Hello,
My house from 1888 stands on a "torpargrund" with about cc 1200 between the floor joists.
I have now torn up the floor in one room and plan to insert an additional joist between the old ones to get cc 600.
The joists are 3800 long. Will 45x220 from Byggmax work, or should I choose construction-grade wood?
My house from 1888 stands on a "torpargrund" with about cc 1200 between the floor joists.
I have now torn up the floor in one room and plan to insert an additional joist between the old ones to get cc 600.
The joists are 3800 long. Will 45x220 from Byggmax work, or should I choose construction-grade wood?
No, that's not good enough. If you go into Byggmax and check the lumber stacks, there is usually a label somewhere on a piece of lumber. Most of the time when I check, it says the wood is sorting VI (6) or similar. This is what is commonly called form lumber, i.e., suitable for making molds for concrete casting and the like. Okay for interior walls in a garage or similar.
Contact a local sawmill and tell them what you need the wood for. They are usually happy to mill construction-graded wood for you at a reasonable price. Don't use Byggmax wood for this purpose.
Contact a local sawmill and tell them what you need the wood for. They are usually happy to mill construction-graded wood for you at a reasonable price. Don't use Byggmax wood for this purpose.
I have bought studs for my ceiling 45x70 that we have mounted plasterboard on. It works well for that purpose. However, there are some cracks in the wood and some are a bit twisted, so you have to be careful when picking them out at the lumberyard.
Byggmax is great, they have wood at a good price, but I would not use it for roof beams.
In your case, having an older house, try to get hold of demolition lumber from an old house.
They can be 100 years old and have cracks, but they can withstand large forces.
In your case, having an older house, try to get hold of demolition lumber from an old house.
They can be 100 years old and have cracks, but they can withstand large forces.
Now you're really off track.Anders Nilsson said:
The sawmill's sorting in class 1-7 (I-VII) has nothing to do with the strength. Class 1 is knot-free, and class 6-7 is closer to formwork wood. It is purely a visual sorting of the wood where they look for "defects," such as knots, resin pockets, wanes, edge crookedness, bluing, twisted grain, heart cracks, etc. It could suffice with a wane the size of the edge of a pencil for the wood to be classified down, and that's hardly something that affects the strength.
To complicate matters further, most sawmills have their own sorting rules, and additionally, it's quite common to have customer-specific sorting rules... So it's not certain that quality VI is the same at Byggmax as at Beijers even though the wood comes from the same sawmill.
Regarding construction-classed wood, each plank is mechanically tested in terms of strength. This is done in a special machine after the sawing. It's hard to see that a local sawmill could handle this classification since the machines for this are quite rare.
Non-classed wood is counted as K12.
As for the wood quality at Byggmax, it varies across the country since it comes from different sawmills.
If there's something negative to say about Byggmax's lumber yard, it's that the staff generally are not good at sorting out unsellable wood and that as a customer, you must inspect every board you pull out of the woodpile. Unfortunately, I have the same experience from the "fancy building trades" as well >
Last time I went to buy boards at Byggmax, I left without a single board because "my pile" had already been gone through, and only edge-crooked wood was left.
If you're going to buy a larger quantity, it might be worth checking with the nearest saw. There are often small packages in slightly odd lengths that may have become "shelf warmers"
If you just know the dimension, quality, and length, you'll get a quick response from the saw Edit:
I wouldn't hesitate to use wood from Byggmax for what the thread creator is asking for, provided there are fine pieces in the pile. The likelihood of finding fine pieces is high since thicker dimensions tend to hold better quality than thinner wood
Ubbe is out cycling. K24 lumber is NOT mechanically tested stick by stick. It's checked manually or with a machine for how many percent of the total width per meter is knot, type of knot etc. Regular lumber is not classified as K12 at all. When you need K12, a certificate is sufficient; each board is not stamped. An acquaintance of mine is licensed to stamp K lumber, so I am fairly knowledgeable but can ask my friend if I need to.
I have used lumber from Byggmax in floor structures, 45x220, without problems for four years. I selected pieces that lacked large knots, etc. Right or wrong, it seems to work here anyway.
I actually think the original question should be reframed. Byggmax lumber is neither worse nor better than any other non-graded lumber you can generally buy (though, as someone pointed out, it does vary between different Byggmax locations). The question is really whether you can avoid using graded lumber in floor structures/roof trusses?
I actually think the original question should be reframed. Byggmax lumber is neither worse nor better than any other non-graded lumber you can generally buy (though, as someone pointed out, it does vary between different Byggmax locations). The question is really whether you can avoid using graded lumber in floor structures/roof trusses?
I'm not at all familiar with this thing about timber and qualities but I don't understand why there should be a requirement for structural timber in a reinforcement in an existing house that's already in place. The joists in the house, as I understand it, are not to be changed but just to be given a little more support to get a more stable floor, and this shouldn't require the highest quality timber, I think. But maybe I've completely missed something. Please explain this in a way I can understand.
Please check with your friend one more time so we can clear this upstyrman1 said:
It would be extremely embarrassing if I'm wrong since I claimed someone is talking nonsense :-[ Counting knots, etc. is basically the same as done with regular quality sorting of lumber.I took the opportunity to read up a bit on the subject. There is a method to visually determine the strength, but the accuracy is of course not 100% and follows some kind of normal distribution curve. This means that in a batch of K24, there are a number of pieces that do not meet K24 standards... And this must be considered in dimensioning. With mechanical testing, the result is more precise. Thus, there are several methods with varying results.
However, the strength classes have nothing to do with the quality classes, although it can be stated that the finest pieces likely qualify for the highest class regardless of whether it concerns strength or quality
Just pick out the nice pieces and that will do just fine. Just because the timber is stamped K24 doesn't necessarily mean it's good; a lot is thrown away at work because it's cracked, knotty, etc., so the sawmills aren't very particular from what I've noticed.
I have stood next to him when he stamped K24 timber and I should have noticed if it was tested in a machine... It was a while ago that he explained what was required to get the stamp, but basically, it was just the size and placement of the knots. Interestingly, all K24 stamps are personal and linked to a company. So you can see who stamped the timber if there is a complaint.
Hi, I've worked at a sawmill for quite a few years, so I know that it doesn't really matter where you buy your timber, whether it's from Byggmax or a local hardware store. You get the timber you pick; if you lack knowledge, you end up with junk—such is life!!!
I bought decking at byggmax, a few months later the crap cracked. Tore up the junk and bought cladding at a real lumber yard. Never again byggmax. I also want to add that their plasterboard is hard to work with and unclassified, as well as foul-smelling Polish insulation. You get what you pay for.
Byggmax has cheapskate plasterboard that doesn't follow any standards (call customer service, and even they don't think it's worth having), then they have regular standard plasterboard that follows the same standards as Danogips and Norgips. It seems you bought the cheapskate plasterboard....bo said: