General joints in plasterboard ceiling, how to solve?

[scrn]

Hi!
I've installed drywall on the walls and ceiling in a newly built 50 sqm garage.

But after reading up (too late), I realize that the end joints of the ceiling drywall should be staggered against each other, and preferably blocked. Unfortunately, I neither staggered nor blocked them. I just barely managed to fit 3 drywall panels in length, which is why I never thought about staggering the seams. Overhead doors are installed, so it's not possible to replace the panels and stagger the seams. Installing blocking could be done if it helps, at least on the drywall panels where the doors are not mounted.

Since it's a newly built garage, I can do some extra work to avoid the risk of cracks in the ceiling. What's the best way to resolve this? I've already bought paper tape and Flügger 380 wet room adhesive. If you recommend another adhesive, I'll switch.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Fotografen]

Yes, it's "wrong," but the boards don't fall down, and if you can tolerate possible cracks between them, I would leave it. Putty, paint.

 

[atomlab]

If you can't tolerate the cracks, just put up a microlit fabric over the mess and paint over it.

 

[Anonymiserad 405730]

Hi!
I have installed drywall on the walls and ceiling in a newly built 50 sqm garage.

However, after reading up (too late), I realize now that the short joints on the ceiling drywall should be staggered from each other, and preferably supported with nogging. Unfortunately, I have neither staggered nor added nogging. I just fit 3 drywall sheets lengthwise, hence I never thought to stagger the joints.

Ceiling doors are installed so it’s not possible to replace sheets and stagger the joints. Adding noggings could be done if it helps. At least on the drywall sheets where the doors aren’t installed.

Since it's a newly built garage, I can do a bit extra to avoid risking cracks in the ceiling. How can I best resolve this? I have already bought paper tape and Flügger 380 wet room adhesive. If you recommend another adhesive, I will switch.

Thanks in advance!

But haven’t you screwed in the short joints then?
Because if you haven’t, nothing will save it except taking them down and making sure there is a furring to screw into..

 

[scrn]

The short joints are only screwed into the sparse panel, meaning with cc 300mm. In a "general joint row" I can take down the boards and mount cross braces, so it sounds like I should do that. I won't have the energy to apply microlit across the entire ceiling. How thick is a microlit? Is it possible to just lay a roll width over the general joint and then putty on both sides?

 

[Anonymiserad 405730]

Aha, you have placed the plasterboard in the same length as the studs..
Yes, you can locally apply microlit and then fill out the difference with spackle..
But it will be visible because there will be different surfaces when you paint..

 

[scrn]

Ok. But if I, for example, cut a 300mm strip of microlit and then also apply filler over it to achieve the same texture?

 

[MathiasS]

Get the sheet profiles available for the short end joints, install them from the top, and screw from underneath into the sheet. You might need to widen the joint if the panels are tightly against each other, but you can easily do that with a multi-tool.

 

[Kasken]

Ok. But if I, for example, cut a 300mm strip of microlit and then also spackle over it to get the same texture?

Don't you feel like you're overthinking it a bit?

It's a garage....

 

[scrn]

Now I've slept on it and calmed down a bit I won't do anything extra; if it cracks, it cracks!

But I need help with the best way to putty and tape. As I said, I will glue the paper tape with wet room adhesive.
Is it best to putty before gluing the tape, or should I glue directly onto the gypsum on both the long and short seams? Do I need to bevel anything on the short sides?

 

[Anonymiserad 405730]

Now I've slept on it and calmed down a bit I'm not going to do anything extra; if it cracks, so be it!

But I need help on how to best putty and apply tape. As I mentioned, I'm going to glue the paper tapes with wet room adhesive.
Is it best to putty before gluing the tape, or should I glue directly onto the gypsum board both on the lengthwise and crosswise seams? Do I need to bevel anything on the short sides if so?

Yes, if you've beveled the gypsum, you'll need to fill it smooth with putty before gluing up the paper tape.

 

[MathiasS]

Fill any gaps with filler, then glue directly onto the gypsum without filler in between. After that, apply filler broadly on both sides of the gap.

 

[scrn]

I have not chamfered anything on the short sides. I interpret that as it's not needed, so I glue directly onto the boards?

 

[Anonymiserad 405730]

I have not beveled anything on the short sides. I interpret that as it's not needed, so I glue directly onto the boards?

Yes, if there are no gaps, you can do that, but the recommendations say that all crosscuts should be beveled and filled with filler.

 

[scrn]

If the result is better by chamfering the joints and filling them before I glue the strips, then I will do it. Or are those recommendations based on the strips being fastened with filler?