I always cut the edge as it becomes much easier to make the corner look nice. Here you can read a bit more about mounting in corners and around openings http://www.norgips.se/montage/vaggar/oppningar-skjutdorrar-horn/index1,204.htm and here a bit about mounting in general including horizontal mounting http://www.norgips.se/index1,187.htm Take a browse around the Norgips website, it is very good and there is a lot of useful information there.
Remove chamfering in the corners. Forgot it once. Cursed long strings of words afterward because it took a long time to get the filler right.
Horizontal sounds unhealthy, but it matches the Yankees...
Then you have to cut the bottom chamfer. Cut the top if it doesn't match the height. But if you have 240 in ceiling height, it can be convenient.
Vertical: no cutting or at most one cut.
Horizontal sounds unhealthy, but it matches the Yankees...
Then you have to cut the bottom chamfer. Cut the top if it doesn't match the height. But if you have 240 in ceiling height, it can be convenient.
Vertical: no cutting or at most one cut.
If you were to install two layers of drywall, should the first layer be flat drywall? That is, without bevels.
Because you wouldn't be taping the first layer, and the bevels could potentially cause dips in the second layer when you tighten the drywall screws, right? (I have never installed drywall, so I don't know if that could happen.)
Because you wouldn't be taping the first layer, and the bevels could potentially cause dips in the second layer when you tighten the drywall screws, right? (I have never installed drywall, so I don't know if that could happen.)
Thanks for the links.Ola78 said:
It says that you should preferably not mount plasterboards tightly against the floor or ceiling. But it doesn't say anything about inner corners. How do I do there? Should I leave maybe 3 mm and then fill?
I usually do as you think and seal. If you look at the links I recommended, they say you should use filler, but if you check Danogips' website http://byggsystem.knaufdanogips.se/mounting/m_partitions/boards/avslutningar.html, according to them, you can use sealant in the corner if you want to avoid cracking. Go ahead and use sealant as you intended, I've never noticed anything negative from it.
Why use double plasterboard? I can't see a single reason why unless it's required for fire rating!
Go with OSB, plywood, or chipboard instead. Really convenient when you need to hang things on the walls and you avoid expanding screws.
It's also easier to plaster if you have, for example, OSB behind it, as you don't need to hit the studs, just go for it!
Regarding the corners, I leave them untouched. If you get the boards to meet well there, the wallpaper won't crack. But sure, add a bead of sealant if needed.
Go with OSB, plywood, or chipboard instead. Really convenient when you need to hang things on the walls and you avoid expanding screws.
It's also easier to plaster if you have, for example, OSB behind it, as you don't need to hit the studs, just go for it!
Regarding the corners, I leave them untouched. If you get the boards to meet well there, the wallpaper won't crack. But sure, add a bead of sealant if needed.
It's very important to screw through the OSB and into the studs. An OSB moves a couple of mm per m depending on moisture and temperature changes, whereas the equivalent for a drywall is a few tenths of a mm. Crack risk, in other words.Chepo said:
Regarding corners, it's filler and paper tape that's needed. Especially if it's going to be wallpapered. Possibly, I might consider adding sealant in the ceiling angle.
Well... The board behind the gypsum, no matter what you choose, is screwed into the studs which prevents or at least reduces the movement. I haven't bothered to find the stud when I've placed gypsum on chipboard. Which has worked excellently!Elvis69 said:
On the other hand, if you check the Norgips installation instructions here under the section on board layers, all layers should be screwed to the underlying framework. http://www.norgips.se/index1,187.htm Danogips writes about it as far as I can find, so both are probably equally right/wrong. Regarding corners, it's the same, Norgips only recommends joint tape while Danogips suggests you can also use sealant, whether this is right or wrong will probably always be debated, personally, I seal the corners.