Fix the basement wall

[4integration]

Hello,

I am planning to fix up a wall in the basement. It's a brick interior wall. To reduce the risk of mold, I plan to install metal studs and then screw in 13 mm drywall.

I also have an opening (like an arch) between two rooms that will now be closed with a wall/door. I plan to use metal studs there as well.

See pictures:
http://gallery.jarkeborn.se/displayimage.php?album=9&pos=14
http://gallery.jarkeborn.se/displayimage.php?album=9&pos=13
http://gallery.jarkeborn.se/displayimage.php?album=9&pos=12

Questions:
- Does it sound reasonable or are there better ways?
- What are the dimensions of metal studs?
- Price difference between metal and wood?
- Are there doors where the frame is about 190 cm? It's a bit tight between the floor and the beam.

I plan to clad the chimney in drywall the same way (after checking with the chimney sweep).

http://gallery.jarkeborn.se/displayimage.php?album=9&pos=10

All ideas and thoughts are welcome!

 

[zankan]

Hello,


Questions:
Does it sound reasonable or are there better ways?
- What dimensions are available for metal studs?
Price difference between metal and wood?
- Are there doors with frames approximately 190 cm? It's a bit tight between the floor and the beam.

Metal studs are available in dimensions 45, 70, 95, 120, and 145. They come in different designs, but you should have a regular simple 70 stud.

The price of a metal stud is about 35-40% higher than wood.

Door frames are available at 190, but they are expensive. Buy a 200, which is more common, and trim down the door. 5 at the top, 5 at the bottom, otherwise, the handle and hinges might look off or, rather, they will look off.

To cover the vault, you can also use metal studs. Just remember that for the one you will attach the frame to, screw a board of the same dimension as the stud if you have single drywall. If you're using double drywall, use a 22x95 instead. This will save you some trouble with the installation of the frame...

 

[robbanl]

I would polish where possible, it looks nicer and you don't need to enclose the wall behind panels, to avoid the risk of moisture if it should unexpectedly occur.

Robert

 

[4integration]

Thank you for the quick response.

I'm also considering how best to cover the beam. It's about 200 mm wide and needs to be "straightened out" because apparently the mold gave way when it was made and it's bent at the bottom.

I would like the wall facing outwards to be smooth, meaning the one shown in the picture http://gallery.jarkeborn.se/displayimage.php?album=9&pos=12

In the arch itself, I will thus need a wider stud to align with the rest of the wall. The same applies to the other side, although there isn't as much wall to cover.

How should I make the underside look nice... but wait now... won't it be like this...

I need to frame up a 70 mm wall on each side of the beam. Then, where the door is supposed to be, there will be reveals to fill out the 340 mm (200 mm beam + 2x70mm framed wall). It will be quite a thick wall...
Should the door be placed in the middle or closest to the direction the door opens?

 

[4integration]

I would polish where possible, it looks nicer and you avoid enclosing the wall behind panels, this to avoid moisture risk if it were to occur.

Robert

But having a wall of mixed materials, framing/plasterboarding the archway and the rest being masonry can lead to problems with movement and cracking.

 

[4integration]

Is it possible to glue steel profiles to a concrete floor with satisfactory results or will this give way over time compared to screw/plugs?

There are water pipes going down into the slab, between the inner wall and the outer wall, and then they probably head towards the photo booth in the direction of the water heater.
http://gallery.jarkeborn.se/displayimage.php?album=9&pos=12

I certainly don't want to screw into these :-[

 

[zankan]

Yes, works perfectly but then take SKP without etenduk underneath ok...

 

[4integration]

Yep works perfectly but take SKP without etenduk underneath ok...

Ok, thanks for the response but can you explain a little more "SKP without etenduk underneath ok..." ???

I just went and bought profiles but also took the opportunity to buy some tubes of Casco SuperSet but you don't mean this??

 

[zankan]

The track that is mounted on the floor and ceiling is called SKP; I don't know what that stands for, but they are available in 2 different flange heights, 25 and 55... The track comes with a woollen strip meant to make it "more airtight" for soundproofing purposes. Gluing to it isn't the best idea. So you've probably bought the right one. But if there is a strip underneath, cut it off with a morakniv. It's super easy, then glue a few blobs about 40 cm apart to attach the floor track... You screw the ceiling track on, and that's where it needs to be secured properly.

 

[4integration]

Thanks for the answer. I will glue and put some screws in "safe" places.

Another question:
On the part where there is no wall today, I plan to put in insulation, partly because of the inner room which will then have a teenager living with computer games and music, so soundproofing is needed . In the room outside this, it will become a home theater room.

Should I put insulation between the brick wall and the drywall to reduce the risk of rattling??

However, I don't want to risk mold in the insulation, but can insulation become moldy, i.e., is it organic material??

 

[zankan]

Insulation can be adjusted to address internal resonances in the wall. And if you want to handle sound properly, build a double stud construction and use 3 layers of drywall, which will give you sound insulation of, say, 60 dB at best, probably around 55 dB, which is extremely good but might be needed to avoid disturbance. 55 dB is the standard between, for example, hotel rooms or apartments...