Fix nice drywall outer corners (a whole bunch)

[Karl_Pedal]

We have a total of 12 tall windows (21-module) and doors (25-module) where we have asked the carpenters to install drywall corners during the window replacement. The corners are reinforced with AquaBead but the question is how best to make this look good without hiring a painter. Glue paper tape over the perforated parts and then spackle over? Or spackle + microlit? Or just a lot of spackle?

 

[Robban8]

Spackle, spackle, spackle..

 

[Karl_Pedal]

How do you do it where there is a hole behind the hole strip on AquaBeaden? Fill it up until you can't push in more?

 

[logic]

I had filled the holes. Regular filler works great, spread it over the holes and smooth the edge against the wall with a wide putty knife, and it looks amazing after painting.

 

[Karl_Pedal]

Ok, also mask against the windows so the frame stays fresh then I guess. Is there any filler that is particularly suitable and is there anything to avoid?

 

[Stefan N]

Start with a medium filler, if you want it extra fine then finish with a round of fine filler. It will probably take three rounds of filler before it's good.

 

[Karl_Pedal]

Damn, this is going to be boring. But thanks for all the great input

 

[Alfredo]

There is an advertisement/instructional video here:

http://gyproc.se/produkter/profiler/innerväggsprofiler/hörnspackelprofil

 

[Fred vom Jupiter]

Ok, also mask against the windows so the frame stays fresh, I assume. Is there a filler that is especially suitable and is there anything you should avoid?

It's not too tricky to mask when you're filling. The filler resolves with water, even when it's cured. Most often you can just peel it away, and at worst you can scrub with a sponge. Save the masking tape for when you're painting.

Some tips to reduce dust:
When there have been just a few spots to sand, I've been lazy and scrubbed with a wet sponge or dishcloth instead. Probably against all the rules, but it has worked well.
Mirka has a very good system called Abranet. You sand with a mesh on a special sanding block that you connect with a hose to your shop vacuum. There's a long thread praising sanding gypsum joints with Abranet.

 

[Karl_Pedal]

Lovely, Abranet is the solution to everything I hate about plastering

Here's the next corner plastering question:
We have a dormer where the slope goes from 38° to 19°. How is the transition best made?

 

[Stefan N]

Paper strip with metal insert that folds.
View attachment 74255[/QUOTE]

 

[Karl_Pedal]

Aha, clever gadget. If you already have metal and a grid under the plasterboard on both sides of the angle, is the metal version of the tape still necessary? I got a tip about Gypsum Naturgips. Is it advisable?

 

[mexitegel]

I haven't tested it myself, but I imagine that it's significantly easier to achieve a straight and neat edge with a sheet/strip like the one StefanN recommended than to try and plaster it freehand.

 

[nino]

If you first putty and sand in one direction and then the other, you should get a good edge.

 

[Karl_Pedal]

I have not tested it myself, but I imagine it's significantly easier to achieve a straight and neat edge with a sheet/strip like the one StefanN suggested than trying to plaster it freehand.

There's something to what you're saying. Where can you buy it? I found this https://www.k-rauta.se/byggvaruhus/målarremsa-asm-papp-metall-50mmx30m but it says it should be used with sealant, so it doesn't feel quite right.