Pull together two decking boards 28mm

[Derbyboy]

Hi,

I'm working on stairs (outdoor) and was planning to use two 28x120mm decking boards as handrails. The top board, i.e. the one you hold onto, should be screwed to the underlying board from underneath. The top board should be pulled down/together with the underlying one. Now I've discovered that it's quite difficult to pull the boards together. I've tried with regular decking screws, type 4.5x50.

Any tips?

 

[MathiasS]

1. Deck screws have too pointed a head for this. Use wood screws
2. Drill a hole in the lower board so that the thread doesn't catch it (maybe from the top side of the lower board and not all the way through to the underside, so that the head has something to pull on)

 

[Kane]

Yes, considering how uneven decking boards are, it sounds like a challenging idea. Won't it work with 34x145 or 45x145 as handrails?

 

[Derbyboy]

Well, it looks too bulky with 34x145. I have tested it. Moreover, it becomes even harder to pull down a board that is 34mm.

@MathiasS idea I believe in.

I will drill a pilot hole a few mm from the top straight through and then drill with a dimension that is adapted to the threads, i.e., so they don't touch the lower board. The pilot hole helps me to show where I should then place the screw.

 

[MathiasS]

A picture of the staircase as it looks might help. Are there ready-made handrails as well?

 

[Derbyboy]

Had some from last summer.

I probably should have set the posts closer but oh well.

 

[Strip]

Maybe something like this?

https://www.google.com/search?q=tryckimpregnerad+handledare&oq=tryckimpregnerad

 

[Derbyboy]

I know that there are ready-made handrails. In total, I need 60 meters of handrails and it's too expensive to buy them ready-made, and furthermore, this staircase is in the forest, which means the budget is limited. I have already bought 28x120 x2 which I will make handrails from.

I double two 28x120mm. The lower one I rip to 110 and sand off the outer edges. I screw from underneath, which means there won't be any screw holes where you hold.

 

[Derbyboy]

I believe 6x50 wood screws for outdoor use will be suitable, like this one:

https://www.biltema.se/bygg/fastele...MIl6mJ-bfahQMV-eyyCh2u1g3WEAAYASAAEgKfb_D_BwE

 

[abbe_]

Can't you use 45*90, or 45*120 as a lintel, so you don't have to screw them together?

 

[Derbyboy]

Yes, I might have been able to do that, but as I said, now I've bought the lumber. However, I was considering avoiding screw holes on the underside.

 

[Grannens Häck]

As already mentioned, there should be clearance holes in the first board, and the threads should secure in board two.

For best effect, use a flat head on the screw and a not so steep pitch.

 

[Derbyboy]

Flat head? I still want the screw to be countersunk into the lower board. Not sure if there is much difference in performance between a "regular" wood screw 6x50mm.

The last resort is to use a montage screw but then they won't be countersunk.

 

[Grannens Häck]

Flat head? I still want the screw to be countersunk in the lower board. I'm not sure if there's much difference in design between a "regular" wood screw 6x50mm.

The last resort is to use mounting screws, but then they won't be countersunk.

You can make both a countersink and clearance hole. Maybe not something you feel like doing, as it will be more work.

Try with a wood screw with a comic head otherwise, you'll definitely notice if it works well or not. But at least make a clearance hole or thread-free in board one.

 

[z_bumbi]

Clamp the wood together before screwing if you want to be able to replace it; otherwise, glue, clamp, and then screw. Have enough clamps so you can both press it together and align it edge to edge. Choose an edge/side that is most important to be even and hope it dries in an advantageous way.