have read a bit on this forum but still don't quite understand how to do it? I mean if you put up one molding against the wall and are supposed to trace the other's profile, you can't reach it as they are curved on one side. Should you cut one first to get a fit against the other? what angle? Regards, Mia.
okay... so I can saw it at a 45-degree angle, exactly as it should be against the wall/ceiling.
But when I do the opposite then... should I just turn it upside down in the saw and also cut it at a 45-degree angle?
But when I do the opposite then... should I just turn it upside down in the saw and also cut it at a 45-degree angle?
Know-It-All
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Try this:
To saw "red list":
Position the saw at the corner to be cut with the wall in front and place the list in the upright position (as it should be on the wall) and cut at 45[sup]o[/sup] (or whatever angle you need).
To saw "blue list":
Then move the saw to the next wall (same corner) and do the same but the angle should be the opposite (45[sup]o[/sup] the other way).
The yellow in the image is supposed to be a miter box
This is the principle for how you should think to miter "correctly," hope you understand my ... beautiful picture. ;D
Good luck!
To saw "red list":
Position the saw at the corner to be cut with the wall in front and place the list in the upright position (as it should be on the wall) and cut at 45[sup]o[/sup] (or whatever angle you need).
To saw "blue list":
Then move the saw to the next wall (same corner) and do the same but the angle should be the opposite (45[sup]o[/sup] the other way).
The yellow in the image is supposed to be a miter box
This is the principle for how you should think to miter "correctly," hope you understand my ... beautiful picture. ;D
Good luck!
The easiest way if you're a bit uncertain is to first cut all the mouldings and saw them straight so they fit tightly between the walls where they should be placed. Then you can hold them up and mark where you should cut the corners (i.e., where the point should be). Also mark which side is towards the ceiling and which is towards the wall. Then place the moulding in the miter saw with the ceiling side down and the wall side against the fence (so it "stands" with the concave side diagonally up towards you).
Then saw as the line shows, and position the cut so the point of the moulding is at the far end of the finished length; this way, it should fit.
Then it's just a matter of nailing them up.
Good luck.
Then saw as the line shows, and position the cut so the point of the moulding is at the far end of the finished length; this way, it should fit.
Then it's just a matter of nailing them up.
Good luck.
I usually suggest cutting one straight off. I always cut the left side of the corner, i.e., the right side of the left trim, straight off.
The trimming meeting it is cut slightly long. About a trim width+VAT.
After that, miter saw it at 45 degrees on the left side of the trim. The curve formed between the sawed plane and the trim's profile is marked with a pencil.
Then cut along the said curve with a coping saw so that the trim fits exactly against the profile of the left trim. A half-round file can be handy to have.
Finally, measure how long the trim should be and cut it straight off on its right side. This last part is the only really difficult step. Getting the right length on the trim.
With this method, there's a margin of about 5 mm on the length of the trim. If you only miter the inside corners, you must be very precise with the length, and it's doubtful whether it will look good anyway.
The trimming meeting it is cut slightly long. About a trim width+VAT.
After that, miter saw it at 45 degrees on the left side of the trim. The curve formed between the sawed plane and the trim's profile is marked with a pencil.
Then cut along the said curve with a coping saw so that the trim fits exactly against the profile of the left trim. A half-round file can be handy to have.
Finally, measure how long the trim should be and cut it straight off on its right side. This last part is the only really difficult step. Getting the right length on the trim.
With this method, there's a margin of about 5 mm on the length of the trim. If you only miter the inside corners, you must be very precise with the length, and it's doubtful whether it will look good anyway.
Create templates for different inner and outer corners. That way, you avoid having eighteen moldings that are 10 cm too short...
Cut templates at all angles at 10 cm and have them and check in the corner and then down in the saw and see how it should be set up and then miter the molding.
Or easiest of all is to buy blocks to put in the corners so you cut all moldings straight against them. I also think it looks very nice.
Or easiest of all is to buy blocks to put in the corners so you cut all moldings straight against them. I also think it looks very nice.
Could this be helpful? It is available for purchase at Clas Ohlson.
Mitre Angle Hultafors made of fiberglass-reinforced nylon. Provides the correct angle for mitre sawing. Infinitely adjustable to the desired angle with an indicator that halves the angle. For both internal and external angles.
Mitre Angle Hultafors made of fiberglass-reinforced nylon. Provides the correct angle for mitre sawing. Infinitely adjustable to the desired angle with an indicator that halves the angle. For both internal and external angles.
It is probably great for boards and similar. But I have a bit of difficulty understanding how one would be able to use it on a cove molding or other profiled molding.
Know-It-All
· Härifrån
· 789 posts
Oh yes, that works excellently.hempularen said:
I used a similar one to measure the angle of my crooked walls before I sawed, as in my example earlier in the thread.
As Rostig_9000i_-88 said, it works excellently, the only trick is that you have to place the molding correctly in the miter saw. That is, the same way in the miter saw as it will hang on the wall, but you've seen it in the description Rostig_9000i_-88 made.hempularen said:
I have successfully managed to do as MattiasP suggests. Including an instruction from the internet (which Mattias helped me find).
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/print/0,17071,1016651,00.html
I used a circular saw as described. I should add that at first, I was too frugal. Jula sells 2 different saws, one is a Bacho for 129kr, the other is something Chinese or similar for 29kr.
Being as frugal as I am, I chose the cheap saw, which seemed perfectly fine as a scroll saw. But for this operation, it was hopeless, took a long time to saw, and one had no control over the cut.
Went and bought the expensive saw, and instantly succeeded with every cut on the first attempt. Admittedly, I still have to spend a few minutes with the rasp as well. The Bacho saw has a much stiffer blade, can be tensioned more. Additionally, it cuts faster.
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/print/0,17071,1016651,00.html
I used a circular saw as described. I should add that at first, I was too frugal. Jula sells 2 different saws, one is a Bacho for 129kr, the other is something Chinese or similar for 29kr.
Being as frugal as I am, I chose the cheap saw, which seemed perfectly fine as a scroll saw. But for this operation, it was hopeless, took a long time to saw, and one had no control over the cut.
Went and bought the expensive saw, and instantly succeeded with every cut on the first attempt. Admittedly, I still have to spend a few minutes with the rasp as well. The Bacho saw has a much stiffer blade, can be tensioned more. Additionally, it cuts faster.