Hello,
We are going to put drywall on the interior walls of a room and then wallpaper. The question is how to best/easiest handle the corners? Should we keep the bevel on the drywall and then use fiberglass mesh/spackling or simply cut the boards 45 mm and just apply a latex sealant in the corner? It should be somewhat flexible so it doesn't crack, right? It feels much easier than sanding/spackling in the corners? What do the pros think?
We are going to put drywall on the interior walls of a room and then wallpaper. The question is how to best/easiest handle the corners? Should we keep the bevel on the drywall and then use fiberglass mesh/spackling or simply cut the boards 45 mm and just apply a latex sealant in the corner? It should be somewhat flexible so it doesn't crack, right? It feels much easier than sanding/spackling in the corners? What do the pros think?
There are corners for plaster,,, that is, a thin iron strip with lots of holes in it, the corner becomes strong, straight, and can be easily filled and wallpapered with it.
The alternative is to put a corner strip in wood... sure, a bit -70s style but it becomes straight and nice.
The alternative is to put a corner strip in wood... sure, a bit -70s style but it becomes straight and nice.
It will probably resolve itself automatically if you want to screw C-C on studs?
Whether there is chamfering or not, I always put fiberglass tape and apply filler. In the corners, it doesn't need to be completely even. It is much more forgiving than on the large wall surface.
Whether there is chamfering or not, I always put fiberglass tape and apply filler. In the corners, it doesn't need to be completely even. It is much more forgiving than on the large wall surface.
Ahhh,,,, Sorry, 
I would have kept the chamfering and filled. or had 2 cut boards.
I would have kept the chamfering and filled. or had 2 cut boards.
I remembered that in the "hantverkarskolan" (DVD series for DIYers), they show how to build a wall with steel studs and there they place the first stud from the wall at 40 instead of 45 cm and cut off the first chamfer on the sheet. Right or wrong, I have no idea... but it seems logical... avoid having to spackle up the chamfer in the corner...
I saw an assembly instruction from one of the plasterboard manufacturers online, where they completely dismissed the use of Latex in the corners. It won't be strong enough. It should be a paper tape.
Cardboard strip is what works best because it prevents movement in all directions; the fabric strips are no good as they don't absorb diagonal movements in the weave direction. In my world, latex sealant is not an option unless we're only talking about painting, but if it's wallpapering, latex sealant doesn't work at all as the wallpaper cracks and bubbles in the corner.
Hmm.
A little of it depends on what is causing the corner cracks...
If it's a case of being careless and not properly braced or set LP50 in the corners, a paper strip might help, but if it's movements in the wood or slight settlements in the house, I find it hard to see how a paper strip would hold against that...
That's where latex is more practical because it has the ability to absorb some movement - BUT - in completely newly built houses, it's probably just as difficult as anything to completely avoid crack formation... At least, I think you see those cracks in almost every house...
A little of it depends on what is causing the corner cracks...
If it's a case of being careless and not properly braced or set LP50 in the corners, a paper strip might help, but if it's movements in the wood or slight settlements in the house, I find it hard to see how a paper strip would hold against that...
That's where latex is more practical because it has the ability to absorb some movement - BUT - in completely newly built houses, it's probably just as difficult as anything to completely avoid crack formation... At least, I think you see those cracks in almost every house...
Ok. I will have both OSB and plasterboard. I haven't placed the outer stud at the outer corners of the house and now that I think about it, I haven't actually done noggings in that sense. I have screwed three regular brackets as noggings so that the outermost studs were correct internally. I locked the outer walls with horizontal 45 studs, on which in the external corners I placed a metal bracket (LP50?).Styx said:We typically use an LP50 if double panels are to be set - like OSB + plasterboard. Then you can place it between the OSB and plasterboard and skip the noggings behind - although it's best of course with noggings.
I have leftover brackets after I laid chipboard that are enough for the inner corners as well. Maybe I should place them then... and in that case is it best to place them between plasterboard and OSB? Will there be an issue with the plasterboard screw gripping incorrectly causing a gap between the metal and OSB?