I need some brainstorming help.

I have an old barn that has been insulated and made a loft out of, but I believe it isn't suitable for building a second floor on?

In picture 1, I have drawn the floor joists on top of the insulation, but of course, the joists are under the insulation.

45x220 mm with a 120 cm center span of 5300 mm have been placed partly on the rafters' legs according to picture 2 (Note this is not my barn, just an illustration, the dimensions of my rafters are thicker) and partly between each "rafter" on a crossbeam lying between the rafters. Since the wall, etc., is plastered, it is hard to see exactly how this is done. The wall is built at an angle see picture 3. I assume this affects how much load can be placed on the wall?

1. My thought is to remove the insulation in the attic and add additional 45x220 mm so it becomes 60 cm on center.
Then, according to picture 3, create a beam approximately 70 cm from the roof/angled roof break, with double 45x220 mm and 95x95 mm posts underneath. On both the right and left sides of the room on the ground floor. This makes the span for 45x220 mm on the loft floor about 4 m.

2. Would it have been better to just have a beam in the middle of the room?

Attic space with exposed beams and insulation; red lines drawn to illustrate joist placement; dimly lit, showing structural elements and roofing.
Interior of a barn with visible beams and roof structure, showing trusses and building materials, highlighting renovation considerations.
Attic room with black sofa, white coffee table, and storage shelves. Red lines illustrate proposed beam placement for structural support.
 
Can't you draw a dimensioned section instead? I don't quite understand what you want to do. 5.3 meters is too long a span for 45x220 c/c 600, if you are going to have a normal activity on top.
 
Hi can try to sketch later. Yes, 5.3m is too long, therefore the question is about a support beam in the middle or a support beam on the respective right and left side since I am unsure about how the supports on the sides are constructed as it looks today.
 
J justusandersson said:
Can't you draw a dimensioned section instead? I don't quite understand what you want to do. 5.3 meters is too long a span for 45x220 c/c 600, if you are going to have normal activity on top.
Does this help you at all?
Pencil sketches of a building framework showing cross-sections with measurements and labeled elements like beam and posts.
 
Anyone who might have any ideas about my idea in the bottom picture about mounting joists and posts to be able to build an upper floor on the existing framework that today is only made for the ceiling?
 
I think the best way is to do as you suggested in the last picture. A standalone construction using posts, beams, and cross beams.
 
J justusandersson said:
I think the best way is to do as you suggested in the last picture. A standalone construction with posts, beams, and crosswise joists.
Ok, I'm considering the beams on the ground floor.

The ceiling there is plastered on strapping.
Can I let the beam run under the existing plaster along the strapping and make sure the beam goes under a strapping panel along its entire length?

From below, the beam supports the plaster-strapping-frame.

Does each joist need to be screwed through the strapping and plaster from the attic into the beam, or can the beam be more or less "loose"?
 
N Novisfixaren said:
From below, the support beam thus supports the plaster-sparse-floor construction.
That is not a good solution. The cross beams should ideally rest directly on the support beam, absolutely not on the plaster. Perhaps on the sparse panel, depending on its dimensions.

The beams should be anchored in the support beams and braced against tipping.
 
J justusandersson said:
It's not a good solution. The cross beams should ideally rest directly on the support beam, definitely not on the plaster. Maybe on the lattice panel, depending on its dimensions.

The beams should be anchored in the support beams and braced against tipping.
The lattice is 45x70.

I wasn't thinking of fastening under the plaster if there's no lattice underneath...

But I was thinking of cutting small holes in the plaster so I can see exactly where the lattice panel is located and then mounting the support beam directly under the lattice panel in the same direction as the lattice panel. Is this crazy?

Does it matter if I remove the plaster and fasten the support beam directly to the lattice? It shouldn't make a difference if the plaster is in between or not, right?
 
Sebild
 
  • Hole in dark ceiling with exposed light-colored material and visible cobwebs.
N Novisfixaren said:
Does it matter if I cut away the plaster and attach the ledger directly to the studs should make no difference whether the plaster is in between or not?
Yes. Regular plasterboards are not made for the type of pressure that might be involved. However, 45x70 lumber should withstand the load.
 
J justusandersson said:
Yes. Regular plasterboard is not made for the type of pressure that can be involved. However, 45x70 timber should withstand the load.
Ok so cut away the plaster strip and then put the load-bearing beam against the studs?

The alternative is to tear down the studs and put the load-bearing beam all the way up to the joists, is that the optimal solution?
 
Both options work, but the latter is best.
 
J justusandersson said:
Both options work but the latter is best.
It's not much extra work to tear down the glesen also since I have to cut the gypsum anyway...

If there are electrical conduits, it's a bit easier to keep the glesen...
 
J justusandersson said:
Both options work but the latter is best.
How do you think I should attach the beams to the bearing beam?

Angle bracket one on each side of each beam?

Or is it enough to toe screw or toe nail?

Should I kortla?

Chipboard should be screw-glued on top ....
 
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