Hang machine on wall double drywall….

Cerb · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:22 PM

R roli said:
There must be studs in the wall that can be secured into. And if the placement of the studs doesn't match the mounting on the machine, you could place an additional board on the front of the wall to "link" between the studs and the mountings. It's always easy for a client to set up a lot of demands that can't be fulfilled...

how does it help if TS isn't even allowed to screw through the plywood?

Taren43 · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:24 PM

Glue up a board with applied extremfix, then screw it in.

roli · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:29 PM

C Cerb said:
how does it help if the OP can't even screw through the plywood?

That's where the client's unreasonable demands come into play. It's not well thought out or feasible.... Attaching a 70-kilo object that has its center of gravity quite a bit away from the wall without going through a board that we don't even know the thickness of. If it's a board around 12-15 mm, it's too flimsy. Someone or some people had bad luck in their thinking process the day they decided the wall's construction.

Isakare · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:30 PM

Experienced the same thing, we refused to mount it. The solution was that they cut out the drywall behind, screwed and glued an additional layer of plywood onto the existing one, and then a layer of drywall. Then predrill as you said, coarse threaded slightly longer screws that were cut to the right length for the same coarseness on the thread all the way. What we put up was some type of metal cabinet that covered the entire operation in the wall, so they approved the fire protection as adequate indeed. And it was real plywood in the wall, not OSB, otherwise, we would have refused completely.

kribban · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:41 PM

A AG A said:
Because there are pipes in the wall?
But there aren't pipes everywhere, and someone should know or be able to figure out where they are.

The machine in question is drawn in its place in the project. It cannot be moved for various reasons. You would think it should be easy for them to inform where the pipes are, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

Jerald Stuartson · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:42 PM

A large stainless steel plate with a hell of a lot of screws into the wall and then you attach the machine to the plate.

kribban · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:43 PM

Isakare said:
Experienced the same thing, we refused to install it.
The solution was to cut out the gypsum behind, screwed and glued an extra layer of plywood to the existing one, and then a layer of gypsum.
Then pre-drill as you said, coarse-threaded slightly longer screws that were cut to the right length for the same thread gauge all the way.
What we installed was some type of metal cabinet that covered the entire operation in the wall, so they approved the fire protection as satisfactory at least.
And it was real plywood in the wall, not OSB, then we would have refused completely.

it is real plywood behind the double gypsum

kribban · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:45 PM

J Jerald Stuartson said:
A large stainless steel sheet with a damn lot of screws into the wall, and then you attach the machine to the sheet.

That idea isn't so bad actually. A large sheet where the mounting rail is attached. A hell of a lot of screws. I'll take this idea with me

Jerald Stuartson · 13 Oct 2022 at 9:49 PM

K kribban said:
That idea is actually not so bad. A large sheet where a carrier strip is mounted. A hell of a lot of screws. I'll take that idea with me

The purpose is to get a more widespread load instead of point loads.

mojjen · 13 Oct 2022 at 10:09 PM

K kribban said:
One suggestion has been to pre-drill 3 mm and a maximum of 38 mm deep and use an "Ikea" screw like this one:

[link]

I find it hard to see that this will hold but I'm not an engineer

The problem is when it's set in a pre-drilled board and 30-35mm pulls in the wood, it's strong. Here you have a 12mm (I assume) ply where only the tip goes in. Feels extremely uncertain..

kribban · 14 Oct 2022 at 6:51 AM

M mojjen said:
The problem is when it's placed in a pre-drilled sheet and 30-35mm goes into the wood, then it's strong. Here you have a 12mm (I assume) plywood where only the tip goes in. Feels extremely insecure..

exactly. That's what I'm trying to convey to the consultant. They think we have good conditions.

mojjen · 14 Oct 2022 at 7:00 AM

K kribban said:
exactly. That's what I'm trying to convey to the consultant. They think we've been given good conditions

Demand that the consultant, in their capacity as designer, determines the assembly method down to the screw level. Also, they should take written responsibility for safety. That is, exonerate you. If they don't want to do that, then you have the answer that you shouldn't do it either.

Installation · 14 Oct 2022 at 2:11 PM

Vippbult is the shit.

snuttjulle · 14 Oct 2022 at 2:48 PM

I Installation said:
Vippbult is the shit.

How did you plan to attach it without drilling through the plywood board that must not be penetrated?
My suggestion is similar to the proposal with stainless steel, but a new sturdy plywood treated in the same way as the plasterboards between the ceiling and floor with lots of screws and glue.

Installation · 14 Oct 2022 at 2:56 PM

snuttjulle said:
How did you plan to attach it without drilling through the plywood sheet that must not be penetrated?
My suggestion is similar to the proposal with stainless steel plates but a new strong plywood treated in the same way as the gypsum boards between the ceiling and floor with many screws and glue.

you take a chance

Is it potable water? Spill? Gas? Everything can be solved.