"Fake beams" in wood.

[jordraketen]

Anyone have any good ideas on the best way to go about installing "faux beams" in wood in, for example, a kitchen ceiling? It's going to be a typical country kitchen with paneling in the ceiling. It's a new build so it would be great to do it right from the start. For example, how close they should be placed to look good. The room is about 5.5 x 3.9m. Normal ceiling height. 1 floor. Any other considerations, etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Tossegubbe]

I think they should be placed in the same direction and with the same distance as the real roof trusses above are.
I usually make the "beams" from planed panel that I glue together into a U-profile.

 

[jordraketen]

What do you mean by "bilad" panel??
Should you screw them directly into the studwork and then put up the panel "around"?
You mean that they are "hollow" right? Then you could maybe put spotlights in them too...

 

[Jan-Å]

Had such a ceiling in the first house. We built the beams as U-boxes from planks and milled a nice edge. Nailed to the girders, it turned out very nice.

 

[Tossegubbe]

It is called that, and it is a type of panel that looks like timber, i.e. "axed" on the outside. I usually put the panel first and then the beams on top of it, but depending on how it looks overall, you can have short panel pieces between them as well. How to fix them is more a technical question than a practical one. You can use long screws and drive into the glesen or angle screw into the panel. You can also have large visible French bolts that you paint the head black to give a really rustic look. Personally, I think it's wrong to put a spotlight in a beam because it's not possible in a real beam, but as said, it depends on how picky you are about whether it should look genuine or just decorative, right?

What do you mean by "hewn" panel?? Should you screw them directly into the glesen and then put up the panel "around it"? You mean that they are "hollow," right? Then you could maybe put spotlights in them too...

 

[jordraketen]

Thank you for that.
It might be best to have it on the panel first so it's "underneath" all the way if for some reason you want to remove the "bjälkarna."
Yeah, I've also thought that maybe it doesn't quite fit to have spots in them if they're supposed to look old. But as said, it's a matter of taste.
Are the "bjälkarna" built from 22mm boards?

 

[Tossegubbe]

There are both 22 and 28mm thickness available, I strongly recommend using 28mm as it is much nicer to work with. There will be some ripping and sawing, but if you have a decent table saw, it goes quickly.

Thanks for that. It's probably best to have the panel first so you have it "underneath" all the way if for some reason you want to remove the "beams". Yes, I've also thought that it might not quite fit to have spotlights in them if they are supposed to look old. But as mentioned, it's a matter of taste. Are the boards 22mm then, which the "beams" are built from?

 

[Jan-Å]

Depends on how the panel is mounted on the ceiling, we first installed strips and then the panel (with the same milling along the edge) with about 200 mm of the strips visible. If you want to mount the faux beams on top of that panel, you need to cover the hole that appears at each strip or cut out the beams for each panel board. It's much easier to place the beams in the strips and join the panel at the beam.
I don't remember the thickness of the beam; we built them from the panel boards.

 

[jordraketen]

Jan-Å:

Well, it's definitely better to put the beams first and panel in between. It should result in less waste and no ugly joints. Which direction do you normally install ceiling panels, lengthwise or crosswise? Or is it more a matter of taste?

 

[Tossegubbe]

As it was "before," it was normal to nail about 1" beadboard directly to the rafters (i.e., across) and then lay paper on top of this and fill up with sawdust. If you want a thinner panel than 22mm, 1200cc rafters become too sparse.

Jan-Å:

Yes, it is indeed much better to set the beams first and panel between.
There should be less waste and no annoying joints.
Which way do you normally set the ceiling panel, lengthwise or across?
Or is it more a matter of taste?

 

[Jan-Å]

Should result in less waste and no boring joints.
Which direction is ceiling paneling usually installed, lengthwise or crosswise?
Or is it more a matter of taste?

Lengthwise in the house is the usual for both ceilings and floors, but it's not a rule you absolutely must follow. It also depends on how the room looks; install it so it "feels right" when you're in the room.

 

[jordraketen]

That's how I've reasoned too. After all, I'm the one who's going to look at it when it's finished.
But if you want the panel in the same direction as the glesen, you have to screw battens across and nail the panel in?

 

[magnu]

Keep in mind that there are real "fuskbjälkar" available for purchase that are made of polystyrene. They look really realistic. Very easy to install!

 

[jordraketen]

Heard about it, but how durable are they?
They should hopefully stay there for a while.
If you were to accidentally hit them with something, for example.
Probably not a big risk but not entirely impossible either.
Who sells those? It wouldn't hurt to take a look at them.

 

[magnu]

I think I saw them at Bauhaus.
As accessories, there are "järnbeslag" in rubber, just nail them up.

If you "break apart" your roof beam, you can just buy a new one.