Well, for example, those boards visible under the window are not part of the frame. They end under the window and have no load-bearing function.Jvona said:
Remove one to get an idea of how the moisture has spread behind them.
In that case, you will likely see the extent of the moisture damage when you tear down the eternit in the spring. You may not need to do more than stop the leakage and dry out as much as possible right now. Have an expert inspect on-site, as that is the only way to give good advice.
In the first picture, it looks like there is leakage on the left side where the strip does not cover the flashing. In the second picture, it looks black under the flashing so I would have checked more carefully there. It should also be visible just by opening the window.
In general, I think the metalwork looks fine. I believe the culprit in this case is wind. It causes water to flow/push upwards/to the sides/into gaps/yes, basically everywhere it can get in. In such cases, a good normal metalwork/metal covering may not be sufficient, and it's important to seal every gap. This has already been suggested and you're working on addressing it, so that's good.
Do the windows open inward?
What do the seals around the window look like?
If the seals aren't good/intact everywhere, water can be pushed in that way as well.
The black you see on the boards is not mold but discoloration.
Since this leakage probably only occurred during driving rain, it hasn't been constantly wet and should have dried out in between. Since there's no insulation on the outside, drying/ventilation should have allowed the boards to be okay despite the discoloration. You need to check that the wood is okay (= not rotten) by pressing with a Morakniv/awl or something similar to ensure the wood isn't soft. When the windows are replaced and there's no more leaking, you can clean with Boracol (and let it dry properly, of course) before you finish the interior walls and wallpaper.
The standing 50mm boards are the building’s load-bearing frame.
Do the windows open inward?
What do the seals around the window look like?
If the seals aren't good/intact everywhere, water can be pushed in that way as well.
The black you see on the boards is not mold but discoloration.
Since this leakage probably only occurred during driving rain, it hasn't been constantly wet and should have dried out in between. Since there's no insulation on the outside, drying/ventilation should have allowed the boards to be okay despite the discoloration. You need to check that the wood is okay (= not rotten) by pressing with a Morakniv/awl or something similar to ensure the wood isn't soft. When the windows are replaced and there's no more leaking, you can clean with Boracol (and let it dry properly, of course) before you finish the interior walls and wallpaper.
The standing 50mm boards are the building’s load-bearing frame.
HelloOldboy said:
Today I checked and replaced some of the rubber seals; some were really bad.
I've also sealed with outdoor caulk and silicone in every conceivable gap.
Finished by pulling a substantial bead around the window and then closed it.
The windows open outwards, pivot windows.
I set up a 2 kW construction heater last night, and everything is dry now, at least it feels that way.
I tried scraping a bit with a knife, and it's solid, about 1 mm of wood could be scratched off, and it was healthy underneath.
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