The image "from the front" shows the gable of a garage with two doors. Two windows on the upper floor. There are no walls inside the building, only a large garage on the ground floor and a large room on the upper floor. The gable will be reinforced with plywood on both the inside and outside of the framework.
The opposite gable only has openings for a door and a window. It will be reinforced with plywood on the outside and OSB on the inside of the framework.
The image "from below" shows the corner seen from below. Red is the sill.
The sidewall is 4.5 meters high and 10 meters long. The gables are 6 meters long. The exposure to southern wind is 100%. The location on top of a mountain is wind-exposed.
I was thinking of anchoring tightly with chemical anchors.
Will this hold, or should I add a steel reinforcement next to the doors?
The opposite gable only has openings for a door and a window. It will be reinforced with plywood on the outside and OSB on the inside of the framework.
The image "from below" shows the corner seen from below. Red is the sill.
The sidewall is 4.5 meters high and 10 meters long. The gables are 6 meters long. The exposure to southern wind is 100%. The location on top of a mountain is wind-exposed.
I was thinking of anchoring tightly with chemical anchors.
Will this hold, or should I add a steel reinforcement next to the doors?
Light beams resting against the ridge beam. See image.
The floor structure is not visible on this. Nor is the opposite gable.
The floor structure is not visible on this. Nor is the opposite gable.
Last edited:
Gables are normally the right side to make large openings. The floor joists are not affected and standard trusses rest only on the side walls.
In your case with a ridge beam, you need to review. You can get a pretty good indication via the Swedish Wood dimensioning tool. However, you should consult with a designer if you get a starting clearance without K-drawings.
What is immediately noticeable is that the post supporting the ridge beam is too weak. Double 45mm is not common to support half the roof with. When I enter your data, the program encounters significant problems with your ridge beam. Everything is possible but there are great advantages with traditional trusses with a collar tie instead. If not, I would consider relieving the ridge beam with a central post as well.
I prefer a construction where rafters are laid on top of the ridge beam; often there is sufficient height and there are significant advantages from a load-bearing perspective to skip joist hangers, making it easier to install insulation and reduce thermal bridging.
In your case with a ridge beam, you need to review. You can get a pretty good indication via the Swedish Wood dimensioning tool. However, you should consult with a designer if you get a starting clearance without K-drawings.
What is immediately noticeable is that the post supporting the ridge beam is too weak. Double 45mm is not common to support half the roof with. When I enter your data, the program encounters significant problems with your ridge beam. Everything is possible but there are great advantages with traditional trusses with a collar tie instead. If not, I would consider relieving the ridge beam with a central post as well.
I prefer a construction where rafters are laid on top of the ridge beam; often there is sufficient height and there are significant advantages from a load-bearing perspective to skip joist hangers, making it easier to install insulation and reduce thermal bridging.
I fed the data into the wood guide's program and got the dimensions for the ridge beam, which were then verified with the beam manufacturer. I double-checked to ensure that this beam dimension wasn't the strongest beam they make...
But sure, it's on the edge. One heavier snow zone and it's not enough. A winter like the one we had in 2010 would likely require roof shoveling or a brace in the middle under the ridge beam. The deflection of the ridge beam is 47 mm under full load in snow zone 1. A piece of wood can withstand significantly more bending before breaking.
The area on which everything rests is quite small, i.e., the cross-section of the posts, but from what I've found, it's sufficient. 1.75 dm2. 1.3 dm is what the wood guide considers to be okay. This is compared to wood handling 7 MPa 90 degrees to the grain direction, which is a bit over 12,000 kg on 1.75 dm2. However, the column supporting the beam must, of course, be braced if it is longer than a couple of meters.
What worries me is the wind load. The location is exposed, so better strength against wind load than usual should be ensured.
But sure, it's on the edge. One heavier snow zone and it's not enough. A winter like the one we had in 2010 would likely require roof shoveling or a brace in the middle under the ridge beam. The deflection of the ridge beam is 47 mm under full load in snow zone 1. A piece of wood can withstand significantly more bending before breaking.
The area on which everything rests is quite small, i.e., the cross-section of the posts, but from what I've found, it's sufficient. 1.75 dm2. 1.3 dm is what the wood guide considers to be okay. This is compared to wood handling 7 MPa 90 degrees to the grain direction, which is a bit over 12,000 kg on 1.75 dm2. However, the column supporting the beam must, of course, be braced if it is longer than a couple of meters.
What worries me is the wind load. The location is exposed, so better strength against wind load than usual should be ensured.
Click here to reply
Similar threads
-
Heavy-duty hinges for large swing gates
Building Materials and Construction Technology -
Garageportar med bucklor och olika stora paneler?
Juridik -
Bygga stora slagportar i trä - tips / ritningar
Fönster & Dörrar -
Stora slagportar - Virke m.m.
Attefallshus, friggebod, garage & andra småhus -
Stora fönster i takkupa / gavel??
Fönster & Dörrar