Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
If I go to Isover's website and click on Fasadskiva, it says under the heading "Air gap behind wooden panel" the following:
"Ventilation behind wooden panel is as important as behind other facade materials... With vertical paneling... Here the nailing rule is set horizontally, which means that no air gap is formed. By placing a batten vertically before the horizontal nailing rule is set, an air gap is created"

Have you really read the installation instructions when you have built all those houses?
Here are no crossed battens.
http://www.isover.se/sites/isover.s...etsanvisning_isover_fasadskiva_30_2016-12.pdf
 
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Kallebo
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No, but isn't the distance a thumb longer than the insulation is thick? :thinking:

It gives the same effect.
 
Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
No, but isn't the distance an inch longer than the insulation is thick? :thinking:

It gives the same effect.
No!
 
Who's taking on the task of calling Isover? :rofl:
 
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S
Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
No, but isn't the distance some inch longer than the insulation is thick? :thinking:

It gives the same effect.
you also set the battens so that the insulation is held in place.
you use the spacer sleeve so that the insulation isn't compressed, and it prevents air in the insulation.
 
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RoBo
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Interesting discussion!
Gives a face to the saying painting oneself into a corner :)

I have previously explained my view and the advantages of horizontal paneling.

But now I've started to wonder. :rolleyes:
Since I have an unventilated so-called climate attic, there is no air gap up under the roof deck. And, of course, the meticulous carpenters have built the walls super tight at the connection between the outer wall's Z-panel and the roof deck and the outdoor drywall, which serves as a wind barrier in the walls and the roof deck.

Hmmm, maybe I should go up with the hole saw and make some ventilation holes in the outer panel just under the roof, so all the moist air can escape.
But you can see from below how the joints in the Z-panel are not airtight. Maybe that's enough?
 
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KnockOnWood KnockOnWood said:
Interesting discussion!
Gives a face to the saying to paint oneself into a corner :)

I have previously explained my view and the advantages of horizontal paneling.

But now I've started to reconsider. :rolleyes:
Since I have an unventilated so-called climate attic, there is no air gap up under the tongue and groove roof. And of course, the meticulous carpenters have built the walls super tightly at the connection between the outer wall's Z-panel and the tongue and groove in the roof and the exterior gypsum, which acts as a wind barrier in the walls and tongue and groove.

Hmmm, maybe I should get up there with the hole saw and make some ventilation holes in the outer paneling just below the roof, so all the moist air can escape.
But when looking from below, you can see how untight the joints in the Z-panel are. Maybe that's enough?
you probably know where I stand on the issue if you've been following the thread.
I would have somehow ventilated at the top if I were you; it's such an easy solution.
 
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KnockOnWood
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Don't forget the insect net.

I wouldn't be super surprised if the vertical spikläkten is lost in translation between the designer and the technical documenter who wrote the assembly instructions.

They have hardly written the section about needing vertical läkt by mistake.
 
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Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
Don't forget insect netting.

I wouldn't be super surprised if the vertical nailer is lost in translation between the designer and the technical documenter who wrote the installation instructions.

They have hardly written the section about needing vertical battens by mistake.
what does isover's documentation have to do with new construction or renovation of a house?
 
Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
Don't forget insect nets
That's right, thanks!

Just drilling a bunch of Ø30 mm holes would be like giving free housing to thousands of wasps.
Just move in, you know :p

Maybe I'll have to make a small test hole and stick in the moisture meter to see how things are in there in the dark.
 
H
SBH said:
What does Isover's documentation have to do with new construction or renovation of a house?
Presumably a lot when choosing to use one of their systems, which is what this thread largely discusses, hence the title "Does Isover’s distance sleeve provide an air gap (facade board)?"

It's even you who has referred to their installation documentation and advocated that the supplier of their system knows best.
 
Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
Who will take on the task of calling Isover? :rofl:
So. Now I have emailed their support.

By the way, I noticed that they have somewhat disclaimed responsibility: "There is also standing panel with cover boards where the base board is at least 19 x 150 mm and the cover board 22 x 150 mm. Here the batten board is quite wide, which forms ventilation channels behind the cover board, see image below."

(Why on earth would anyone buy panel where there is a 3 mm difference in thickness?)

http://www.isover.se/isolera-yttervagg-utifran-med-ett-lager-isolering
 
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Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
So. Now I have emailed their support.

I also noticed that they have partially disclaimed responsibility: "There is also standing panel with cover boards where the bottom board is at least 19 x 150 mm and the cover board is 22 x 150 mm. Here, the batten board is quite wide, forming ventilation channels behind the cover board, see the image below."

(Why on earth would one buy a panel where there's a 3 mm difference in thickness?)

[link]
Yes, clearly some air will pass behind the cover board.
But studies have shown that this is not sufficient and a free air gap of about 20mm is optimal.

There is quite a lot of water that needs to be ventilated away so it doesn't push into the facade.
Then something can happen like a gutter becomes overfull, a storm, a seal becomes old, a fastening is removed and forgotten to be put back, etc., etc.
The stresses on the air gap can then be very large, and the turnover with dry air that can ventilate away moisture needs to be substantial.
 
Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
Why on earth would you buy
It's written with a bit of humor, I think :geek:
"Horizontal paneling consists of panels that are at least 22 x 175 mm," they write.

So my 22 x 120 mm Z-panel is not good enough then?
 
So it's starting to come together a bit now after this enormous number of posts, i.e., #267, 268, that what is almost self-evident for a person like, for example, SBH should be so difficult for some to accept is strange. That is, with the best understanding under the right conditions, one can build with these boards and spacers without any extra vertical ribs if they are not needed for other reasons. And completely without problems or increased risks.
 
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