Gap between door frame and door trim.

[Ett_unikt_namn]

Hello,

How do I fix this? The door frame is slightly offset in the doorway, creating a gap of about 5 mm between the door frame and the intended door trim.

Should I fill the gaps with plaster (caulk will probably indent) and repaint the door trims? This is a craft in itself and the result might not be very good.

A stepped trim would fit, but then I would have to match it with the other doors, and at the very least remove some lightweight concrete to fit the stepped trim between the wall and the door frame.

 

[Pappa1986]

Can't you just move the door?
The alternative is to saw a small trim (smyg) to fit in.

 

[tttomten]

There are really only two ways that work well, base shoe or saddle up. That said, the result is similar, the job will be somewhat faster if you find a molding with the right base.

edit, yes except for moving the door or replacing the frame.

 

[Ett_unikt_namn]

There are really only two ways that work well, rabbeted trim or to raise it up. That said, the result is quite similar, the job gets a bit quicker if you find a trim with the right rabbet.

edit, yes, apart from moving the door or changing the frame.

What does raise it up mean? That you insert a molding in the gap?

 

[tttomten]

What does saddling up mean? Does it mean inserting a trim to cover the gap?

Yes, exactly.
There might be a technical difference for the carpenter, but for the rest of us, it's probably the same thing. Moreover, it's probably actually called 'sala'

 

[Himax]

Mount the door correctly. Then any gap will instead be on the other side against the wall, if the wall is not straight, but the door is. Or mount the door completely flush with the surrounding wall, and tighten the hinges so the door leaf doesn't close by itself.

 

[Ett_unikt_namn]

Mount the door correctly. Then any gap will be on the other side towards the wall instead, if the wall is not straight, but the door is. Or mount the door completely flush with the surrounding wall, and tighten the hinges so the leaf doesn't close itself.

Unfortunately, I don't know what flush means. And I don't understand your explanation. But I could move the door frame sideways to fit in a trim.

 

[Pappa1986]

Unfortunately, I don't know what flush means. And I don't understand your explanation.
But I could move the door frame sideways to fit in a klackfoder.

But can't you move the door so that it is flush with the plaster?

 

[pennybridge]

Just put up the white-lacquered moldings.

This is how I've done it in all the rooms I've renovated after installing renovation gypsum, which adds 6mm.

 

[Ett_unikt_namn]

But can't you move the door so that it aligns with the drywall?

There is aerated concrete on the sides and drywall above (there used to be a plastic top for the door before).

Now I see that it's just the top part of the drywall that protrudes over the door frame and causes the problem. So I will somehow gouge out the drywall just where the casings will go.

 

[Ett_unikt_namn]

I also want to cut 45-degree trims for the door frame without a miter saw.
I hope to somehow overlap or place the trims on top of each other and then saw through both trims at the same cut and angle so that they will complement each other and fit exactly.

 

[Ett_unikt_namn]

Just put up some white-painted moldings.

This is how I've done it in all the rooms I've renovated after putting up renovation plasterboard that adds 6mm.

[image]

Thanks for the response! I just noticed that it's only the top part of my plasterboard that's causing issues. I'll try to carve out the plasterboard where the casings are supposed to go.

 

[Pappa1986]

I also want to cut 45-degree moldings for the door frame without a miter saw.
I hope to somehow cross or lay the moldings on each other and then saw through both moldings in the same cut and angle so that they will complement each other and fit exactly.

Use your 45 degrees on the handsaw, and it'll work fine

 

[Urban R]

Latex

 

[Geschwindt]

Hello,

How do I fix this? The door frame is slightly displaced into the doorway, creating a gap of about 5 mm between the door frame and the intended door trim.

Should I fill the gaps with putty (sealant will probably bulge) and repaint the door trim?
This is a craft in itself, and the result might not be so good.

A back-beveled trim would fit, but I would need to match it with the other doors, and remove some lightweight concrete so I can fit the back-beveled trim between the wall and the door frame.

I would have gotten a white sealing strip (8x30mm) and split it in half so you keep the rounding, split it down if needed. Then insert it into the gap and let it protrude 4 mm on the frame so it creates a transition, instead of an impossible seam that needs to be managed with putty and paint..