Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
Hi, first and foremost (there may be more 
) I have 2 questions that I've been pondering quite a bit that I don't fully understand:
1. If you are going to build a cabin with, let's say, framework trusses for simplicity's sake, and then let the building have the shape of an L or T from above, meaning you have to join the trusses at a 90-degree angle, how do you usually proceed when fastening the trusses together, and when laying the tongue-and-groove boards, roofing felt, and sheet metal? Does anyone have good images of this? (pictures speak more than a thousand words )
2. If you are going to build a two-story house regardless of truss type, how do you usually attach the joists for the floor level? (upper) Do you typically first build a wall about 2.5 meters up, then place horizontal joists across, and then build a new sill and wall on top of that? Alternatively, build the walls to full height first and then place horizontal joists between the standing studs at the appropriate height, if so, what are some good fastening possibilities for this that are durable in the long run?
Hope YOU understand what I mean with the questions and can teach me a little more about construction that can be useful for any future construction(s) d^_^b
) I have 2 questions that I've been pondering quite a bit that I don't fully understand:1. If you are going to build a cabin with, let's say, framework trusses for simplicity's sake, and then let the building have the shape of an L or T from above, meaning you have to join the trusses at a 90-degree angle, how do you usually proceed when fastening the trusses together, and when laying the tongue-and-groove boards, roofing felt, and sheet metal? Does anyone have good images of this? (pictures speak more than a thousand words
)2. If you are going to build a two-story house regardless of truss type, how do you usually attach the joists for the floor level? (upper) Do you typically first build a wall about 2.5 meters up, then place horizontal joists across, and then build a new sill and wall on top of that? Alternatively, build the walls to full height first and then place horizontal joists between the standing studs at the appropriate height, if so, what are some good fastening possibilities for this that are durable in the long run?
Hope YOU understand what I mean with the questions and can teach me a little more about construction that can be useful for any future construction(s) d^_^b
1. You first set up the trusses of one roof, then lay the tongue and groove boards on it, and then you do the next roof.
And have smaller and smaller trusses so that you get the right shape of the roof (outrigger trusses).
Between these you "brace", that is, on top of the first tongue and groove boards, and lay tongue and groove boards on the next roof, this tongue and groove is attached to the bracing.
There are surely more ways to solve it...
2. If building two full floors, you first make a wall, then the floor joists extend on this, then a new wall with a new wall plate as you write...
If building a raised wall frame, you can have full exterior wall studs/posts, and inside these, you lay on a 2"2 installation layer. And there, a beam for the joist. The joist then gets a 45mm bearing in the outer wall.
Alternatively, you build the joist and lift it in with a crane truck, and then with joist hangers.
Or a 2"2 on the underside of a 2"9, the joists are notched and laid on this 2"2.
The 2"9 is screwed into the wall studs that go all the way to the roof trusses.
And have smaller and smaller trusses so that you get the right shape of the roof (outrigger trusses).
Between these you "brace", that is, on top of the first tongue and groove boards, and lay tongue and groove boards on the next roof, this tongue and groove is attached to the bracing.
There are surely more ways to solve it...
2. If building two full floors, you first make a wall, then the floor joists extend on this, then a new wall with a new wall plate as you write...
If building a raised wall frame, you can have full exterior wall studs/posts, and inside these, you lay on a 2"2 installation layer. And there, a beam for the joist. The joist then gets a 45mm bearing in the outer wall.
Alternatively, you build the joist and lift it in with a crane truck, and then with joist hangers.
Or a 2"2 on the underside of a 2"9, the joists are notched and laid on this 2"2.
The 2"9 is screwed into the wall studs that go all the way to the roof trusses.
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
JOW: 1. Do you mean to first leave, say, for example, 3.60 meters between the trusses (for example, in the middle if it's a T), then lay the raw board in between on both sides, then from the other direction let the other raw board meet it, how do you then fasten the ends of the raw boards together? Do you usually cut the raw board ends at an angle so the ends are against the "first roof," or do you leave a little air around it? Wouldn't you then have to cut up the raw board from the inside, on the part that will extend (in the middle)? It sounds like quite an advanced procedure, like getting smaller and smaller trusses that fit (I've done some carpentry, but try to keep it simple )
2. Am I understanding correctly that you mean (as I had a thought) that you can place, for example, standing 45x220 (say 5m high), then nail standing 45x45 on the inside that are 2.50 high, and lay horizontal beams, for example, 45x220 or smaller across the top? Should you then also attach flat bars on the sides together with the standing studs, or other metal? Can you not do it this way even if it concerns 2 full floors instead? Unfortunately, I don't exactly understand what you mean at the end with lifting in joists with a crane truck.
)2. Am I understanding correctly that you mean (as I had a thought) that you can place, for example, standing 45x220 (say 5m high), then nail standing 45x45 on the inside that are 2.50 high, and lay horizontal beams, for example, 45x220 or smaller across the top? Should you then also attach flat bars on the sides together with the standing studs, or other metal? Can you not do it this way even if it concerns 2 full floors instead? Unfortunately, I don't exactly understand what you mean at the end with lifting in joists with a crane truck.
1. No, you build the entire roof, 1.2m cc, the overhang trusses are nailed with 5" or screwed into the trusses below. The short pieces are placed on the roof decking between the overhang trusses. This way, the roof decking on the next roof has something to attach to. On a T-shaped roof, you preferably start with the "crossbar" of the T and then proceed to the bottom piece. Then you put a sheet on the roof decking that goes up on both roofs, "flashing," roof paper, battens, valley flashing, and then tiles.
2. 45x220 on the inside as the beam layer can have as a support can be screwed into the posts. 45x45 can be placed horizontally on the inside to minimize thermal bridges. Then you screw OSB/Plywood horizontally, and thereafter vertical gypsum. A vapor barrier is placed between the load-bearing posts and 45x45.
The mention of a crane truck was if you want to build the beam structure in ready-made modules that you lift in using a crane truck. If you do so, you end up without support, and thus use joist hangers or a 45x45 screwed at the bottom against a 45x220. The beams are notched out for the 45x45 and laid on the screwed 45x45, and the beams are angled-screwed into the 45x220 which you screw into the posts in the exterior wall...
That probably needs to be read at least 10 times to understand, it seems... I almost started to wonder what I wrote while writing it...
2. 45x220 on the inside as the beam layer can have as a support can be screwed into the posts. 45x45 can be placed horizontally on the inside to minimize thermal bridges. Then you screw OSB/Plywood horizontally, and thereafter vertical gypsum. A vapor barrier is placed between the load-bearing posts and 45x45.
The mention of a crane truck was if you want to build the beam structure in ready-made modules that you lift in using a crane truck. If you do so, you end up without support, and thus use joist hangers or a 45x45 screwed at the bottom against a 45x220. The beams are notched out for the 45x45 and laid on the screwed 45x45, and the beams are angled-screwed into the 45x220 which you screw into the posts in the exterior wall...
That probably needs to be read at least 10 times to understand, it seems... I almost started to wonder what I wrote while writing it...
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
Hmm
1. So this "kortling" needs to be planed at a certain angle to fit the tongue that forms the bottom of the T? If I'm thinking correctly, it should be planed to 45 degrees, i.e., a triangular strip, or am I wrong? I largely understand what you mean, but doesn't your construction allow freedom to walk on the entire upper floor then? How do you handle the rafters that end up in the middle of the top part of the T, above the lower part? Those rafters need to be cut if you want an open room?
2. Now I don't understand what you mean by 45x220 "on the inside?" inside of what?
I was planning to have 45x45 laying to run electricity, yes... on the inside, and a vapor barrier outside this...
Possibly also laying 45x45 on the outside of the vertical studs, which gives you 310mm thick walls, which is reasonably sensible energy-wise?
In my garage I have vertical OSB but planned to place the drywall offset by 60cm outside, should work well too, or why specifically horizontal OSB/Plywood?
1. So this "kortling" needs to be planed at a certain angle to fit the tongue that forms the bottom of the T? If I'm thinking correctly, it should be planed to 45 degrees, i.e., a triangular strip, or am I wrong? I largely understand what you mean, but doesn't your construction allow freedom to walk on the entire upper floor then? How do you handle the rafters that end up in the middle of the top part of the T, above the lower part? Those rafters need to be cut if you want an open room?
2. Now I don't understand what you mean by 45x220 "on the inside?" inside of what?
I was planning to have 45x45 laying to run electricity, yes... on the inside, and a vapor barrier outside this...
Possibly also laying 45x45 on the outside of the vertical studs, which gives you 310mm thick walls, which is reasonably sensible energy-wise?
In my garage I have vertical OSB but planned to place the drywall offset by 60cm outside, should work well too, or why specifically horizontal OSB/Plywood?
1. It doesn't need to be split at a certain angle. As long as the nail you use to fasten the "råspont" catches onto something and there's support behind it.
I didn't know you wanted a "ryggåstak." Then you have to build a bit differently if you want to keep the "attic" completely open. It would then involve some sort of beam at the ridge and posts at the gables, and in this case, a post to the foundation where the ridges meet.
2. You use horizontal 2"2 on the inside to break the thermal bridge of the wood. I'm building/built with horizontal 2"3 on the outside and vertical 2"7 posts (load-bearing) and horizontal 2"2 on the inside (installation wall).
See the attached View attachment Draw1 - Sheet1.pdf regarding the flooring:
The left one, 45x220 as support, is built on-site.
The middle one, 45x220 is screwed into the posts, the beams are attached with joist hangers, can be built in advance and lifted in.
The right one, 45x45 screwed onto 45x220 which is screwed onto the posts, the beams are notched out of 45x45 and placed on 45x45 and toenail into 45x220 (the carrier beam), can be built in advance and lifted in.
I didn't know you wanted a "ryggåstak." Then you have to build a bit differently if you want to keep the "attic" completely open. It would then involve some sort of beam at the ridge and posts at the gables, and in this case, a post to the foundation where the ridges meet.
2. You use horizontal 2"2 on the inside to break the thermal bridge of the wood. I'm building/built with horizontal 2"3 on the outside and vertical 2"7 posts (load-bearing) and horizontal 2"2 on the inside (installation wall).
See the attached View attachment Draw1 - Sheet1.pdf regarding the flooring:
The left one, 45x220 as support, is built on-site.
The middle one, 45x220 is screwed into the posts, the beams are attached with joist hangers, can be built in advance and lifted in.
The right one, 45x45 screwed onto 45x220 which is screwed onto the posts, the beams are notched out of 45x45 and placed on 45x45 and toenail into 45x220 (the carrier beam), can be built in advance and lifted in.
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
1. No, you didn't know that I meant cathedral ceiling, but I believe that if you don't have a cathedral ceiling, it's not worth building that type of roof at all. However, as I said, it seems quite complicated to build this type of roof, so I probably won't go for that solution, but now I know a bit more about how to proceed, so thank you! It's pretty fun to tackle things you don't know how to do though
2. As I said, a picture says more than 1000 words Now I understand what you meant by screwing 45x220 into standing studs, but in that case, what type of screws do you use for it to be a really durable solution? It feels like theoretically over, say 100 years, the screws could rust and thus the entire upper floor could basically collapse? Now I don't think that would happen, but it does occur, I know a house nearby where they built a new bathroom on the upper floor and it became apparently so heavy that the floor collapsed in, it sounds strange but that's what happened. My idea was instead to nail short standing 45x45 studs on 45x220 to lay horizontal studs on top, if you then want a horizontal 45x45 for electrical installation inside, you can build it. If you don't nail 45x45 above horizontal studs, the wall will be thinner there, but you do as you like then.
I also know that joist hangers as the middle option are okay, I've been considering that as well. But with this solution, it's probably difficult to attach horizontal 45x220 against standing studs, or how do you solve this? Do you toenail it somehow, I mean, if you lift the entire floor afterwards?
The last option is thus the same method as joist hangers but only solved with screws?
I will probably build the floor with CC60 just as I ultimately chose to do on my garage, where I've planned to lay tongue and groove boards as flooring on the "loft", it's a storage and not a proper upper floor where someone will live.
It feels like the left option is the most convenient, but in that case, I wonder what type of screw you recommend and how many for each standing stud?
Horizontal studs for flooring hardly need to be 45x220 if you're going to have CC60, or what is recommended?
In my garage, I have 45x120, but they are built into the trusses, and there I have chosen to reinforce afterward by screwing 21x120 on each side, so now they are 45+21+21=87x120 thick. It basically has to do with it being the first time I'm building, and I've had to learn and adapt along the way, but it's still a good solution, I think.
My future plans concern recreational/residential houses with a proper upper floor.
Another question; the horizontal stud at the top left in your 3 sketches, I can't remember what it's called now, but why is it always built that way, and is there a reason it's always at the outermost and not on the inside, for example? I was aware of the construction when I built my garage, but then I chose to just have horizontal wall plates on top of standing CC60 studs, then I've had standing OSB boards inside as I said.
If you build like your left option, is it then recommended to screw metal plates in the T-junction wall/floor, from both or one side? In the garage, where I've joined, I've screwed plates from both sides, but screwed into different holes so the screws don't meet in the middle of the stud, I used anchor screws from Biltema, the only ones they sold here were 35mm long.
Last question, isn't it a bit difficult to attach horizontal 45x70 to standing studs, do you then nail? (sorry for using mm, you seem more familiar with inches and I'm not ) Should one have standing 220mm load-bearing, 45mm horizontal outer and inner, and a standing 45mm under the horizontal stud, you can do that if you like, then the wall becomes 355mm thick, I have read in a letter from the municipality that for passive houses, walls should be 400mm thick and roofs 500mm thick, I think it was.. then you can get an energy grant or something similar for a few thousand (I don't remember if it was 10-25 thousand something like that). But it only applies to newly built residential houses, I believe, and mine will be a holiday home, and I'm not interested in such thick solutions, but of course, you recoup the money for insulation if you're going to live there for 50 years...
2. As I said, a picture says more than 1000 words
Now I understand what you meant by screwing 45x220 into standing studs, but in that case, what type of screws do you use for it to be a really durable solution? It feels like theoretically over, say 100 years, the screws could rust and thus the entire upper floor could basically collapse? Now I don't think that would happen, but it does occur, I know a house nearby where they built a new bathroom on the upper floor and it became apparently so heavy that the floor collapsed in, it sounds strange but that's what happened. My idea was instead to nail short standing 45x45 studs on 45x220 to lay horizontal studs on top, if you then want a horizontal 45x45 for electrical installation inside, you can build it. If you don't nail 45x45 above horizontal studs, the wall will be thinner there, but you do as you like then.I also know that joist hangers as the middle option are okay, I've been considering that as well. But with this solution, it's probably difficult to attach horizontal 45x220 against standing studs, or how do you solve this? Do you toenail it somehow, I mean, if you lift the entire floor afterwards?
The last option is thus the same method as joist hangers but only solved with screws?
I will probably build the floor with CC60 just as I ultimately chose to do on my garage, where I've planned to lay tongue and groove boards as flooring on the "loft", it's a storage and not a proper upper floor where someone will live.
It feels like the left option is the most convenient, but in that case, I wonder what type of screw you recommend and how many for each standing stud?
Horizontal studs for flooring hardly need to be 45x220 if you're going to have CC60, or what is recommended?
In my garage, I have 45x120, but they are built into the trusses, and there I have chosen to reinforce afterward by screwing 21x120 on each side, so now they are 45+21+21=87x120 thick. It basically has to do with it being the first time I'm building, and I've had to learn and adapt along the way, but it's still a good solution, I think.
My future plans concern recreational/residential houses with a proper upper floor.
Another question; the horizontal stud at the top left in your 3 sketches, I can't remember what it's called now, but why is it always built that way, and is there a reason it's always at the outermost and not on the inside, for example? I was aware of the construction when I built my garage, but then I chose to just have horizontal wall plates on top of standing CC60 studs, then I've had standing OSB boards inside as I said.
If you build like your left option, is it then recommended to screw metal plates in the T-junction wall/floor, from both or one side? In the garage, where I've joined, I've screwed plates from both sides, but screwed into different holes so the screws don't meet in the middle of the stud, I used anchor screws from Biltema, the only ones they sold here were 35mm long.
Last question, isn't it a bit difficult to attach horizontal 45x70 to standing studs, do you then nail? (sorry for using mm, you seem more familiar with inches and I'm not
) Should one have standing 220mm load-bearing, 45mm horizontal outer and inner, and a standing 45mm under the horizontal stud, you can do that if you like, then the wall becomes 355mm thick, I have read in a letter from the municipality that for passive houses, walls should be 400mm thick and roofs 500mm thick, I think it was.. then you can get an energy grant or something similar for a few thousand (I don't remember if it was 10-25 thousand something like that). But it only applies to newly built residential houses, I believe, and mine will be a holiday home, and I'm not interested in such thick solutions, but of course, you recoup the money for insulation if you're going to live there for 50 years...Trying to answer in order...
1.
The appearance of the building can, for example, depend on what floor plan one wants or angles outdoors.
I see no obligation to have a vaulted ceiling just because you have a wing or elbow house.
My own opinion is that it is more charming if you have a vaulted ceiling somewhere in the house instead of everywhere...
2.
I screwed 2-3 6x120 TFT Jetting screws into each post that the beamline passed.
The joists are nailed with 3 5" nails from the outside on the beamline, then angle screwed after the crane truck lifted in the intermediate floor.
What says that your 2"2 can't come loose from the wall?
Joist hangers, attached horizontally to vertical studs... angle screw/lift in the joist afterwards:
It is not certain that the posts in the outer wall land directly opposite the joists.
The final option is not solved with screws, it's fastened with screws
Yes, cc 60 is standard.
But the length of the beam affects the choice of dimension more than the cc measurement.
Roughly (maybe someone thinks I'm wrong, what do I know, this can be detailed more on the forum, but an approximation gives) 4m span 45x220, 3m span 45x195, 2.5m 45x170, 2m 45x145. (approximately) Then it depends on insulation requirements (intermediate floor or crawl space), ventilation/pipe routing etc...
Regarding your garage truss bottom chord, it is not meant to carry load, but the truss pushes out the walls when it receives a load. The bottom chord acts as a tie rod and counteracts the walls being pushed out, if the walls can't be pushed out, the truss peak doesn't go down. Imagine an equilateral triangle standing on its base, place a load on the tip, what happens?
The standing plank in the wall plate can lie outward or inward, it doesn't matter.
In my case, it lies on the outside because I built the house's entire walls lying on the slab (with cladding and everything). And raised it with a crane truck. Hence easier to place it from the outside, as lying down it becomes from above...
If you've calculated so that the trusses land directly above the posts in the outer wall, you don't need a standing plank in the wall plate.
However, this plank can provide some lateral stability. But not only that, you need either exterior sheathing or bracing on the inside or outside to achieve wind stiffness until you've sheathed the interior walls.
I would guess you mean angle brackets, but I wouldn't have used those; I would have angle screwed the beam down into the beamline. And after that fixed a temporary tongue-and-groove board or 28x70 or 45x45 or whatever is available on top, above the beamline, and in connection with that make sure the beams are vertical.
Then you can shortling in 2"2 at the outer wall as support for the floor chipboard.
But it's not wrong to use angle brackets there...
It depends a bit on the truss's construction, how much it pushes out the wall if there is a lot of snow/weight on it. Then the intermediate floor can act as a bottom chord and hold the wall together...
But usually with elevated wall height, you install a ridge beam of glued laminated timber to meet deflection requirements for trusses in residential buildings.
My exterior 45x70 is nailed with 5" nails into standing 45x170.
But it's fine to screw directly in as well, if you like that...
Outside this exterior sheathing. Then 20x45 air gap & cladding.
You don't need 45x220 in the frame for strength.
Also consider that 45x220 is more cumbersome to carry, handle, saw, etc.
If the goal is 45+220+45+45=355 mm insulation, you can consider a wall of:
horizontal 45x70, vertical 45x145, horizontal 45x70, vapor barrier, vertical 45x45.
But then you'll have to determine if the goal is a holiday home or permanent residence.
That can determine how much money should be spent on insulation.
1.
The appearance of the building can, for example, depend on what floor plan one wants or angles outdoors.
I see no obligation to have a vaulted ceiling just because you have a wing or elbow house.
My own opinion is that it is more charming if you have a vaulted ceiling somewhere in the house instead of everywhere...
2.
I screwed 2-3 6x120 TFT Jetting screws into each post that the beamline passed.
The joists are nailed with 3 5" nails from the outside on the beamline, then angle screwed after the crane truck lifted in the intermediate floor.
What says that your 2"2 can't come loose from the wall?
Joist hangers, attached horizontally to vertical studs... angle screw/lift in the joist afterwards:
It is not certain that the posts in the outer wall land directly opposite the joists.
The final option is not solved with screws, it's fastened with screws
Yes, cc 60 is standard.
But the length of the beam affects the choice of dimension more than the cc measurement.
Roughly (maybe someone thinks I'm wrong, what do I know, this can be detailed more on the forum, but an approximation gives) 4m span 45x220, 3m span 45x195, 2.5m 45x170, 2m 45x145. (approximately) Then it depends on insulation requirements (intermediate floor or crawl space), ventilation/pipe routing etc...
Regarding your garage truss bottom chord, it is not meant to carry load, but the truss pushes out the walls when it receives a load. The bottom chord acts as a tie rod and counteracts the walls being pushed out, if the walls can't be pushed out, the truss peak doesn't go down. Imagine an equilateral triangle standing on its base, place a load on the tip, what happens?
The standing plank in the wall plate can lie outward or inward, it doesn't matter.
In my case, it lies on the outside because I built the house's entire walls lying on the slab (with cladding and everything). And raised it with a crane truck. Hence easier to place it from the outside, as lying down it becomes from above...
If you've calculated so that the trusses land directly above the posts in the outer wall, you don't need a standing plank in the wall plate.
However, this plank can provide some lateral stability. But not only that, you need either exterior sheathing or bracing on the inside or outside to achieve wind stiffness until you've sheathed the interior walls.
I would guess you mean angle brackets, but I wouldn't have used those; I would have angle screwed the beam down into the beamline. And after that fixed a temporary tongue-and-groove board or 28x70 or 45x45 or whatever is available on top, above the beamline, and in connection with that make sure the beams are vertical.
Then you can shortling in 2"2 at the outer wall as support for the floor chipboard.
But it's not wrong to use angle brackets there...
It depends a bit on the truss's construction, how much it pushes out the wall if there is a lot of snow/weight on it. Then the intermediate floor can act as a bottom chord and hold the wall together...
But usually with elevated wall height, you install a ridge beam of glued laminated timber to meet deflection requirements for trusses in residential buildings.
My exterior 45x70 is nailed with 5" nails into standing 45x170.
But it's fine to screw directly in as well, if you like that...
Outside this exterior sheathing. Then 20x45 air gap & cladding.
You don't need 45x220 in the frame for strength.
Also consider that 45x220 is more cumbersome to carry, handle, saw, etc.
If the goal is 45+220+45+45=355 mm insulation, you can consider a wall of:
horizontal 45x70, vertical 45x145, horizontal 45x70, vapor barrier, vertical 45x45.
But then you'll have to determine if the goal is a holiday home or permanent residence.
That can determine how much money should be spent on insulation.
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
So you've built according to the right option in your image and nailed 3 nails from the outside through the ledger board into the end grain of the beams, then lifted into place and toe-screwed into the standing studs? Honestly, I don't understand how you manage to toe-screw the beams so they hold with the same nail/screw in the standing studs, but maybe you haven't done that either.
What I wrote about earlier and still don't understand is how you're supposed to reach to toe-screw in those places if you're using joist hangers; they have ears that extend about 45mm on each side. Have you then screwed through the holes in the joist hangers, at an angle into the standing studs?
I mean connector plates at the T-cross on your sketch, screwed in the direction seen on the screen.
Aren't 45x220 beams with CC60 durable enough for a 5.4m span then?
Possibly it might be slightly easier to pull electricity with horizontal 45x45s on the inside just inside the vapor barrier, but you can certainly build in several different ways. The idea is probably external plasterboard and air 21x45 as you wrote, then panel...
What I wrote about earlier and still don't understand is how you're supposed to reach to toe-screw in those places if you're using joist hangers; they have ears that extend about 45mm on each side. Have you then screwed through the holes in the joist hangers, at an angle into the standing studs?
I mean connector plates at the T-cross on your sketch, screwed in the direction seen on the screen.
Aren't 45x220 beams with CC60 durable enough for a 5.4m span then?
Possibly it might be slightly easier to pull electricity with horizontal 45x45s on the inside just inside the vapor barrier, but you can certainly build in several different ways. The idea is probably external plasterboard and air 21x45 as you wrote, then panel...
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
If you do as on the left in your sketch, and put 3 screws in the horizontal rail (bärlina), then lay the beams on top and screw diagonally into the standing studs.
Alternatively, as I was considering, screw metal connectors at the intersection.
I think it holds well, but a standing 45x45 underneath I don't see as a disadvantage, why it wouldn't come loose? It probably could, theoretically, but if you nail it with say 8 nails and it stands between the bärlina and the plate, it feels like it relieves weight on the bärlina, and with the house finished and weight on the upper floor, it shouldn't come loose if you initially have knocked it in a few mm too long so it wedges in place.
Alternatively, as I was considering, screw metal connectors at the intersection.
I think it holds well, but a standing 45x45 underneath I don't see as a disadvantage, why it wouldn't come loose? It probably could, theoretically, but if you nail it with say 8 nails and it stands between the bärlina and the plate, it feels like it relieves weight on the bärlina, and with the house finished and weight on the upper floor, it shouldn't come loose if you initially have knocked it in a few mm too long so it wedges in place.
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
I have autoCAD LT 2004, how do you export files to pdf, or do you convert with another program? I only have one for converting Word files to pdf..
Yes, that should work fine. If you're going to have a vapor barrier, remember to put a strip before you install the bearer, so you don't have to worry about getting it right at the joists.
That was drawn in Solidworks. You can "save as" .pdf there... but they tend to be quite large if there are many details since they are saved as vectors...
Otherwise, there are pdf printers like cutepdf, which pretend to be a printer, and then create a pdf with a raster image...
That was drawn in Solidworks. You can "save as" .pdf there... but they tend to be quite large if there are many details since they are saved as vectors...
Otherwise, there are pdf printers like cutepdf, which pretend to be a printer, and then create a pdf with a raster image...
Self-builder
· Östergötland
· 1 837 posts
I'm testing with a bitmap file, doesn't show very well but I'm a bit eager to build something similar to this:
http://powerx3m.se/filez/byggahus/hus/hus2.bmp
However, I'm not entirely sure about all solutions and especially not the floor plan.
Regarding the vapor barrier, you won't set anything in the ceiling/floor on the beams then?
http://powerx3m.se/filez/byggahus/hus/hus2.bmp
However, I'm not entirely sure about all solutions and especially not the floor plan.
Regarding the vapor barrier, you won't set anything in the ceiling/floor on the beams then?
The interior wall doesn't need to be that advanced, or should one half of the house extend further than the other half?
Otherwise, 45x95 is sufficient for the interior wall, you can lay the floor joists on the interior wall and then continue with another piece up.
It might be difficult to get such long and straight planks as you would otherwise need to reach the ridge.
Otherwise, 45x95 is sufficient for the interior wall, you can lay the floor joists on the interior wall and then continue with another piece up.
It might be difficult to get such long and straight planks as you would otherwise need to reach the ridge.