Hello,
We're planning to build a patio roof, and I'm wondering how to attach the beam to the facade without risking damage to the plaster. I'm concerned about the risk of cracking at the attachment point (i.e., when tightening the screws) and any potential future issues (e.g., moisture) with having wood attached directly to the plaster. Our plasterer said it's good to have something like metal between the plaster and wood, but I haven't found a good fitting/bracket that minimizes the number of holes in the plaster. I've also considered using different material (plastic strip, etc.) between the wood and plaster.
Does anyone know how to avoid problems with the plaster facade?
Grateful for quick answers, planning to start this weekend..
We're planning to build a patio roof, and I'm wondering how to attach the beam to the facade without risking damage to the plaster. I'm concerned about the risk of cracking at the attachment point (i.e., when tightening the screws) and any potential future issues (e.g., moisture) with having wood attached directly to the plaster. Our plasterer said it's good to have something like metal between the plaster and wood, but I haven't found a good fitting/bracket that minimizes the number of holes in the plaster. I've also considered using different material (plastic strip, etc.) between the wood and plaster.
Does anyone know how to avoid problems with the plaster facade?
Grateful for quick answers, planning to start this weekend..
It is an old house (1938) with wooden construction so there is wood behind the plaster (quite thick if I remember correctly, 3-4 cm thick), then some reeds and chicken wire in between.. I'm not too worried about making it stick, more concerned about what will happen with the plaster which we redid last fall.
Ah ok, then I understand your concern, it feels like the render is quite sensitive on such a facade. Unfortunately, I have no experience with render on wooden structures so I can't answer your question about cracks. On the back of the support beam, I had stapled damp-proof course paper as moisture protection.
Here you had a bit more info than in your other thread on the same topic!
With that wall construction, you could use spacer tubes to prevent the plaster from being crushed.
With that wall construction, you could use spacer tubes to prevent the plaster from being crushed.
Hi Anaitis, I didn't see your response before I thanked for the tip about syllpapp..
Can you give a little more info about the distansrören? What type and length would be required to maintain good load-bearing capacity in the construction?
Can you give a little more info about the distansrören? What type and length would be required to maintain good load-bearing capacity in the construction?
The spacer tubes are inserted through the plaster to prevent it from being crushed. Adjust the diameter to match any available hole saw on the market. Then, use the hole saw to mill out the plaster to such an extent that pipe stubs can be pressed into the plaster. The tubes then keep your fittings or wood details away from the plaster so that you can tighten the screw properly without crushing the plaster. Material for the tubes can be galvanized steel, aluminum, stainless steel, or plastic.
OK, thanks. Got in touch with a guy at Beijer who recommended a similar solution, but if we had issues with load-bearing capacity, we could probably just use paper behind the support line according to him (i.e., without spacers in that case).
Another question; do you really have to use pressure-treated wood for the roof structure? I can understand using it for the posts, but not really why it would be necessary for the rafters, etc., which are just below the plastic sheets (roof covering). We want to paint it white and would prefer not to wait 2-3 years to paint it.
Does anyone know what applies?
Another question; do you really have to use pressure-treated wood for the roof structure? I can understand using it for the posts, but not really why it would be necessary for the rafters, etc., which are just below the plastic sheets (roof covering). We want to paint it white and would prefer not to wait 2-3 years to paint it.
Does anyone know what applies?
No, I would have used regular timber for this and painted all sides before assembly (oiled, primed, and painted the first time) to then do the final coat once everything is set up. Paint and sill paper on the back provide adequate protection. If it is polycarbonate you are installing, then (in most cases) the timber must be painted if it is in contact with the plastic, otherwise, it may become discolored.