybe a through bolt with a washer on the back is worth considering – although it usually doesn't look very nice... but then you might have to consider if you can mount the frame on a plywood board and then make several holes in the board to distribute the force in the wall by using multiple screws. It might also be worth considering using a construction adhesive between the board and the wall, along with some screws.
If this happens, maybe a through bolt with a washer on the back is worth considering – although it usually doesn't look very nice... but then you might have to consider if you can mount the frame on a plywood board and then make several holes in the board to distribute the force in the wall by using multiple screws. It might also be worth considering using a construction adhesive between the board and the wall, along with some screws.
Those walls are nothing to write home about. It's a layer of plaster that doesn't have much to hold up against. I agree with the previous speaker. Opt to run two bolts through and a piece of plywood on each side of the wall, which you can spruce up with faux leather or something similar.
You could put a couple of pieces of wood first on the wall so you get a few more anchor points.X Xexelol said:Hello,
I need some expert help on how to set up a Pull-Up bar at home in my apartment (built in the 50s) and the walls seem to be made of lightweight concrete as they are porous and crumbly. There will be some movement in the pull-up bar as I pull myself up and down (90kg) so I don’t want to bring chunks of the wall with me.. (referring to this one [link]).
I’ve had challenges hanging everything from paintings, nightstands to TVs. The holes become both tall and wide when drilling.. I’ve learned to use smaller drill bits in diameter and drill very carefully, yet the drill can go up or to the side, very difficult to drill straight as in concrete. Among the worst I've drilled into so far, I'm absolutely no expert but usually manage to fix most things after checking tips online, but this has become a different type of challenge.
Our janitor thought it was a mix of lightweight concrete & brick so that’s the information I went with when I talked to Beijer. The man at Beijer recommended proper duo plugs and large screws (M10x80) to attach to the brick that usually comes behind the lightweight concrete. No guarantee, of course, but he thought it was best to start with that before the more expensive solution of anchor mass where you reach the equivalent cost of the pull-up bar. HOWEVER! I drilled the other day with a 10 cm long drill, went through easily without the hammer function and the material was just gray (see pictures) i.e. there doesn’t seem to be any brick in the match.
What/how do I do? I don’t want to give up on this. At Hornbach, they said it’s impossible, so I went to Beijer because it doesn't feel like it should be impossible.
Hello,
Thanks for all the replies!
@Testarn: No, I haven't tried, I was about to, but stopped when I drilled and there was no brick involved. I would prefer to do it properly and just once. Drilling through the wall is unfortunately not an option since the bathroom is on the other side, and the wall is about 50 cm thick. A board/plank could be an option or thicker metal in black so it's more aesthetic, but then maybe the Kemankar solution becomes cheaper in the end anyway.
@Jontha: No, as I said it has been a challenge to even get pictures straight despite laser measurement, etc., as the holes tend to grow and it doesn't get drilled straight.
@RoTe: Exactly the solution a colleague also suggested and Beijer as well, but if there was brick, then the plugs and screws would hold. This solution is a bit more permanent and requires some work to remove on the day I move (angle grinder & drilling out the thread so I can fill it again).
@Emanuel01: Thanks for the tip, I'm considering it if I can find a good aesthetic solution, e.g., thicker black metal. This happens to be in the living room, the only possible place I have in the apartment for it.
How thick should the board/metal piece be and how many screws to attach it?
In theory, should one first put up the board/metal piece and then drill through it next to the wall to then attach the pull-up bar?
It will probably be either a board/metal piece solution or a chemical anchor, depending on the final cost and aesthetics as chemical anchors are less ugly than a big board piece. (as mentioned if one can get hold of a thicker black metal piece)
Thanks for all the replies!
@Testarn: No, I haven't tried, I was about to, but stopped when I drilled and there was no brick involved. I would prefer to do it properly and just once. Drilling through the wall is unfortunately not an option since the bathroom is on the other side, and the wall is about 50 cm thick. A board/plank could be an option or thicker metal in black so it's more aesthetic, but then maybe the Kemankar solution becomes cheaper in the end anyway.
@Jontha: No, as I said it has been a challenge to even get pictures straight despite laser measurement, etc., as the holes tend to grow and it doesn't get drilled straight.
@RoTe: Exactly the solution a colleague also suggested and Beijer as well, but if there was brick, then the plugs and screws would hold. This solution is a bit more permanent and requires some work to remove on the day I move (angle grinder & drilling out the thread so I can fill it again).
@Emanuel01: Thanks for the tip, I'm considering it if I can find a good aesthetic solution, e.g., thicker black metal. This happens to be in the living room, the only possible place I have in the apartment for it.
How thick should the board/metal piece be and how many screws to attach it?
In theory, should one first put up the board/metal piece and then drill through it next to the wall to then attach the pull-up bar?
It will probably be either a board/metal piece solution or a chemical anchor, depending on the final cost and aesthetics as chemical anchors are less ugly than a big board piece. (as mentioned if one can get hold of a thicker black metal piece)
The nearest metal workshop can cut a piece of metal.X Xexelol said:Hello,
Thanks for all the responses!
@Testarn: No, I haven't tested it, I was about to, but stopped when I drilled and there was no brick involved. I prefer to do it properly and once. Drilling through the wall is unfortunately not an option since the bathroom is on the other side, plus the wall is about 50 cm thick as well. A board/plank could be an option or thicker metal in black for aesthetics, but then maybe the Chemical anchor solution becomes cheaper in the end anyway.
@Jontha: As mentioned, it has been a challenge to even get pictures straight despite laser measuring, etc., as the holes tend to expand and don't drill straight.
@RoTe: Exactly the solution a colleague also recommended and even Beijer, but if there was brick, the plugs and screws would hold. This solution is a bit more permanent and requires some work to remove the day I move (angle grinder & drilling out the thread so I can fill it).
@Emanuel01: Thanks for the tip, I am considering it if I can find a good aesthetic solution for it, e.g., thicker black metal. This happens to be in the living room, the only possible place I have in the apartment for it.
How thick should the board/metal piece be and how many screws to attach it?
In theory, should one first put up the board/metal piece and then drill through it along the wall to then attach the pull-up bar?
It will be either a board/metal piece solution or chemical anchors, depending on the final cost and aesthetics, as chemical anchors are less unsightly than a large board. (that is if one can find a thicker black metal piece)
But then you'll probably get it untreated.
Got a piece for free for my stove but put a few 100kr in their coffee fund. Had matte black paint at home and painted it myself.
Click here to reply


