Hello!
As you can read in the description, the door frame is 15 mm deeper than the wall it is to be placed in. I'm going to install an outer door in an interior wall that leads from the utility entrance to the garage, and I plan to set the frame flush with the interior wall in the utility entrance, but then it sticks out 15 mm on the garage side. Are there any standard solutions for this problem, or should one perhaps use a klackfoder?
On the garage side, the walls are already in place, there's just a hole opened for the door. On the inside, I have removed the wall boards around the door opening (it was previously sealed), but the rest of the wall boards remain.
I've searched and found a lot about what to do if the frame is shallower than the wall, but found nothing about the opposite. I wanted to see if anyone has a standard solution to this problem before I reinvent the wheel
Grateful for answers!
As you can read in the description, the door frame is 15 mm deeper than the wall it is to be placed in. I'm going to install an outer door in an interior wall that leads from the utility entrance to the garage, and I plan to set the frame flush with the interior wall in the utility entrance, but then it sticks out 15 mm on the garage side. Are there any standard solutions for this problem, or should one perhaps use a klackfoder?
On the garage side, the walls are already in place, there's just a hole opened for the door. On the inside, I have removed the wall boards around the door opening (it was previously sealed), but the rest of the wall boards remain.
I've searched and found a lot about what to do if the frame is shallower than the wall, but found nothing about the opposite. I wanted to see if anyone has a standard solution to this problem before I reinvent the wheel
Grateful for answers!
Well, I hadn't planned on installing drywall, only reinforcement wallpaper with paper strips on the seams. The reason is that I have a radiator on the same wall and it became quite tricky considering that the wall moves out in relation to the pipes that come up about 3 cm from the wall (drywall + baseboards will probably protrude too far).
One should perform a reverse trim. That is, trim on the wall with 15mm and then add the casing on it. Calculate where the trim should be positioned on the wall depending on how wide the casing you plan to use is.
Split the frame if possible, otherwise just follow one of the other suggestions.
That sounds good! 15mm planed and then trim, that should work, thanks!
Thanks for all the tips! I will attach the chipboard and then fit the frame, will also check if I can find a klackfoder with the right rabbet, seems to be the easy solution if the measurements match.