The walls in my basement (from -36) consist of ~7-10cm thick "stones" of some black, extremely porous material. Getting a screw to hold in this and then load it is impossible. The expansion tank, for example, screwed up with a special lightweight concrete plug, came loose after just a few days...
Does anyone here have an idea on how I should now attach door frames to this?!
Does anyone here have an idea on how I should now attach door frames to this?!
Spontaneous thought
Make space for a wooden frame plus about 2 cm of air around the door frame. Drill holes through the wooden frame and into the porous material. Try to make these holes somewhat conical so that they are larger in the wall than at the hole. Fill the holes in the porous material with two-component adhesive and insert pieces of threaded rod. When the adhesive has cured, you should be able to put a nut and washer on the threaded rod and thus secure the frame. Then attach the door frame to the wooden frame in the usual way.
An acquaintance had to resort to this method on some gray concrete thing that was soft as anything.
Make space for a wooden frame plus about 2 cm of air around the door frame. Drill holes through the wooden frame and into the porous material. Try to make these holes somewhat conical so that they are larger in the wall than at the hole. Fill the holes in the porous material with two-component adhesive and insert pieces of threaded rod. When the adhesive has cured, you should be able to put a nut and washer on the threaded rod and thus secure the frame. Then attach the door frame to the wooden frame in the usual way.
An acquaintance had to resort to this method on some gray concrete thing that was soft as anything.
And recurring door closures :
haven't caused your acquaintance's wall to crumble around the fixings (i.e., the hard 2k compound) resulting in the frame starting to come loose?
That's what I'm a bit afraid of and was thinking maybe one should come up with some rule solution or build up with some other stone around the door opening (the latter seems extremely tedious though...)
haven't caused your acquaintance's wall to crumble around the fixings (i.e., the hard 2k compound) resulting in the frame starting to come loose?That's what I'm a bit afraid of and was thinking maybe one should come up with some rule solution or build up with some other stone around the door opening (the latter seems extremely tedious though...)
Foam? did it myself due to a similar problem with a door in the basement...
important to align the door with some wedges or something first
did some minor adjustments myself after about 30 minutes as it was drying
(edit, 2 years since I did it... and it seems to work perfectly)
important to align the door with some wedges or something first
did some minor adjustments myself after about 30 minutes as it was drying
(edit, 2 years since I did it... and it seems to work perfectly)
Hello!
I also have some experience with these plaster plates, which are otherwise known as slaggplattor. When we set up a kitchen on these, we first glued sturdy plugs with Plastic Padding and it worked well. (We also had a couple of extra screws in each cabinet.)
In the basement of our current house, there were also really thin (6-7 cm) such walls with doors in them. These doors have wooden frames and were simply nailed with large nails into the walls. It held from 1938 until now, when we removed the walls. However, I don't think people have slammed these doors very often; the former owners of our house seem to have been careful people.
So I definitely believe that the wooden frame trick should hold.
Due to the somewhat deficient properties of the slaggplattor, we chose to completely remove our wall instead of trying to move the door and fill the hole, which would otherwise have been the alternative. So we will eventually put up a new wall, which is also a solution to this problem, although naturally more complicated. (It was a fairly small wall and we are going to redo the floor under it as well.)
/pinebar
I also have some experience with these plaster plates, which are otherwise known as slaggplattor. When we set up a kitchen on these, we first glued sturdy plugs with Plastic Padding and it worked well. (We also had a couple of extra screws in each cabinet.)
In the basement of our current house, there were also really thin (6-7 cm) such walls with doors in them. These doors have wooden frames and were simply nailed with large nails into the walls. It held from 1938 until now, when we removed the walls. However, I don't think people have slammed these doors very often; the former owners of our house seem to have been careful people.
So I definitely believe that the wooden frame trick should hold.
Due to the somewhat deficient properties of the slaggplattor, we chose to completely remove our wall instead of trying to move the door and fill the hole, which would otherwise have been the alternative. So we will eventually put up a new wall, which is also a solution to this problem, although naturally more complicated. (It was a fairly small wall and we are going to redo the floor under it as well.)
/pinebar
Last time I was there, the door was still in place It wasn't exactly the same material, though, but I don't think that should matter. A door isn't subjected to significant forces unless you slam it.
I can imagine using spray foam for additional stabilization, but I would foam between the frame and the wall to make it easier when installing the door frame and use regular frame screws.
It wasn't exactly the same material, though, but I don't think that should matter. A door isn't subjected to significant forces unless you slam it.I can imagine using spray foam for additional stabilization, but I would foam between the frame and the wall to make it easier when installing the door frame and use regular frame screws.
Yes, an existing door and frame that I had to tear down was nailed "from the outside" and the nail heads embedded in the wall Feels a bit backwards, but sure....
Wooden frame as thick as the frame screw is long (protrusion outside the frame, that is)?!
3 fasteners/threaded rods per side (the ceiling is not a problem, concrete)?! Or should I go for 4-5?
Mats, why such a large space between the wooden frame and the frame? If I remember correctly, the space should be around 5-10mm and a maximum of 20mm?! Yes, I might be poorly informed, I've never installed a door frame before
Feels a bit backwards, but sure....Wooden frame as thick as the frame screw is long (protrusion outside the frame, that is)?!
3 fasteners/threaded rods per side (the ceiling is not a problem, concrete)?! Or should I go for 4-5?
Mats, why such a large space between the wooden frame and the frame? If I remember correctly, the space should be around 5-10mm and a maximum of 20mm?! Yes, I might be poorly informed, I've never installed a door frame before
It is compensation for the low precision in my amateur hands.
Well, the idea was that you should have plenty of space to just adjust the door. plus that the nuts for the threaded rod should have space. These can, of course, be countersunk if desired.
I would probably take 5 mounts myself, but I like things that stay in place.
Well, the idea was that you should have plenty of space to just adjust the door. plus that the nuts for the threaded rod should have space. These can, of course, be countersunk if desired.
I would probably take 5 mounts myself, but I like things that stay in place.
I solved a similar problem in aerated concrete/blåbetong walls where the frames were loose by:
* Installing frame screws in new holes.
* Wedge
* Framing with casing that fit with some pressure all around. These were screwed in place. (Now I was lucky that the frame was slightly undersized compared to the wall and where there were gaps, I put latex behind.
* Installing frame screws in new holes.
* Wedge
* Framing with casing that fit with some pressure all around. These were screwed in place. (Now I was lucky that the frame was slightly undersized compared to the wall and where there were gaps, I put latex behind.
The important thing is that you have some form of elasticity between the frame and the porous wall. A rigid connection pulverizes the fastening bit by bit. The proposed foam sealant will certainly work fine. Expansion bolt with rubber can sometimes work between jerking loads and less strong materials. /Martin
It's hard to answer that now : but what actually happens to the foam sealant in 20 years, will it still hold the door then?! I've seen 10-year-old foam (insulation?!) in houses and it's not a pretty sight...
Expansion bolt with rubber sounds interesting. I don't know if I've seen something like that, are bigger hardware stores like Flinks the way to go for that?
but what actually happens to the foam sealant in 20 years, will it still hold the door then?! I've seen 10-year-old foam (insulation?!) in houses and it's not a pretty sight...Expansion bolt with rubber sounds interesting. I don't know if I've seen something like that, are bigger hardware stores like Flinks the way to go for that?