Know that there is a plethora of threads on this topic.


I have read through many of them but haven't become any wiser, instead more confused.

Cutting skirting boards at an angle usually isn't much of a problem.
but now with these moldings
Floor molding placed in various angles on a miter saw workbench, illustrating placement options for cutting corners.
I don't know how to position the molding, so could someone kindly help me out with this.
I know it has been explained several times in the threads I referred to, that's why I took some photos of the molding from the options I could think of.

Wooden skirting board placed on a miter saw table, with sawdust around. The board is laid flat for cutting at specific angles.
The molding is upside down,

A miter saw setup with a white molding piece positioned for cutting, surrounded by wood shavings and tools.
Normal as it is mounted

Wooden baseboard on miter saw showing different placement options, with sawdust and marking lines, part of a DIY guide for proper installation angles.
Normal but with the backside up

Saw setup for cutting a floor molding with a miter saw, showing the molding positioned in various angles on the workbench.
On its side

Miter saw setup for cutting baseboards, shown with a wooden board positioned for accurate angle measurement.
On its side with the backside out.

I have always thought that the molding should be positioned as I named "Normal as it is mounted"
but I can't manage to get any sensible angles.
I found a table that suggested a 90-degree corner should be cut with a miter angle of 35.3 and a bevel angle of 30 degrees.
 
The easiest thing is to saw a right and a left and use them as a reference when cutting. One of them will be placed backwards to get the correct angle. Always a 45-degree angle.
 
I usually place/set the molding in the miter saw just as it should sit, just like in your picture below! It should be correct, but maybe your angles are not 90 degrees? Otherwise, a good tip as mentioned above, is to cut two templates, one for right and one for left!

View attachment 121960
 
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JK76
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You have not placed the molding correctly in any of the pictures. Imagine that the back fence is the wall, and then you can place the molding against the "wall" and then just miter them. Measure the length from wall to wall and mark on the lower part and the back of the molding. Do not try to hit the drawn lines at once, but rather make the molding a little too long and then cut several times until you hit the line.
 
I made templates last time I put up moldings. Keep in mind that there are both interior and exterior corners.
 
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Aaahhh.......I remember when I was in the same situation as the OP and was pulling my hair out.....somehow it worked out. For a while, I thought it wasn't possible to achieve, but once I figured it out, it went smoothly thereafter. If I could explain it so someone understands.....?.....no!

//LocTite
 
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Smilfink
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do you mean that the strip should be placed like this for an inner corner, and according to my "normal" when I then come to the outer corner?
Cutting a wooden molding on a miter saw near an inner corner of a house exterior. A hand adjusts the molding against the saw fence.

Did a test and it seemed to make a good corner.

LocTite said:
Aaahhh.......I remember when I was in the same situation as TS and tore my hair out....
lucky I can get some help here, don't have much hair left....:D
 
No, not like that. That way you have the table as the wall. You should think of the back support of the saw as the wall. You should have the lacquered surface facing you when you saw. When sawing lacquered moldings, you should consider how a saw blade works. They splinter more where the blade exits than where it enters.
 
VerktygsGurun said:
The rear support on the saw should be considered the wall
Then I assume it would be like this :confused:
A hand holding a wooden trim piece against a textured metal surface, possibly during construction or renovation as part of a DIY project.

Which also matches other descriptions of placing the trim as it should be mounted.
 
No...

Like this:
A miter saw being adjusted for a 45-degree cut, with a focus on precision angle settings for woodworking or trim cutting.

And if it doesn't fit, you can lay it down and adjust the angles according to the table I linked to earlier.

Edit: but I see from your pictures that it fits nicely. Large miter saw or small moldings. So set it according to the picture and cut at 45°.
 
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NiklasH66
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Skalman65 said:
Then I guess it will be like this :confused:
[image]

Which also matches other descriptions to place the strip as it should be mounted.
Yes!
 
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cecar33 and 1 other
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Sorry, read a bit quickly, golv o gera :)
Your last picture is right for the ceiling!!
 
Seriously!? Are you supposed to hold it like that? It looks so wobbly. I was really certain that you should let it rest on both flat surfaces for good stability and the correct angle. I don't think I've ever held it like that.
 
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Joak
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